madkaw

In the process of getting a refresh on my L24, but having hard time finding a good set of rings that aren't $$$ The machinist is trying to make sure that the set I get has the naiper second ring since the OEM is made like that and it seems to be imperative to the process. Trying to combine that with a good quality steel/moly top ring is where it gets tough. Many manufacturers have discontinued stuff for the L24 in NON-metric sizes. I would have been better off having 1mm or 1.5mm overbore than the .030 Anyone with ideas on quality rings for my L24 that aren't 200$ for the set?

How about any thoughts on the runner ID on the intake being 38mm at the head. Since I didn't design this I am curious of what the the original builder had in mind . I've read that 35mm is plenty big for stock valves, so maybe this was being set up for way oversized valves. The ports are nicely tapered all the way to the manifold. Could the head ports be matched up with this intake and be tapered down to the combustion chamber as to NOT kill velocity and use stock valves.

Wow- this thread has gone ballistic----lol. I was going give my guy my spare claim shells to do the same, but Andy might hav this covered. I think the clam shell project will have to be thought out as far as weight of the gauges, where to run wires, how many gauges, are the clam shells secured well enough to support all this .

Had a fun day relieving stress on some aluminum. I might not be very good at it, but I sure enjoy it. Still trying to decide which route on the TB. I have a Ford Mustang(86) 60mm TB laying there, but it has that huge idle air control gadget hanging off the end that I'm not sure I will need. I'm quite sure if I make a mounting plate based on that bolt pattern I could find something to satisfy me. Orrr... buy a cheapy Chinese crafted TB that only has the TPS and comes with a predrilled and pretty weldable mounting plate.

So I haven't measured them but what size typically were the TBs?

Loving those pipes!

The manifold is still there in my buddies shop all covered in saw dust. I keep threatening to wave cash in his face, but no cash to wave right now.

Get the fuel issue fixed first . Like said- no fuel- no power . CR isn't too bad and it should make more power with it like it is. Tune it !!!

Timing numbers don't add up. E12-80 usually is 17 degrees worth of mechanical, so you would only be at 31 total.

Love the idea of new stuff for the Z community. Don't think you are giving yourself a chance with this lack lustre presentation of the flares. You are designing products to change the look of the Z and yet not one good "complete" picture of a Z with your flares. How about a painted Z with the flares mounted up. Come on guys.

Yep he has the AUTOCLAVE!! I've seen the rolls of prepreg in the freezer. Definite higher costs dealing with the prepreg, but I thought it also saved at bit on the labor side.

So my buddy that does this stuff prefers prepreg. How much of a difference in work does using prepreg make?

I'd say you dealt properly with a "business " transaction. Kind of reminds me of a dealing with Les at Classic. Everyone swore he was a great guy and did great work, BUT, for me he failed miserably dealing with a business transaction. It took weeks and months for him to remedy the situation, but in my case I couldn't dispute my case and get my money back, BUT I would have if had the opportunity . In the end Les lost a customer ONLY because he wasn't doing business, nothing personal and that shit happens.

So where in this process would you make alterations to the console/mold? For me I would be wanting the shifter hole further forward as you already know--so how would you make that change or do you make a hole new mold?

more pics

Well since my engine is in the black hole of the machine shop, I thought I would bang out some frustration on my intake plenum. Made some progress, but I think I need to get serious about measuring volume to see where I am at. It seems big and I'm not sure how to math this out with the taper. Any suggestions on some equations or methods of measuring volume on this type shape.

Thanks for showing the process and progress- I am getting educated!

TUNE -TUNE -TUNE I would think the ignition would make a huge difference and also effect the richness issue. Dial her in and go back to the dyno!

I didn't mean 12.9 was lean, but the dyno measure of 13.9 is another story. As far as timing, my l24 showed no significant gain from 33 total and 37 total. With an efficient chamber like the MN47 you might not need much more timing, but get all you can! Didn't the mn47 have the smaller intake valve too? Did you just install cam straight up or did you verify numbers with degree wheel?

Total timing is more important than the fact that you upped your CR. Your 12.9 AFR would not be rich enough to induce backfire so maybe you ARE running a bit lean up top. Might have some tuning to do yet to yeild best results .

How aggressive is your timing with that CR? Did you do any tuning while on the dyno? Were your O2 reading good?

I've always wanted to watch the process. My FG guy is chomping at the bit to do a project for me since he is starting a business and I would like to be involved to watch the process. I was going to have him do the console, but you might have that covered. Once you are to a point to discuss options I would like to see if you would make me one.

So you made a stock replacement but will be able to modify the mold for other options easliy? Sorry for the dumb question but I don't how the molds are modified and how hard it is to make changes.

Where's the freakin cup holder

Exactly