AK-Z

coulda done without the flares IMO. The rear is already wide body'd anyways.

If you're lucky, its body filler flexing from previous body work. Tey tapping it to hear is its different from the high and low spots to see if it is. If you are willing to then sand the high spot getting just past the primer to see if it is filler.

also look at the metal working section of home depot or lowes. They have sheets for home radiator covers.I think having it mounted in a frame is better, though suggest using narrower pieces and having it line up right with the hood and bumper

Did you get the mesh from home depot (gutter cleaner mesh)? lol, I bought some to do the same thing, same problem I came across, doesn't quite fit. you go to the vent section of home depot, you can find bigger pieces that you can cut to fit better.

I believe the glass itself is the same, but I think the regulator plate (plate that ataches to the glass) are different. the stainless frames I know are different. I have a spare driver side glass if you are interested.

Super charging is a little bit different than turbo charging since the with a SC the amount of boost is dictated by the amount of load (RPM) the engine is under. A SC system behaves more like a NA system, as in its more of a linear boost gain than, more of the on off (on boost, then shifting) of a turbo system. Fuel maps are more like a NA map also, than one for a turbo system. And honestly the 7 psi of boost isn't enough to have to retard timing. With a SC system you can just put in bigger injectors (with vac advance disabled) and put on a smaller pulley. You are also forgetting spark dwell timing, which is mechanically dictated. If you advance the advance plate and adjust the dizzy housing to compinsate, it will shorten the amount of spark dwell, which is not good for idle. I have 2 L28 engines and have one of the dizzies in front of me. So Bernardd how do think I should accomplish retarding timing.

Over estimated my knowledge? Don't you mean under estimated? If you advance timing under boost, that will cause the spark event to happen too early in the stroke cycle causing the engine to knock. On NA motors it is advanced because it gives the air/fuel adequit time to burn. on turbo motors timing has to be retarded because since more air and fuel are being forced into the cylindars, that causes the air/fuel to be hotter than a NA motor, which make the burn to be much quicker. thats why when you put too much boost is tends to predetinate (knocking), which would mean you wouldneed more fuel to displace some of the air entering the cylindars. Now, no has mentioned how they managed to SSS or cartech (carbed turbo) system to work in context to the dizzy.

you obviously didn't read my last post. GOAL is ot retard timing, not advance. For turbo application. And you didn't read zfury's post either. vacuum retard can be achived by routingthe plumbing to the intake side of the turbo. Getting the dizzy to retard timing some how is the problem.

Uh, you guys are making it more complicated than it may seem. Yes I've thought about vacuum retard. Goal: retard timing under load (vacuum or boost, depending on how its plumbed and what optin is used) Possible solutions: 1. dismantle vacuum actuator and some how reverse internal components to convert to a boost actuator. The load adjustment plate has some play to move counter clockwise (retard) 2. Some how make a plate that move the mount location of the actuator arm to the other side of the dizzy to retard under vacuum. 3. Find a boost actuator that will fit. How did the SSS/cartech system deal with this? Don't need any one to explain pumbing to me since that seems obvious. Any other options?

Just wait for racerx to reply. I second the epoxy primer, though. then later on use build up sander/filler primer, sand, then paint.

O2 sensor. Don't think the 280z and z31 used the same sensor.

well the RB25 tranny is the same as the KA24DE (dohc 240sx) tranny (from what I read on ka-t.org) and its already established that the KA tranny will work on a L28 with only a slight mod to the bell housing and minor ajdustments, so I'm also sure it will work. Not sure about the RB26 though

its the rake. looks awsome.

After giving it a good long look, I don't like it as mouch. Reason being, the front half looks too stretched and the rear looks the same. if they shorten up the front in porportion to the stock dimension I think it would be killer. But thats just my opinion. Still wouldn't mind having that, but I wouldn"t mind having a lot of things.

How hard would it be to convert a vacuum actuator on the dizzy to a boost actuator? Or convert the vacuum actuator to retard timing? This being on a NA l28 being converted to a turbo, with the intention to have less electronics.

Much better. try butt jointing. you want to set the plates so the one end is wider than the other to comp for thermal expansion. one end should be a filler rod width apart and the onther end, 2 filler rod part (foot long piece). Then start at the narrower end.

Oh, for some reason I thought was mig welding. faster pace, less heat. Running a second pass is fine IMO.

Ooooo. Never seen that before. I Likey. Don't like the front wing though, but functionality, so its ok.

Yup. Smart. I would think 8 full and 2 free is a good deal. Was it whole sale or retail price he wanted a discount on, if you deal that way? forgot that showcars orders most of there parts.

I never said that I didn't want one but the atom is more obtainable. The tesla, last I heard on the news when the premiered it at pebble beach, was said to have a projected price of $100-150K. Don't know if thats true or not, but most likely the atom would be cheaper. Plus all the electrical problems (if you do have one) would be a pain. EDIT: ^ so its 80K, still to high.

Nope. MPH 2.9 for the supercharged version. TopGear only tested that version. base model still gets to 60 in 3.5. and top gear always quote 0-60 in MPH inless other wise stated. refference here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ariel_Atom

be sure to ask for tracking. You never know, might use the "Lost in mail" excuse. And honestly how long does it really take to have a FG piece to be finished. Would assume about a day (with curing time, without a finished surface). Doesn't take that much time once you have the molds. Heck I help fabbed up almost the whole rear half of a FG boat to convert it from inboard motor to outboard in about 2 days. Its probably going to be another month before you get your kit (shipping), if they do send it..

Completely out of the question in reguards to smog in cali. To get a RB to be legally smog legal, the engine would have to be shipped to texas to the fed smog facility, where it is modded to be converted to legal standards, then shipped back. I asked a IM ref and read some regulations and legal ways around it. Depending where you live, there are easy ways around it. You know most RVs aren't street legal and require a special type of tags. Same process here. Up here its a red tag, which means basically summer time use only. So no smog testing, was told that only needs a dyno run, wasn't told why though.