spotfitz

I am actually in the process of this right now. After alot of research I had found there are several choices for sound and heat barriers. The price of some are outrageous. They ranged from $1-$10+ per sq.ft. Yes, some of the higher priced ones do better then some of the cheaper ones, but not enough to justify the cost. I used a product that was only about $1 sq.ft. that I need to use spray adhesive with, but the product was almost as good as the high dollar stuff for 1/5th the cost even after the $13 cans of adhesive. It looks just like what Tim used on his Z. Tim, how much was yours per ft.? My back half is done now and I'm now stripping the tar from hell off the trans. tunnel. I will then strip the paint and por-15 the floor boards, tunnel and put the same material on them. The stuff is easy to work with and form to compound curves. Aluminum taping all the seams was recommended, but if the seams are tight I don't feel there is a need for it, except possibly for radiant heat. On the tunnel and parts of the floor board around the exhaust area I will be taping. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7958

Mike, Glad to hear you finally got all the bugs worked out. Try to avoid those off road adventures when you get back on the track. Grumpy, I always knew you had good taste. Where did you ever find a pic of my ex-girlfriend! pic 64, vette(144) lol

My '77 280Z does it and as far as I can tell it's all stock, except for the locking gas cap I put on shortly after getting it. My '00 Blazer did it and my '97 Silverado did it. I thought that because it is not open to atmosphere that as the gas is used that there is a slight vacuum created.

Penetrating oil is your best friend when pulling these old Z cars apart.(PB Blaster works great) 4 hours with a diamond tipped barb bit taking the "easy out"(what irony) and the original stud out was not the way I wanted to spend an afternoon when I just wanted to replace the leaking intake/exhaust gasket. I threw the whole "easy out" package away after that nightmare. My point: Even after breaking the "easy out" off in the stud, inside the cylinder head I was able to remove that mess and retap the threads and put another stud in the same hole. Why risk the chance of making it so much harder by using the "easy out" rather then just drilling it out to begin with. You have to drill a hole in the stud/bolt to use the "easy out" anyways. Get you some GOOD drill bits in sizes ranging from smallest you can find to the width of the "land" on the bolt you are trying to take out, or larger set for future use. Get you some punches to set your starting point for drilling dead center. You can re-punch if not dead center. Take it slow and straight with the drill bits and tap slowly afterwards using either a penitrating oil or carb cleaner or even compressed air to clear the threads occasionally. What ever you do, don't use a cheap tap. You'll be in worse shape then breaking the easy out off in the hole if you break the tap off in the hole. Edit: I just remembered a story a friend of mine told me. He broke a stud, used easy out and broke it then drilled it all out and broke the tap off in the hole. He then tried another easy out and broke it off in the hole in the tap. He ended up taking the head to a machine shop and they got a big kick out of it.

That is So true!

According to the auction $168 shipped ($129 + $39 shipping) = (1) 4 box unit. Assuming you paid $84 + CA tax for both boxes (Hell even one box), you made out!

That is one heck of a deal! And take a look at what they go for on Ebay. Can you say Mark-Up. http://cgi.ebay.com/FASTENERS-NUTS-BOLT-RESTORATION-HARDWARE-SNAP-ON-TOOLS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ66909QQitemZ7542321715QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I would be interested in the shorter SS valves aswell.

Even though I have heard some great wisdom with this post, I have yet to hear something. What is it you want from your life. Yes, being in a good relationship is something we all strieve to do. Having the car you've always wanted is another. Life is all about compromise(relationships even more so). Spending your hard earned money on a car to find out later you have to spend more money on it to fix what you thought wasn't a problem can lead to destruction of a relationship later(go ahead, ask me how I know). If the car isn't worth saving then cut your losses early. Take what parts you've put into it getting it to where it is and dump the shell if thats what you need to do. Get another one in the near future. Yes, they are getting harder to find, but with some savings later you can get a better platform to start with and be closer to your goal. We have all heard it before. Start with the best frame we can for the money we can afford. If your better half doesn't understand what the car means to you, apparently she doesn't realize what makes you happy. It's all about compromise. Let her know how you feel and see what she says. If she is unwilling to compromise then what else in your relationship will she be unwilling to do so. Make her happy, but don't forget about yourself!

Check the descriptions in the pics. I should be posting them in order/direction from fire wall to the front and back to the fire wall(clockwise). http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3599&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3600&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3601&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3602&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3603&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3604&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3605&cat=500&page=1 These are high res. pics and atleast one you may have to play with the lighting with your favorite pic program, but it should give you an idea. It was getting dark by the time I got home this evening. I will need to drop these pics in the near future and can email them to anyone that needs them once I pull them from the site(for future searches). Just email me! This is all from my early '77 which should be the same as atleast the '78 and possibly the '75-'76(I'm not positive, but pretty sure). The compressor bracket that I have a pic of(as described) comes from an '81 with crank mounted CAS. All the other brackets I have seen, excluding dealer installs, but including my factory installed early '74 looks very similiar to this one. They all bolt up the same way to the block. Compressors mount up the same way as due the condensors on the late Z models. The driers I've seen changed on the ZX models, but not by much. I have one for pics aswell, if needed. If you have anymore questions about the routing, just ask. If you need more pics of a specific spot I'll do my best to get them. I do have a rebuilt block on a stand if you need me to mock up something for a better view. I probably have two complete a/c systems in the garage using various parts from different makes. I have been purchasing new parts for my early '74 for some time now and have done alot of research on this subject. I recently took a '96 altima blower fan and mounted it in the fan housing of my '74. It seemed to be about the same difficulty as Pete's LTD fan mod. I'll be using resistors and relays for this setup. I will be posting my results once I get the whole dash back together for testing of the force the fan puts out. Here in Texas we all know how we have to have a/c in the summer time, especially so with black interior. Again, if you need anything else......

They are the ones you need. The urethane ones don't have the triangle shape to them. The original rubber ones have the triangle shape. Top one pointing down and bottom one pointing up.

I can get you pics of the hose and an exact length from fitting to fitting if you like(of the new and/or old one). The new one is still sitting on the work bench waiting for me to put it on. It was right at a foot long, but the way the hose hooks up it doesn't have to be exact. They can actually crimp one side of the hose and hook it up. Route to the other fitting, cut to length and crimp it on the car with the crimping tool they used for my hose. Let me know if you need anything.

Funny thing you mention this. I tried charging my system about 2 months ago and blew the high side line. I just had a high side line made for my '77 yesterday. I had it done at an a/c parts house. Look for one in the phone book. Cost: $15+tax and they cut it to length and crimped it right in front of me. If it will help, what they told me was, it is standard #8 line and the ends are just simple crimp on 90*. The fitting going to the condenser is actually about a 100*, but will easily fit. Just take the hose down with you since the fittings sit at a 90* angle to each other and the bend in the line is hard to measure. Hope it helps

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/throttle_bodies/Throttle%20bodies_side_mount.htm

All is not lost. http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/

That is one sweet job, garage or not. Wish mine turned out half as good(after paying a body shop to do it). Excellent color choice BTW!

Yes, there is a backing plate that the bolts go through on the wheel side. Mine are about 1/4" thick if I remember correctly.

You need to register your email with the site to view other peoples pics.

Auto parts store should have a listing for the belt in a Z/ZX without a/c.