madkaw

So is there any more info on this dash? Does the dash bolt to the metal frame? What's the story on the open ends of the dash? Stock gauges fit in there?

This what I am running on my 2.4 now. I am getting ready to pull my head and I guess my question is can I reuse a HG like this? At 150.00$ and being used on a NA motor, I am hoping that I can get away with some copper spray and be done with it. Any opinions http://www.courtesyparts.com/l24/l26-head-gasket-required-p-227556.html

Well the engine is coming out and coming apart. I will update what I find. It is time to fix this cam/rocker geometry issue and hopefully fix everything else too.

Happy for you. Those long drawn out problems are what takes the fun out of this hobby. Thanks for posting as it will help someone else eventually.

Looks and sounds good

That is so true and funny!! To the OP- might want to tell dad that the tune is more important then the displacement.

If I had an issue with a plug that looked bad, i would change it with another cylinder that was firing well. I used a propane torch when I did clean up the plugs. Somewhere in there i just bought new ones to help eliminate a plug issue. I did drive the car here and there and it didn't run 'like it used to' . The frustration is the arbitrary nature of the issue. Yes swapping out carbs moved the issue, and then I think I have it fixed, then later on the same cylinder fouls again. I wouldn't be pulling the head for this but I have this other valve issue that needs to be addressed. Hell-I still have an oil leak from the rear main issue that I have never solved-it's almost embarassing. I will end up pulling the whole motor and putting it on a stand to fix everything.

It doesn't make sense that the pistons won;t work or you need to cut reliefs on a stock rebuild. I would say that the cam is not timed properly and making you think there is an issue-when there's not. Recheck your valve timing.

Inline6---I have actually done many of the things you have mentioned. From the paper feeler gauge to the caliper measurements on the linkage rods. I am confident that the rod linkage is properly set-up. The one worn ball socket is not that bad and have adjusted to where the throttle plates all open at the same time. I am confident that the carb return springs are intact and work well. As far as throttle plates being the same on the carb, I am not as confident because i haven't come up with a best way to measure besides eyeball with a light. To the naked eye the bores are the same. I would think it would be noticable to the naked eye if this was actually causing the cylinder to almost foul out. I have taken the carbs apart at least twice and blown them out. As far as pilot adjustments, they have always been adjusted out the same amount of turns with good results. These carbs ran great!! I have since removed the intake and could find nothing with the gasket. What I didn't like was what I saw inside the combustion chamber from my view thru the ports. Looks like oily grunge sprayed against the side of the chamber. Not heavy, but a pattern on certain cylinders that make me wonder what is causing this. Is this oil from the piston side or the valve side? My plugs don't indicate a oil foul, it cleans off too easy-like carbon. I know I have issues with my rockers being improperly machined and this manifests itself with uneven pressure on the top of my valves(lash pads). Does this have any play in this, I don't know. At this point I am about ready to pull the head and get this issue fixed. I know I have an issue with these rockers, but what other issues will it cause. I need to remedy this because it will only get worse and cause damage that might be fixable. I need to make sure my guides haven't been damaged and my cam also. I know it sounds like desperation, but these tangent issues complicate troubleshooting with the engine. This year is slowly becoming a wash with my Z.

Boy this is getting interesting. This sounds so much like my issue with 40's

No progress at all. My life is getting in the way, but it's an exceptional year for me. It will be winter before we move more on this. By then Shawn(FG guy) will be tooled up the way he needs to be.

The d585 coils I was referring to were advertised as cosmetic defects, but it was chipped plastic at the wire plug- no biggy

Check out my MS3X install thread . It has pics and might help with some options

...or you can make a bracket that doesn't involve detouring your heater hose. Buy d585 coils off if eBay for 15$ each shipped . Buy a stock set of wires for 30$. Buy a Hall effect sensor for 20$ and then drill a 36-1 pattern in your flywheel.

Yes- it's normal for them to swell and get too big. Eventually you might have refridge them to try and shrink them or replace or try cutting, glueing resizing

I am kind of having the same issues, but elimination process was not quite as definitive . If I were you it would take a second look- a looonnnngggg look, you might have missed something. Sure seems you have a blockage, so it should be apparent when looking

Saying the obvious here- but when you pulled the 2 wire was it sparking for sure?

Have you done a compression check on #2 cylinder yet? Swapping carbs would help the process of elimination. Carbs are easy peasy to take off. 12mm on an extension gets to all the nuts. Make sure you don't pinch an O ring when putting them back on

I've got a pretty nice 79 manifold that I won't be needing. I need to take pics of it and look it over. I travel to St.louis area every other ay or so. I could possibly meet you with it. PM me.

I don't see any dash for a S-30 on that site.

Zed- he has carbs on it now

I just had to step away for a while. I had these carbs running very well for some time. What complicates things is I have other engine issues. Not ready for the dark side yet. I love my L6 motor even thru this. I still want to try many other options with my L6 , ie- FI and turbo FI with my Megasquirt. What hurts is I have tried not to cut corners and I still have had issues, but that's part of the hobby I guess.

Run 20 initial with no vacuum advance and you should be good. That will give you 37 all in on most ZX dizzys. Your issue might be more carb then dizzy

I have tried to stay systematic and start with the basics on this endevour. I have learned my lessons from my past. I guess the arbitrary symptoms is what gets me . One time #2 is fouling, then I try to duplicate or verify and #2 looks good. Then I did more driving or running and #2 looked fouled again. As far as AFR's, I am kind of using those numbers as a guide line right now. I had found a tune that was pretty consistant with a certain set of jets installed. In this way I know that my engine shouldn't being running in the 12's afr when it used to be in the 14's. There was never that huge of swings even with weather changes. I guess I need to research a good way to measure the butterflies to make sure I haven't twisted something. I have a buddy that has some SU's sitting around, I might see if he will let me borrow them so I can throw them on there to see what happens.

Can someone give me suggestions as to why one side of a Mikuni would pull more air then the other? I guess I will pull it off and measure throttle plates.