zgeezer

I have both the KWICK brackets for Lm7 a/c and mount for alternator. They do not fit the engine compartment: they both hit the strut towers. I will relocate the alternator by using an ls1 bracket and the LM7 alternator. The bracket will be spaced out .75 inch or so to match the truck crank and water pullys. Need to drill and tap the truck block. to use the ls1 alternator mount. There are several posts on Ls1tech.com regarding this small modification. g

Has anyone used the JCI air conditioning kit on a truck engine using the LM7 crank pully. I have a ls1 alternator mount that I have mounted on the truck block. it lines up with the truck crank pully. The block was drilled and tapped and the ls1 alternator bracket is spaced out 3/4 of an inch. It appears to line up well with the truck water pump. The question now is: can I use the JCI a/c mounting bracket? G

No, I think you have it backwards. All other things being equal, you will not generate the same HP at 5,000 feet as you do at sea level or lower. Any pilot will tell you that taking off at 5,000 feet is not the same experience as at sea level. Cooler is generally better than hotter and a little fog helps too. "Back in the Day" when we were running 1/4 mile drag races in at the Carson City, NV airport (right at 5,000 feet above sea level) a '57 tripower Pontiac would turn trap speeds in the high 80s. The same car at Half Moon Bay or Lodi, was always turning in the low 90's. About 5 mph faster in the 1/4 mile. It was a real treat for us to convoy down to Half Moon Bay because we could feel the difference in horsepower as we dropped altitude. Generally night drags under the lights produced faster times all the way around than in the heat of the day. G

I lived on Kentucky Street in Vacaville for many years. Grown a lot, no longer a little ol agricultural town... got to slip over to Winters for that. At one time Vacaville's main claims to fame were the prison; the Nut Tree Airport... learned to fly there..; and a commercial food dryer. You could smell onions are garlic at 15,000 feet over Vacaville. Are you on the South or North side of the Interstate? g

I've got one in a early '71, should fit. You buy it , take it out, and pack it for the trip home. $75.00. I'm in Indio, CA. g

That is a circa 1957 or later Volvo station wagon: the sedans were 544 or 444 ( If I recall correctly. The B10 is the engine designation.) The sedans look like a clean 3/5 scale 48 or so Ford. These are the cars that made Volvo's reputation for tough reliable common sense vehicles. I owned two of them and beat the crap out of them and never failed to get 35 mpg. About 110 mph top and something like 73 mph in 1/4 mile at 5,000 feet back in the day. A clean 544 with a 80's or so Turbo 4 with a 4 speed and overdrive would be a real howl to own. They handle well. G:D Actually I drove one from Tonopah NV to Beatty NV at about 35 mph in either first or second gear all the way; I was not in any shape to shift..... probably got 35 mpg at the same time too. Tough car; great little car. g

My 71 Series I 240z was originally equipted with a ARA dealer installed air conditioning... york compressor and small condenser. I have a number of the ARA units from other 240z(s). They all use small (inadequate) hosed condensers up front, a York style compresser, and a "suck" evaporator. The control units are all small glue/screw on plastic housings with two dial switches for fan speed and temperature. These have been attached around the heater/fan. I've found an early thin bumper 260z that has the 240z front end "look". It has air conditioning, but it is not the 280x style that mounts under the dash on top of the tunnel; this one is the ARA style, but all the plastic housing material is of better quality (The early ARA units were "pop riveted" together), a York compressor, a large full size (same as 280z) condenser that uses hose ends. The hoses run through the firewall at exactly the same place as my 240 and continues to the evaporator. The air conditioning controls are integral to the dash heating/air conditioning controls. The dash looks to be identical to the 280Z(s). Is this a factory air conditioning unit or another version of ARA's dealer installed models? This installation really looks "factory". My question is how much of the early 260Z is interchangeable with my 71 Series I? Most of the interior plastic panels look as if they would fit. The gas tank filler hose is a 99% fit as that is what I am now using. The back panel under the deck lid is a perfect, but not era correct, fit. I know that a 280Z dash can be made to fit, but is the early 260Z dash mounts the same as the 240 or 280, or something entirely different? Sorry for the long post. The real immediate question is whether I can easily use the 260z dash, with the integrated heat/ac controls, in my early 240. I'm 99% certain that the ac evaporater and condenser can be easily adapted. G

Ok, use the search button and you'll find lots of information. Several of the Chevy performance sites extoll the benefit of the 700r4 as being the lower first gear, allowing you to run tall gear in back without losing torque multiplication "out of the hole". and to run 1800 rpm @ 60mph or better once you are into the OD and converter lockup. A great combination/compromise. I'll be running a LM7 with cam, the newer electronic version of the 700r4, with an R200 3.36 with 300ZXT cls with 300zxt CV universal. I'm shooting for something around 1800 @65 in cruise. It is all a matter of how you plan to use the Z. Mine will be a DD with lots of long trips expected. G

My Z is a 71 Series I. I replaced the front clip with a 72 or 73. The bumper mounts are now rather heavy pieces that bolt to the "frame rails" and have the large "tube" that fits into the front bumper. I do not have any front bumpers. I have an opportunity to purchase a set of 260Z thin front and rear bumpers that are in excellent shape, but still mounted on the vehicle. My 72-73 bumper mounts appear to push the front bumpers forward about 2 inches over the original early 71 "body" mounts. I can live with this if the 260 bumpers can be bolted on the to the mounts; so my question is: "Will the front thin bumpers from a 260 bolt onto the 72-73 240 bumper mounts without cutting or drilling? Thanks, G

I've done both the Maxima and MM. Both are bolt on and will do the job. The cheapest was the complete Maxima setup : brackets, rotors, calipers [later went to the 240zx calipers for parking brake alignment] and dust shields. One big advantage with the Maxima is that you can bolt up just about any 14 inch wheel. MM will have clearance problems with most Datsun 14 inch alloys, depending upon your offset. Hard to find. G

Interesting thread.... .., but let me add four comments: About all you need to know about bad management is in "Dilbert". About all you need to know about non-involved employees is in "Dilbert". If anyone reading this blurb would like to move a step beyond belly aching and generalized bitching, take at look at this diagnostic tool to evaluate whether or not your boss is a psychopath. Read the entire article, before you take the test. Works for ex's and politicians as well. After two years of listening to AM radio rants, I convinced myself that THEY would invade my quiet little valley at the next 7.0 earthquake and I'd better be prepared. Hit a gunshop in San Berdoo and purchased two unused boxed and "cosmolined" Norinco SKSs, 4 wooden cases of Russian [i think.... wax paper wrapped, "green" rounds, 4,000 rounds to the case], and one California Highway Patrol decommissioned parkerized Remington 12 gauge. Pump with a very very short barrel and about 400 rounds of various 12 gauge loads: from bird shot up to rifled ball [actually wrapped in a plastic sorbet] I was ready for anything that might find it's way over the pass into my little patch of desert. About 400 rounds into one of the SKS I tore it down, cleaned it up, reassembled it and headed back out to the desert to play with a new plastic folding stock and a "large... very large capacity magazine in place... about 40+ rounds. Loaded that magazine with some loose rounds out of pocket and pulled down on that big abandoned burned and, probably, stolen car body..............it ran off three rounds as in "automatic fire". WOW, I got a select fire SKS.... now where in hell is the select lever. Not there. Ejected one live round and when the bolt returned it double fired. I got religion real quick. I traded both SkS and ammo to a gun shop in Nevada for High Standard Military with 6 inch barrel. I was told that "slam firing" was a common experience if some bozo didn't assemble the mechanism correctly. Something about a firing pin that fit only in "one" direction. Have any of you had such a experience with SkS. The gauge is still with me and I love it. G

That is a hood cable. The "T" handle should have a icon of an open hood engraved on it. G After looking at my s30, it is NOT an s30 hoof cable... sorry. g

Ok here's what the collector looks like: stainless steel and 3 inches wide.

Sorry about the multiple photos, I'm still trying to sort out the new program. g

Well, I spent the afternoon rubbing up against a Ls7 out of the car and on the garage floor. Neat engine: 427cu and 505hp out of the box and many think that GM is lying in it's teeth and understating the actual HP of this engine. The manifolds are hydroformed stainless steel, center dump, but the collector is flat. These might be usable in any swap using Corvette motor mount stands and a cross member. These will not work for those of us that are using the JCI mounts because they are center dump. I had a set of new Ls3 exhaust manifolds for a visual side by side comparison. The Ls7 manifolds appear to fit much closer to the engine block and they are , in a word, flatter than the Ls3 exhausts. If I read my tape measure correct, I think the Ls7s are close to fitting about 3/8- 1/2 inch closer to the engine block than the Ls3. Unlike my Lm7 truck engine, these manifolds are "D" ports and huge at that. I mounted the steel gasket from the LS7 on my Lm7 to see if these headers would bolt on and, most important seal well. The flat floor of my oval Lm7 matched perfectly to the flat floor of the Ls7 gasket. So I can say with some confidence that the Ls7 exhaust manifolds will bolt onto and seal to a 2004 Lm7. By extension, I think the same would be true for all the ls1 engines. Sometime in the next week, I'll be mocking my Lm7 back into the engine compartment and I'll check clearances on the passenger side. These sell for around $375 to $500 on the various ebay sites and would certainly look good on an Ls1 in a Z.

OK, here's what I glean from this thread and my own knowledge that I can put to use for my AC conversion. 1. The 280 A/C condenser [Cu not Al] is a bolt in, is more than adequate, and can be rotated to match a compressor mounted on either side of the motor. 2. For the severely space challenged look at a Geo A/C compressor [Thanks a bunch for this tip] and 3 Consider installation of the evaporator behind the seats. I'm not a HVAC expert, but Cu not only conducts electricity better than Al, but it also transfers heat faster.. quite a bit faster. Al is lighter. G

I've installed an LM7 with a GM4L60E a/t and the JCI engine/transmission mounts in my Series 1 S30. Previously, the body was massaged as per the JTR manual for installation of a CSB (Gen III LT1). The driver's side tunnel was massaged with an air hammer to clear the AT shifting arm [i'm using the stock AT shifter with a rod to control the transmission shifts] About 2 hours work with air hammer and small propane torch. I have no problems at all with the AT dip stick. All of this is covered quite well in the JTR CSB swap manual. g

I wonder why you used the Mazda condenser, when the condenser from a 280 (and perhaps the 280zx) is a straight on bolt in. The high and low pressure lines line up with the compressor located on the driver's side and the unit bolts on to the front using the same bolts that mount the radiator. Unlike most add on a/c for the early s30s the 280 unit is full size. I have photos of the unit on my series 1: look at my album on this forum under zgeezer. I am looking forward to seeing how you mount the Vintage a/c. That is on my long list of things to do. By the way your work is nice. G

Replace the LM7's stock oil pressure gauge sender [top of engine just behind the intake manifold) with an early Z sender. There is a difference in size and threads between the Chevy block and the Datsun gauge.... but there are a number of adaptors out there (See summit and anyone that sells gauges for foreign cars) . I have the JCI mounts and it appears there is plenty of room between the firewall and sender for clearance. I think JKI mounted the sender off the Gen III pan because it was closer to the stock oil pressure wire from the Z. Not done yet, but I'm 95% certain it will work. G

I have the same headers installed with JCI mounts front and back. No interference with mounts: However, the headers would not clear JCI's oil pressure set up. ('70 Z with LM7)

I purchased my LS6 cam and springs from SuperCars in Texas. I don't know for a fact that my LS6 cam and springs came out of new 'vette that was driven from showroom to shop on the same day, but that's what I was told and that is what they looked like upon arrival. Ligenfelter also sells pull off parts on his web site. g

I purchased both their A/C mount and dedicated alternator mount. Both are well engineered pieces. The problem is that both interfere with the S30 inner fenders (Strut mounts). Even with the relocation forward, the alternator touches the side panel. This could be cured if one really wanted to "get ignorant" with a BFH on the alternator side. One half inch would cure the interference, but the A/C is a lost cause. Sooooo, unless one is a good fabricator (which I am not) the JCI mount appears to be the only show in town. G

If you are building a smog legal California car, you can't use the truck engine. Period. Not permitted: no truck engines in passenger cars. The referee will catch the iron block immediately; so you won't be able to disguise the truck origins unless you have an AL block. If you are using JCI's kit to install the GEN III, and expect to use his a/c kiet, you will have to convert the accessory drive to an LS1 configuration because the JCI A/C adapter does not appear compatible with the truck accessory drive. Just another expense and not an insubstantial one. On the other hand, 4.8 and 5.3 truck engines are really cheap, particularly the smaller 4.8. The money you save on the purchase price will free up funds to invest (throw at) other aspects of your project car. Again, depends upon your design parameters. What do you want? I started with the idea of building a quiet, good handling, stock appearing, classic that would run 105mph and low 13s in the 1/4. All my brother's computer programs said that could be accomplished with a 4.8, an ls6 cam, good tune, and long tube headers. At the end of the day: it is probably a price thing. How cheap can you get the truck engine. G

I sold this to a Ford fanatic out in Apple Valley; nice guy. Really into FE's. The vehicle was a "P" code; he took a number of small parts including the speedometer. My engine had a non cop long block. The exhaust manifolds, carb, distributor and alternator were all original. He was happy, I'm happy, and some FE parts of some value are being used and not on the scrap heap. Now, if I can only find someone interested in that Jensen GT dissolving away out in that yard's back yard..... waaay out back. Next to that Volvo 544 hulk. I'm in the wrong trade; next time around, I'll ask the Man upstairs to put me into the world's largest wrecking lot, as an owner of course. g