madkaw

Well your budget is tight, so I would just shoot for a freshen up of the n42 stuff and throw in a cam. Flat tops would be better for a hot cam, but I think you will blow thru 1000$ pretty fast. Get some electronic ignition and concentrate on a good tune. And search until your eyes bleed.

Derek, this would be easier for you to finish than me. The only part that was giving me a hard time is coupling the oil drive shaft to the Jeep sensor shaft. I know you could come up with a way to machine the jeep shaft groove to fit the oil shaft tang. I also was going to come up with a bushing to keep shaft side play to a minimum.You can buy these new all day long for 20$.

Cheap, hidden , accurate, stable.

Why not use the 240sx TPS?

It's a 4% increase in size, but not sure how that calculates to flow

All the searching I've done on these cylinder heads and I've never read a direct comparison between the 2. How much flow are you leaving on the table by not going to the larger valve? Would building a stock bore L28 with a larger cam, headers, etc.. be undermined by the smaller valve? I should add that I am staring at an MN47 head as I ask these questions. With the D shaped ports that narrow down to 31mm it makes me wonder if the larger valve is still beneficial.

That's cool

Forget all that optical crap, use a cherry hall sensor to read off the flywheel for 30$ and you don't even see it.

Early

What about an e88?

This pan is on my 82 810 wagon diesel. I noticed it when changing the oil for the first time after I got the car. Another good part from the diesel Maxima

Love to hear more about this. What application was the motor for originally and what does a motor like that cost?

I never did finish the cam sensor, so nothing definitive for you there. As far as the detonation, I has 2 spark tables going at once and the timing was way advanced.

Distributors? How primitive!

I found that using my vacuum log to hook up my pcv was great until my MAP sensor at the bottom of my log collected all my blow by. I was not running a catch can, but I will now. I do run my motor hard , so some blow by is to be expected. I have to make a significant mixture change on the triples when using a pcv vs. not using one.

You need to fill out your signature or be specific with which block, head, etc. I used the head dowels to line things up. Gaskets come in various hole sizes, so I doubt you've ruined anything.

My butt

So learned another lesson the hard way this week. Running my MAP sensor on the vacuum log was a good idea for a signal, but I guess running the PCV on the same log WITHOUT a oil separator of some kind was a bad idea. My engine started running wonky today and timing was way off. Long story short, blow by oil was gathering at my MAP sensor fitting and running down the vacuum hose right to my MS3X unit. When I pulled the line off there quite a bit of oil in the line and I believe ruined my MAP Daddy sensor. I guess I will be making a catch can to run with my PCV, if I run the PCV again. I also need to run the vacuum line for the PCV in the center of my vacuum line instead of one end. The 'controlled' vacuum leak of the pcv causes things to go lean at that end

So as I celebrated my tach finally working as i'm driving down the road I notice some pretty significant detonation. Never heard that before, so I drove back home nice and easy. When I hooked my lap top up the gauges showed some really high timing numbers, like 30 at idle. I looked at my timing tables that I just recently adjusted and the timing was right for the rpm. If I revved up the motor at all the gauge was showing 50+ degrees of advance. So I figured I screwed up something when installing the MSD and proceeded to disconnect everything, still crazy timing numbers. As I'm tugging on wires I notice my vacuum line for the MAP sensor is falling off. I pulled it the rest the way off and got a hand full of oil. My MAP sensor is in the middle of my vacuum log. I also have the PCV at one end of the vacuum log. So i'm guess I have or had significant blow by and it accumulates at the lowest point, which down the vacuum log to my MS unit. I guess the MAP sensor is toast. I tried cleaning it, but no luck

Got my tach working FINALLY. I didn't try real hard at first, but I had a MSD 8920 and wasn't getting it to work . I chased wires by pulling the tach to make sure I had correct ones- still didn't work. My dumb ass didn't know that you had to turn on the tach output on tuner studio. Now tach works. Time to head to the dyno!

It's been just over a year since you started this thread. I think your pace has been anything but slow. I don't know how you have had time to do anything else in your life. There's guys on here that spend this long just assembling a motor, let alone designing, fabricating and actual assembly. Looks great. Getting so close.

I guess there isn't many mikuni gurus here anymore. Anyhow, I took the #1 carb off again looking for possible air leaks. I looked over the plastic insolators for cracks, but found only some warpage of the insolators. You would think that being sandwiched between the intake and carb would flatten it out enough, but maybe not. The O-ring only sits about.3mm above the groove, not much room for error. I decided to take sandpaper to the insolators on a glass table and found a significant low spot on one of the insolators. I magic markered the all the insolators and sanded flat with wet sandpaper. I can now run similiar mixture settings on all the carbs, so it must have helped. Iv'e given up on #6 sputter issue for now. It doesn't effect much and doesn't foul plug, just makes that plug slightly darker. Last day of running hard I couldn't see a difference in any of the plugs. I can watch the AFR's bobble a bit rich----dam gauge, I'm obsessed. Time to go to the dyno! Current settings 65 pilots 1.5 turns 200 main airs 145 mains Afr WOT in 3rd is spot on-13.5, but 4th seems a bit rich 12.5 ish. I guess thats normal. I might need to drop to 140's for the dyno. Third gear is all the fun with this car since I can get 100mph out of it, so i have mostly tuned WOT for it. My AFR might be a bit skewed from #6 dribble, so I need(make mental note) to swap back wideband to from 3 cylinders.

Picking up a complete runner tomorrow. I'm only wanting crank and trans, so PM me . I didn't want to be in a hurry to part this out, but for the right price I would step up the process. This would ship from indiana.

I bet you miss the L gata , but good luck.

I am changing my suspicion of the sputtering to the pilot mixture . I can dial in the mixture screw until the sputter goes away, but then it's about to lean to run. Not sure what's going on so I guess I will yank the carb off and look inside the mixture hole. Any ideas?