madkaw

I hope I have better luck with Schneider than you did. Congrats

As far as the cup holder, I was looking for a more refined look with the cup holder molded into the console. Something permanent that looks like it is supposed to be there. I also pondered making the access panel for the fuse box into a mini gauge pod. Need to examine the amount of room available, but having a removable panel would make mounting and accessing gauges easier.

Yes - the hole needs to move north an inch at least for the T-5. I thought the hole in the chassis under the ashtray would allow to drop the cup holder in there- maybe not. Got to keep it low! Any kind of access panel for the fuse box would work. Be nice to think about a 12 volt receptacle( cig lighter) integrated on the passenger side for charging cell phone! Just some thoughts

Well I needed to move the shifter hole more than anything. As far as the ashtray hole, I was going to see how far I could sink a cup holder into there. 12 oz can diameter would cover most cups and the lower the better for the shifter.

Found an old thread of yours-- sounds like I can't give you any advice:) Good luck and hope it's not a sucky Schneider cam since they are regrinding mine now.

Did you verify damper was dead nuts TDC? I understand the PITA to mount wheel but using the crank pulley is probably not accurate . Do you have a build thread?

I wouldn't be suprised to hear a suggestion for a gauge provision in the console also. I thought the console would be as desired as the clamshell as far as updating for hybridzers. The clamshell is definetly needed and noted.

Couldn't be an ignition issue? Did all other events match cam card-especially intake close?

I was reading your engine link-what's the latest since 2013?

So I was wanting to do a fiberglass/CF dash for my Z, but think I want to start off a little smaller with the FG guy. I think he's up to the dash, but I think a custom console is needed more for me right now and it's a good way to test the waters. My car has the t-5 which doesn't fit any console correctly as far as the shifter hole. And my car doesn't need any of the other cut-outs for choke lever, choke light, ashtray,etc... What I want is a console that deletes EVERYTHING! I want the same basic shape as the original and of course to fit like original. I would like to have a console that someone can put whatever cutouts they want WHERE EVER they want. All I need is a door or somekind of access for the fuse box and a way to secure the shifter boot for where i decide to put the shifter hole.....and I think a molded cup holder! Once a mold is made then it could be made CF or just FG. any thoughts , suggestions, gripes, insight,ect..........................

Please post your build too! 54 flat top?

Very nice. I noticed you still run a strap over the diff?

I can't tell you present ring gaps because all parts are at the machinist. The machinist said I was concerned over nothing after a cursory look. With the block and pistons in hand he will mic everything out. He thought a hone and new rings would make things all better. I argued the markings traveled the length of the bore as if done by a machine, not rings. Maybe I didn't or couldn't see these marks with a cross hatch hone over top of them before? The shop did all the assembly work last time, but this time I will be doing the assembly. These were probably ITM pistons and rings, but can't swear to that either. We did go with SI valves and guides for the head. Still no word from Schneider on the cam. It gets a little old dealing with the lack of customer service anymore. I'll see how this motor goes second time around , I might be shipping to Rebello for the 2.8!

I loved my little 2.4-maybe she will live again! I take the motor by to the builder tomorrow for his analysis on this -it ought to be interesting. I get the feeling he thinks I beat on that motor, but I really didn't. I drove it hard at times, but not abusive.

My daughter is getting married at the end of the month and I'm worried that nothing is going wrong yet! It's all going too smoothly. The check I write will hurt, but expected. The best news is that she is moving to CA with her husband for a couple of years and is leaving me her WRX Usually comes in threes Mike- hang in there

Not going to the dark side yet- but tempting!

I will add that I looked at some old pics I had of the block fresh after hone I guess. I must have went to the shop right after they finished honed the block and before installing the pistons. Magnifying the pic as much as I could I swear I could see a faint hint of these marks under the cross hatching-weird.

A couple of the scratches can grab a finger nail and no I haven't tried any polishing.

Waiting to hear from the machinist since they assembled the short block. It's sad that the ZX block sitting in my garage with 100K miles looks better then this:(

So I have been doing some searching - could this be from dirt? I've never run this engine without a filter, but maybe I got careless and had dirt in my CAI? It's the only explanation I can think of that would score the bores ALL the way to the top of the bore. It would have to be wedged between the piston and bore.

What's going on here?

I get slight rub with 245/45/17's on my 240 with lowering springs and NO coilovers. This is a +4 offset. Like KTM-I believe the +10 offset is the key for maximizing under stock fender. You will have to use a spacer up front. My fronts clear now that I beat in the spring perch a tad. Very rarey the front touches the air dam when reversing in a tight turn and hitting a bump. I'm going with 225's since I messed up with the offset. I think 235's would clear with the +4 offset. Tires are General Ultima XP 17X8.5 rims +4 offset

I have an adjustable sprocket , but the numbers came out slightly advanced when I was done. I couldn't get it dead on the specs-probably because of head shave and block shave, so I leaned towards numbers that advanced intake.

I ran the 274f Schneider grind and it had very good low end. Power band was as advertised

Well the picture isn't very good-sorry about that. The injectors do run parallel to the port, you can't see them in that pic. The existing holes would probably have to be enlarged for electronic injectors or bungs installed.