alexideways

Well, first I would try the AE-111's 20v black top 4AGE with a 7AFE block and the 6 speed tranny, but if you're really set on an SR, take a look at B12 Sentra SE-Rs or Pulsars Sunny Gti-r as they already have the SR in a FWD layout. While you're at it, take the Sunny's 4WD drivetrain and go really wild on the Rolla. For the rest, I think you're pretty much in a world of your own as this is uncharted territory

Take a look at P-touch machines, (small keyboard that prints on small ribbons) they have all kind of neat materials you can print on, metalic, transparent... Very nice, if you buy good quality ribbon, it'll stick for ever. That's what I used to label my RB harness.

You just have to pull a bit harder, it does come off, but it's surprising how much force is needed to pull it off. I did it on my S13's HUD cluster. At the moment, I still have the KA24E in it, so I needed to use my Rev. meter. The thing is that the needle in my original cluster is longer and wouldn't clear the surounding trim of the HUD cluster, so I had to swap needles and now it works fine.

You'll probably end up with your car covered in publicity logos of all kinds.

Still, it's...,for the lack of a better word, AWESOME!!!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Pics. please.

I'll take a look with the guys I know, but we're in Canada though.

Province of Québec, Canada.

Did you go through the BEDDING procedure properly??? As contrary to most people's beliefs, when we say WARPED discs, it doesn't really mean that the discs are crooked, what happens is that the discs builds some hot spots and these spots wear down faster than the cooler spots and thus makes the pedal pulse, since the discs get thinner on those spots. If you went trough the bedding procedure properly, you SHOULD have pad material that stays on the disc, it's called the transfer layer. Brakes work in two ways, the most obvious and what most people think of when they think about how brakes work, is called ABRASIVE friction which is, as the name implies, produced by the pad material dragging on the disc's surface, this happens only before the brakes get to temperature. The second way they work (if the bedding procedure has been followed cautiously) is called ADHESIVE friction, this happens when the brakes get hot enough. The disc spins, the pads make contact, heat builds up, the pad material starts to melt and STICKS to the TRANSFER LAYER and, as the discs continues to spin, it breaks the bond, stick, break, stick, break... which slows the car down. If, while you're bedding the brakes, you happen to stop the car completely while the brakes are boiling hot, the pad will stick to the disc and leave a thick spot of material, which will make the brakes feel like you have warped discs every time the "thick" spot goes between the discs and pads. If you have racing compound and you didn't bed the pads properly, first, before the brakes get hot enough to work under adhesive friction, they are so abrasive, that they'll just heat away at your discs and once they get hot enough, the abrasion will only get worst on those hot spots and the pads will also leave material only on the hottest spots, which will result in an undriveable car. At the end of a race season, if you bedded your pads properly, it's not rare to see discs that are thicker than they were when new, due to all the material transfer. This is also the reason why racing pads are no good on the street, cause they never get hot enough to work under the adhesive friction mode and they just grind away at your discs without offering the braking performance you were expecting. This is also the reason why sports cars usually have rear drums for e-brakes, cause if you park a car with hot brakes and then set the e-brake, well you just glued your pads to the discs. Hope it helped.

Wow guys, thanks a lot for all of this, my search for used gauges has just ended...

Thanks for that...

Stay away. Once you bought all what's needed to have it running (stock) it'll have cost you more than a complete RB25DET + the tranny on the RB20 is ridiculously fragile compared to the RB25. Plus, as others have already said, YOUR engine would suck that puny RB20 trough it's big Holset and spit it out the tailpipe without missing a beat. LOL.

I didn't weld my chassis with stick, but this is what we used to use to do field repairs when I was a welder, it was the easiest way to weld dirty and painted equipment. For bodywork, try to find 3/32 or even better, 1/16 rods, don't lay long beads, move around and you should have no problems with burn trough. + if you already have the stick function on your tig, it would be the cheapest and most efficient solution.

I would have put fireworks for sure, if I could have found some in the smiley list we have.

Saw Darius's V8Z racing a bike on the net and remembered that the 240Z was my childhood dream car. I decided I wanted a Z, a V8 one. Started to look for info and by accident, I used the key words "v8, hybrid,z" It bring me here. Joined, read a lot, discovered that I can put a skyline engine in there. Here I am today with an L24, an RB25T, complete bodywork, interior and harnesses, in my apartment, the shell in a friend's garage, 45 min. away (when there's no traffic) from home. LONG LIVE HYBRIDZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You are a very courageous man... nice work, keep it up.

10,000 times better than sand. Soda-blasting requires absolutely no cleaning before blasting, you can go right over grease, oil, and other contaminants. There is no danger of overheating the substrat, woodworkers even use it to stip paint off of wood. As an added bonus side effect, if you leave the soda dust on your metal surface, since it's a base, it will neutralize the effect of oxidation which is acid... Another good thing about it is that you can just wash it away with tap water and it'll dissolve and isn't harmful to the environment. You also don't need to much protective gear as this stuff isn't bad for your health. In fact, your own body produces sodium bicarbonate. http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html

I think I read a thread, on this very site, a few years back about someone putting Porsche axles in his Z... Do a quick search for "Porsche axles"...

Not yet, but I wired the diagnostic plug in my harness in prevision for it...

How much oil is there passed the mark??? Maybe your crank is swimming in there.

In what condition is the car, is it rusted in the firewall area? One thing I noted, in your description of the problem was that it happened after you hit the brakes. I ask, cause a few years back I was driving a friend's old Civic and had to hit the brakes pretty hard after a moron pulled out of his driveway without looking, everything seemed normal after I stopped, but when I let go of the brakes, the car stalled, I started it again and it would run pretty crummy and die. I opened the hood, only to discover that I had hit the brakes so hard that I actually punched a hole in the booster, the car would ingest a lot of unmetered air and it would just die. What I did to get the car home was that I took a pen that was in the car and I stuck it in the booster's hose. I had to drive with no booster, but at least it ran fine. Maybe you should take a look at your booster to see if it's not rusted and cracked after you braked. I know it's far fetched, but at least it's a start.

If by that you mean, what from the consult goes in Chk, I'll have to say "I don't know", cause I've never seen a consult in real. If what you say is that the consult wire has only 5 wires, then probably that Chk, means check and is probably used to jump with the Pwr to extract the codes manually trough the Check engine light.

These are the best I have for now...