alexideways

I hate limos, I hate trucks (which arent for working or off-road purposes) and even more limo. trucks but, I have to admit that you've done some great work on that thing. It's one of the only limo. truck that I've seen that doesn't have a banana shape towards the ground.

I just wish I could have one but, here in the province of Quebec, we don't have vanity plates...

It`s not mine, I just took an image from somewhere on this site...

WOW, I really feel stupid now... It's the first time I realise WHY some Zs look different from others. NOW I KNOW. The weird thing is that I have a completely stock bodied car except for the fact that it was originally white and it's now the stock burgundy red but, that line does not really show that much on my car. Thanks for letting me notice, I really like it better with the line and I'll make sure it stays there and that it's perfectly even.

I want to do the same thing. I think that going with synthetic (alcantara) would be a lot easier, as leather (suede) needs to be wet, formed and heat dried if you want it to conform and stretch around a contour. I just need to find a place where they sell alcantara in my region and some books or someone who'll show me how it's supposed to be done. I'd also ike to do the contour of my door panels with the same stuff and the flat center part, done in brushed aluminum or carbon fiber. Head liner would be alcantara too.

That's going to make a nasty and fast little truck...

RB26DETT = DOHC twin turbo VG30ET = SOHC single turbo + since the VG30ET came out, there was a lot of advance in internal turbine aerodynamics. RB = newer = more efficient. Compare it to a VG30DETT and you're already way closer...

You could get the trim powdercoated black, it would give a more finished look cause, without the trim, once you get within 10 feet from the car, it kinda looks funny with the recess in the rubbers with 2 lips protruding on each sides. But, as stated by metallicar, I removed them because they were starting to rust and had no problems. that god damned windshield is so hard to remove without cutting the rubber (read: I broke mine trying to remove it) I don't think it'll just pop out by itself. Just my $0.02

If you like torque, go with the RB25, the SR20 can make lots of power but, it'll never reach the RB in the torque deportment. + 2L. for 2L., the RB might be heavier but, for half the price, I could certainly live with it.

You can get an RB20DET for anywhere around $750 compared to 2 to 3 grands for an SR20, SR20s are more expensive than RB25s nowadays.

Yeah but, most of the people (me included, before I had this discussion with veteran members) think that BIGGER IS ALWAYS BETTER. The engine will run but, it can't use all of the air that massive plate can allow in there. 90mm is overkill even for a small block... Lets say that for 50% plate opening on my stock 75mm throttle I'm at 50% of what the engine can use, with the 90mm plate you'll be at 80 or so % of the engine's capacity thus, anything above half throttle will be useless. Plus, as soon as you crack that plate open, you already have way more air going in than the stock one, that's why I say your throttle will become like a switch. For a drag car, it might be nice but, for a street driven car, you'll leave every stop light burning the rubbers or coughing. Anyways, like I said, if you're looking for a Q45 MAF, let me know I have one for sale.

I would personally go with a smaller throttle body. The reason being that with that big of a throttle plate, it's going to be almost on/off situation as, as soon as you open the plate, you already have a huge amount of air going in and then, from half throttle to wide open there wont be much of a difference as your engine is already gulping all the air it need and can't use more than a certain amount. It's going to be a pain on the street IMHO. Just my $0,02. If you do decide to keep the big throttle and need a MAF to go with it, let me know, I have one as I was going that route too but, after discussing the subject with other members here on HZ, I changed my mind. I'm from Montéal so, shipping won't be much.

:puke:Somebody needs to bring it home and save it from it's misery. If you look closely at the rear right bottom corner of the hatch, I wonder how much rust is hiding beneath all that fancy fiberglass work...

Ah ha!!!! there it is... http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=164663&highlight=VH45+240sx

I don't remember on which website but, I've seen an other V8 240sx but, the engine was the Nissan VH45. Or does it make it a 450SX??? The guy reported that it fits better in the bay than a VG or VQ... If I can find it, I'll post it here if you don't mind.

From what I've read, there is different sized soda crystals you can buy depending on the job you're trying to do and the base material you're trying to clean. I saw a video of one guy who stripped a whole muscle car in about half a day. I didn't read much on WET soda blasting but, from what I've seen and read, with the wright sized media, DRY soda blasting is quicker than sand and doesn't built much heat in the panels... The best feature is the lack of need for personal protective equipment and the fact that it just dissolves in water once you're done. You could probably wash the shell with solvent instead of water to prevent flash rust...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yup... Can't believe I sold the one I had found but, it was such a good offer, I couldn't refuse. Like 3 times what I paid for it. I still hate myself for doing so though. I'll probably never find another one as clean as that one. I bought the Z shortly after though so, it's not that bad after all...

IIRC, I read somewhere (probably here on HZ) that if you use the stock 200ZR engine mounts, the 200ZR shaft will just slip right in. Run a search for that as I'm not 100% positive on that, it might also be the front portion of the Skyline shaft but, I'm pretty sure there is one that's bolt in with the 200ZR mounts. I'm also in the process of shoehorning an RB25DET in my 73. Good luck & welcome to HZ, you've found the best place for your endeavor.

From what I can see on pics, (never seen a rb30 head in real life, just the blocks) with the boxy valve cover and the intake over it, it might not clear but then again, my RB25 with the over the head intake does fit. Why not take the flange of your intake and build one yourself for the time being???

Well, the 30+ y/o wet noodle chassis would probably just fold in two at launch...

IIRC, from what I heard from my parents when I was a kid, it was supposed to land with the said chute but, what the hell was he thinking about??? A Lincoln!!!!!! $1 000 000.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!! jeez what an idiot... It's nice to see it on video though, I had only heard of it and taught it was knievel who had done it...

OK, I posted these pics without noticing that the 510 you were looking at was the later version. I then deleted my post for being so stupid but, I still felt these pics were worth seeing for everyone. Sorry for not being cautious of what I post, I didn't meant to give misleading info... So, the "pics above" that BRAAP mentioned in his post aren't out of his imagination, I just deleted and reposted.

Then, you can be really nice to her, start hanging out, have her put you on her will and wait...

I was not saying buy the soda blasting rig, what I meant was MAYBE he could use soda as a media in his wet blasting attachement for his press. washer??? Think it would work???