zgeezer

There is a long thread on this subject, along with pictures of actual swaps. Search on 5.3 truck and you will see. Here is a turbo charged 5.3 into a 240Z http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=58 g

Actually, I think someone on this forum has already done this swap. I remember that the truck manifold actually cleared the hood, but not by much. The truck intake, according to one published article, flows very well indeed up to 5500 rpm. There are differences in the location of the accessory drive and, for some reason, the truck drive is spaced forward one half inch or so. At least, the folks at Street and Performance told me this when I inquired about swapping the truck manifold for an LS1. G

Sure, google "street and performance". There are a number of these switches, usually attached to various aftermarket shifters. g

Apparently X15R is the GM code name. I know Street & Performance refers to the X15R in their catalogue.

Yep, just looked and spoke to an owner of a 2006 Vette with paddles built into the steering wheel. One side for UP and the other side for DOWN. They are buttons, rather than a stalk, mounted on the steering wheel. He liked it. The gear ratios are 4.027, 2.364, 1.532, 1.152, .852, & .667. Available as a 6L80E. There are other versions listed here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_6L80_transmission I'm waiting for the first one to appear in a Z. g

I didn't know about a cam journal change in 2003. Mine is a late 2002, so this is clearly something to consider. Thanks for the response. g

I need some advice regarding a cam swap. I have a 2002 LM7 truck engine with very low mileage. I also have a bare ls1 cam, with less than 20,000 mile on it, out of a 1998 Pontiac. The lm7 cam specifications from Lt1Tech is: .466 Intake lift and .457 Exhaust lift; Intake duration is 190 Exhaust and 191 Intake; the lobe separation is 114 and the timing is 112/116. The same ls1 cam is .500 lift for both Intake and Exhaust; Duration is 209 Exhaust and 198 Intake; lob separation is 119.5 and the timing is 117/122 My use will be as a daily driver. A decent idle is important. The only other modifications with be cold air intake, and Sanderson block hugger type headers. I'll be running the automatic trans that came with the engine. I think an L60E . Rear end is a 3:36 with CLSD. Car weight will probably be 2600#. My advice has run from don't spend any money on this... get a real cam, to Both are smog cams... get a real cam, to Keep the truck cam you'll need the torque when passing and it'll be a smoother ride and get better gas mileage with the truck cam. Ride in my Silverado and you'll see what I mean and, finally, Do it, you can use your stock springs as long as you don't screw with rpm shift levels and its worth 40hp at the wheels. Gas mileage is not really high on my list of priorities. Reliability is. On the other hand, my "design criteria" is to run in the 13s and 105mph. Which I know is achievable withd the LS1. Finally, are there any real pitfalls related to using a used cam. This cam was a pull out from several years ago for some big Crane cam. I'm really cheap. If I can realize hp that can be felt and keep my stock springs I would do this tomorrow. But, what are the down sides to using a 1998 cam in this 2002 engine? If any of you have desktop dyno or some such other program, please share with me your thoughts. g

Here's a link to street and performance who are offering a 6 speed GM AT model X15R. Look here: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/X15RMES.pdf This is new to me. Does anyone have any information about this transmission. Is this the heavy duty truck Allison transmission? Is this a candidate for a swap behind a LS* engine? g

Great photos. When you say c-5 shifter, are you referring to a C-5 Corvette? g

I'm using the stock Datsun A/T shifter. I converted Datsun shifter arm [this is underneath the car and is connected by rods to the Datsun A/T] from the passenger side to the driver's side of the transmission by disassembling it then reassembling with the arm on the outside. The 4L60E truck transmission is cable controlled with the interlock mounted on the side of the transmission. The truck transmission control cable is shortened and a fitting added to the end. Drill a number of holes up the side of the Datsun shifter arm and bolt it together. You will need to fabricate a bracket that will secure the cable at the shifter end. There are adjustment issues: the various holes you've drilled in the shifter arm allow for adjustment of the cable's "pull" distance. Additionally, the detents inside the Datsun shifter may have to be "adjusted" with a dremel to allow the interlock to function with the Chevrolet transmission detents. I don't have photographs, but the hardest part of this is to find a cable shop that can cut the cable and attach a clevis end. You must have a tight fitting bracket to mount the outer housing of the cable securely otherwise the cable flexes and nothing shifts. I eventually had the Datsun PRNDL working, but the D & L was not quite perfect. The advantage is a stock appearance. Sorry folks, no photos as this was done with an earlier swap.

One other thing, do NOT use hot water. Stick to cold water.

Here's a thought. If your stock cast iron exhaust manifolds are the same as my LM7 manifolds, you can just swap them front for back and mount your turbos on the stock flanges that are now up front and angled upward. At least that's the way they can be mounted on the head. I don't know if there is any clearance problems with valve covers or accessories. g g

Look for vents: if they are round and in the 1/4 panel behind the small 1/4 panel windows it is not a series 1. Also, look at the rear deck lid. If it has two small rectangular vents, you may have a series 1. g

I read TIM240's 2005 post on this matter. I understand from my local referee and the CHP that no truck engine can be legally swapped into a passenger car. At the time I was attempting to clone a 350/350 LT1 using a block out of a 1/2 ton pickup. The referee was adamant: they check serial numbers of the engine and send it along to Sacramento. If the serial is for a truck... out you go. Seemed at the time to be totally senseless as you had to have all the passenger car smog attached. Nevertheless, I'm putting an LM7 into my 71 Z over the next weekend or so and if I could legally smog it, I'd spend the time to run all the required smog fitting. Any body on the forum have a definitive answer to whether or not one can legally mount a truck engine into a passenger car? g

Somewhere, I have an old photo of a bent axle from an F100 pickup that tangled with a fair sized boar hog. Bent the axle, put the truck in a ditch, and the pig survived another short time running around in circles and screaming. The pig was shot immediately; the rancher was paid off the next week. The family ate pig meat in all its variations for the next 6 months. The 16 year old driver didn't see the left side of the family car until he turned 18. I can still hear that poor hog. g

There is a length difference between the passenger and driver's side. Seach the forum and you will find photos describing which side is shorter/longer. Check to make sure you are installing the correct axle on the correct side. When I did my installation, the end of the axle kept knocking the end cap out. My solution was to drop the rear control arms, swing the wheel out and then bolt up the CV. Worked like a charm. g

Before you jump to spend time & $ on the EV162, please read this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118858&highlight=subaru+rack+sunny. Search on "subaru rack sunny" if this link does not work. The short story is that it may be possible to use the stock subaru inner tie rods with the very short outer tie rods from and early Datsun 1200 circa '68-'71. A fellow hybridzer from down under posted photos of his Z...Stock Subaru inners and stock Datsun outers for a "Bolt Up installation". He does caution that the Australian Subaru inners may be up to 2 inches shorter than the US version. If it is, then I can guarantee you that the machine work to shorten and rethread the Subaru rod will be much less than machining the E162 rod and Subaru rack. My horror story with the E162 inner tie rod ends is pretty well documented in my Album. Look under ZGEEZER. The short story for me was that the E162 inners combined with the 240-280(Itried them all) outer pushed the toe out beyond the adjustment range. The last time I looked the MOOG catalog contained at least three different Nissan outer ends that share thread spacing and rod size with my Subaru. There appear to be several other Subaru outer tie rod ends that are short and will thread onto the stock passenger car inner. Sorry for the long post, but I really believe we can find in MOOGs catalog a short outer tie rod end that will thread onto the Subaru and bolt into the Datsun arm. g

If you are interested in domestic push rod six cylinder engines to swap into a Z, you have better choices. Ford 300 CI, lots of aftermarket parts, solid bottom end, forged crank in HD trucks, bolts up to almost any Ford transmission, heavy and cheap. Chevy 292 CI, ditto as same as Ford but I don't know if forged crank available. If you have access to salvage in Australia, the down-under Ford Falcon had a turbo charged dual or single overhead cammed six based upon Ford's later 6 [144, 170, 200 ci] that was mounted in 70's Mavericks . Jeep 6 does not seem to have a lot of aftermarket support that isn't directed to the off road crowd. I have a 96 ex Forest Service Cherokee with 125,000+ miles. I love it. Good torque and reasonable gas mileage. I wouldn't put it into my 240 though. What is a "good" swap is a personal choice. However, my personal take is if you are financially challenged or are just getting started, stick with rebuilding the L engine or think Chevrolet or Ford swap. Just like the rest of us. g

TOKI Can you post a photograph of all your parts from Courtesy. I don't recall any parts being welded, when I disassembled my early rack several years ago. You may not believe it, but these things are designed to be removed. My local JY has one late 71Z and a couple of 280's that still have the rack and pinion if you decide to opt for another r&p. g

When I get back home, I'll look at my 1970 Datsun service manual and see if it sheds any light. If I haven't posted something by Monday, send me a PM. g

No its not crazy, but it can be expensive. Personally, I replaced the front clip of a December 1970 Z and the left rear 1/4 panel, along with rust repair in the floor boards and rocker panel. It would have been cheaper to buy a Nevada or Arizona later Z. But I wanted to run a smog legal LT1 SBC in California, so I pretty much had to go with something no older than 1971. Overall, you are better off starting with something sound and rust free. g

Well, for what its worth, I got pretty ignorant with a hacksaw, a chisel and a BFH when I removed the inner tie rods from a S130 ps rack. Look at the top two inner tie rods in this photo. What I thought was a thin nut between the inner tie rod and the steering rack proper was not a nut. It was a form of lock washer that was peened over onto a narrow flat on the inner tie rod. Look at the top piece. The long rectangular flat held the peened over washer and the barely visible flat on the top of the wider piece was where I applied a 12' crescent wrench. You can see a small flat machined in It is not a jam nut and it won't turn. While, you have an S30, I'll bet Datsun secured the inner tie rods on your manual with a similar lock washer. Take another look at that "large thin nut with four faces on it". I hope this makes sense for you. g

Could very well be. Does anyone out there have a definitive statement as to the purpose of the additional sensor on the 280 fuel level sensor? g

Mine's just off jackstands. Early 1971 Series 1 240Z. Disk brakes front and rear, 3.36 R200 CLSD, Subaru PS, 280Z gas tank, CV joint axles from '89 300ZT, '73 Datsun competition hood scoop; 2002 Chevy 5.3 LSM Vortech truck engine & a/t waiting for installation. g

I have an early 280Z tank in my 71 240. The 280 sender has three wires, one of which I believe is the pressure sensor [part of the smog stuff]. Other than the different wire plug they appear to be identical in appearance and size. Both mount from the side and are sealed to the tank witha neoprene "o" ring. In this photo the 280 is the one with the plastic electrical connection. g