boodlefoof

Haven't weighed my Z yet, but my '68 Camaro comes out to about 3050 pounds.

Check your auto trans fluid level. If it is low, you will experience the trans slipping when you hit the gas (not moving)... the engine will rev and then the trans may suddenly engage, causing the rear tires to break loose.

For bodywork you probably want to have: (1) a welder that uses shielding gas (a MIG) as opposed to a wire welder that simply uses flux-cored wire; and (2) infinite voltage and wire speed control. For doing stuff like frame rails, you want to have a welder with enough amperage to adequately penetrate the heavier guage steel. If you're doing heavy enough welding work this means getting a 230v machine.

I'll be doing gull wing doors on my Z, with the gull wing scallopped into the roof (that's the current plan anyway). Not because I want to... but because I'll have to in order to get in and out of the thing! Between the lowered roof and the door bars of the spaceframe, there isn't much room to get in and out! As for suicide doors, I would like them on an old Mercury Lead Sled, but I'm not sure about a Z.

I'm 25 and my wife and I will hit 8 years next month. A little less than 7 of those years were dating (since high school), then we took the plunge and got married in '05. She is my best friend too. What more could I ask for?

Kind of goofy with the reversed pro-street scoop on the back... Is it a Chevcedes?

Here is one for $150 from a circle track place. http://www.lefthanderchassis.com/65.html

Hmmm... Casper there would be a pretty friendly ghost if you follow the visual instructions on how to wear the costume (i.e., with nothing underneath of what is basically a short apron).

Bummer Michael! If I lost my car to a deer, I would at least want a trophy too!

In my opinion, no car is beyond saving. It just requires more time! That said, the pics you posted look pretty good!

I must have misunderstood. I thought the problem was the turbos hitting the strut towers. I didn't read the entire thread but assumed that a twin turbo V8 meant the rest of the car would be equally upgraded from factory.

If this gives you any ideas, you can take a look at the custom center guage cluster I made out of sheetmetal for my '68 Camaro. http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/newinterior20.html

You're going wild with it already... might as well cut out the strut towers and just modify the front suspension!

I wish I could afford a Quaife sequential! That would be sweet.

Stony, I think everyone's concern is that the tube chassis suddenly seems to end at the firewall. It is hard to see in the pics, but there appear to only be two lower frame rails, and a lower engine crossmember (and perhaps a strut bar). With all of the attention given to the rest of the car, I would expect to see some (any) additional triangulation of the front suspension pickups.

Even if it is only 2000 pounds, with stickies like that it is going to be seeing some high loads on the front snout of that frame.

Mike, there is just one MC for the front and one for the rear. The third one is for the clutch. As mentioned above, I've never seen a vacuum booster with a dual MC setup. I personally think the dual MC setup gives you better pedal feel and makes it easier to modulate your braking effort. Also don't have to worry about vacuum issues with radical camshafts. Of course, if you want total eye-popping braking... I believe CNC brakes sells a dual MC kit with a hydroboost setup. I personally have to reverse mount the MCs due to my frame design. Either that or scoot the pedal assembly off to one side or another... which I would rather not do. As for adjusting brake bias, I have seen a couple of guys with GT-40 kit cars that have set up a tunable adjustment dial on the center console. I think that reaching down there while moving might be a bad idea.

I plan on going with a reverse-mount, hanging pedal setup from Coleman Racing. With clutch pedal and three aluminum Tilton MCs, price comes out to about $330. http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29_532 If you just want a brake pedal with dual MCs, price is around $230. http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29_534 They sell floor and firewall mount setups too (with MCs in the engine bay). I think that by pedal-ratio he actually means the lever arm ratio of the pedal in relationship to the pickup point of the MC pushrod. I'm planning on using around a 6.25:1 ratio.

Something that won't take you out of your powerband by the time you cross the 1320 foot mark!

With my project, I decided that for any tubing which will have suspension pickups attached to it I would go with .095'' at a minimum. Depending upon the amount of triangulation in your frame design and your method for attaching any pickups, you may want to run thicker wall tubing. If you're talking about rockers, .083 should be fine but you might want to go with .120 just to avoid the possibility of any distortion when putting a jack under there. If you're going to have that absurd amount of power, adding 15 pounds to the car by going with .120 as opposed to .083 will certainly make no difference.

The heat might be a problem depending on what kind of resin you're using and how close to the turbo you're putting it.

Don't know about a rotary conversion, but I've been considering using a Honda as a donor car to make a little pocket-rocket... Basically, take the engine and move it to the rear, make a custom body/frame/suspension, limit weight to around 1200 pounds and have fun. But wait... I really need to finish my Z project first!

Looks like the ugly bastard child of a Ford Focus and a Smart car to me.

Very cool Cyrus. Why the redundant tach though?