madkaw

Did that test which I thought would be conclusive enough, but asking if there were any other methods.

Not sure how well a flat blade feeler gauge will work on a round bore. Maybe it would be precise enough. You have to measure the gap at a very specific point in the bore because the opening would be tapered to the pivot point. I thought maybe a drill bit or something round and small at the bottom of the bore maybe?

Can someone describe a method to diagnose possible twisted shaft of bent plate? I looked at this closely and cannot detect a difference in bores with the naked eye. Would an issue bad enough to effect idle or airflow be detectable by just eyeballing or is there a method of measuring the opening in a round hole? The throttles operate smoothly and with plates closed completely they don't seem to stick, but I realize there is no vacuum .

I appreciate your endeavour to master the Mikunis. I also have FI in the wings and have megasquirt already wired in. Carbs can be a bitch

I wouldn't go bigger then 40's on the pumps for now. I think 2000 rpm struggle wouldn't be that out of line. How does the car accelerate starting above that? It seems your cam is waaayy to big to demand power at 2k. Isn't the power band about 4000- 7500 with that cam? Drowning the engine with fuel at 2000 with that cam may be partially fouling plugs and taking a while to burn it off.

Maybe should have tried a WOT starting at around 2500 or 3000rpm to see if that helped? I thought 180 mains were HUGE , but maybe not for your build.

Review your engine specs again or put in your signature. Curious of your cam selection and build. Too lazy to search your build

Not sure how to stay out of the accelerator pumps when accelerating unless you disconnect them. Having the carbs off and watching the nozzles you will see that ANY movement of the throttle causes squirting fuel from the nozzles.

Nice

I wouldn't be happy with 12.5 cruise. That's even a bit rich for WOT. My engine would show lean under moderate acceleration but fine WOT. I messed with the bleed pipes until I negated the stumble- Then my engine went all to hell

There is also the baby Vitaloni's that might not be too GOOFY for some

ARE YOU SAYING MY MIRRORS LOOK GOOFY to each his own-lol

Bummer. I've heard many dyno days issues and that sucks. love your work!

The problem is that the stock holes aren't a good location to mount mirrors. they are too far back on the door. That's why i went with the mirrors I have because they were offset forward enough to use them.

I thought about using a jeep cam sensor in their in line 6. They actually took the original dizzy hole and made a cam sensor to bolt in attached to the dizzy driveshaft.

The view is amazing with these. Seem decently built. about 100$

I think the side view is what you need to see.

Revving to fast? You just need to be above the proper rpm to make sure you have all your mechanical advance in. Transition can be a bitch to figure out. I fought it for a long time . I got it down to just a mild hiccup every once in a while.

Lots of issues reported here-what's your issue.?

I would say the mains are not involved at all speeds. You are just running on pilots at partial throttle. I've had a main jet fall off the emulsion tube and the car ran fine around town until the throttle was opened enough to pull it in. I think I would start backing off the main air jet sizes and see how that affects your AFR. You might find that you will need to drop the main jets sizes after that..

The piston ring saga continues. So I went with the sealed power set and tried fitting them yesterday. Top ring had a .027 gap and no I didn't touch them. Second ring was a bit worse. So I pulled out the Napa/Dana set and tried them. Still had .024 on the top ring. Recommended gap by Nissan .009-.015! Called the machinist and he agreed the gap is too large. He said this happens when dealing with oversize and aftermarket. I know he rehoned the cylinders to remove scratches, but my question is did he go too big? He admitted that he was on the wide side of the tolerance-but was within tolerance. He recommended ordering the next size over and and sizing .040 rings to fit. He said if you only went .010 over on the rings you could size them with no ill effects. He said he would eat the cost. Regardless-I am taking the block and pistons for another opinion at a local machine shop.

They did say that they have been in a transitional state for a while, but I guess they are getting settled in- I hope

New rockers will be money well spent if I ever build a rpm monster, then kameari looks good. Gary help boost my confidence that these rockers can still be reground correctly, so I'm going that route. I let you know how it works out.

At least never tell the wife it's done. Or she will think you have all kinds of spare time:)

So I find myself in the middle of the rocker arm dilemma-what to do? I searched around AGAIN and found a lot of dead ends. The Paraut rockers sounded promising in that it is a Japanese company, but out of stock everywhere. I stumble on this site http://www.rockerarms.com/ and gave them a call. Talked to guy for about 10 minutes and found out they are an older business that moved. They have experience with the Datsun rockers and have a special fixture to make sure their specialized grinders(radius type?) perform parallel on both both surfaces(what I wanted to hear). They charge about 7$ a rocker and do have some spares. They have moved recently so they are not at 100% capacity yet. I'm going to send a set to have as back up since the ones I got from Delta looked a bit sketchy. Gary(I think that was his name) said they guarantee their work.