madkaw

Nice

I wouldn't be happy with 12.5 cruise. That's even a bit rich for WOT. My engine would show lean under moderate acceleration but fine WOT. I messed with the bleed pipes until I negated the stumble- Then my engine went all to hell

There is also the baby Vitaloni's that might not be too GOOFY for some

ARE YOU SAYING MY MIRRORS LOOK GOOFY to each his own-lol

Bummer. I've heard many dyno days issues and that sucks. love your work!

The problem is that the stock holes aren't a good location to mount mirrors. they are too far back on the door. That's why i went with the mirrors I have because they were offset forward enough to use them.

I thought about using a jeep cam sensor in their in line 6. They actually took the original dizzy hole and made a cam sensor to bolt in attached to the dizzy driveshaft.

The view is amazing with these. Seem decently built. about 100$

I think the side view is what you need to see.

Revving to fast? You just need to be above the proper rpm to make sure you have all your mechanical advance in. Transition can be a bitch to figure out. I fought it for a long time . I got it down to just a mild hiccup every once in a while.

Lots of issues reported here-what's your issue.?

I would say the mains are not involved at all speeds. You are just running on pilots at partial throttle. I've had a main jet fall off the emulsion tube and the car ran fine around town until the throttle was opened enough to pull it in. I think I would start backing off the main air jet sizes and see how that affects your AFR. You might find that you will need to drop the main jets sizes after that..

The piston ring saga continues. So I went with the sealed power set and tried fitting them yesterday. Top ring had a .027 gap and no I didn't touch them. Second ring was a bit worse. So I pulled out the Napa/Dana set and tried them. Still had .024 on the top ring. Recommended gap by Nissan .009-.015! Called the machinist and he agreed the gap is too large. He said this happens when dealing with oversize and aftermarket. I know he rehoned the cylinders to remove scratches, but my question is did he go too big? He admitted that he was on the wide side of the tolerance-but was within tolerance. He recommended ordering the next size over and and sizing .040 rings to fit. He said if you only went .010 over on the rings you could size them with no ill effects. He said he would eat the cost. Regardless-I am taking the block and pistons for another opinion at a local machine shop.

They did say that they have been in a transitional state for a while, but I guess they are getting settled in- I hope

New rockers will be money well spent if I ever build a rpm monster, then kameari looks good. Gary help boost my confidence that these rockers can still be reground correctly, so I'm going that route. I let you know how it works out.

At least never tell the wife it's done. Or she will think you have all kinds of spare time:)

So I find myself in the middle of the rocker arm dilemma-what to do? I searched around AGAIN and found a lot of dead ends. The Paraut rockers sounded promising in that it is a Japanese company, but out of stock everywhere. I stumble on this site http://www.rockerarms.com/ and gave them a call. Talked to guy for about 10 minutes and found out they are an older business that moved. They have experience with the Datsun rockers and have a special fixture to make sure their specialized grinders(radius type?) perform parallel on both both surfaces(what I wanted to hear). They charge about 7$ a rocker and do have some spares. They have moved recently so they are not at 100% capacity yet. I'm going to send a set to have as back up since the ones I got from Delta looked a bit sketchy. Gary(I think that was his name) said they guarantee their work.

Typical Newbie. Another useless thread

It's there, you just need to keep digging. Search every chance you get. Read megamanual on your smart phone instead of facebooking. Eventually you will get over the steep learning hump. Read the Megasquirt section here again and again. I also wrote up my MS3x install

I need to do more measuring, but it looks like the head port is about 120mm long-from the back of the valve to the port entry. At the current taper of the intake runner, the taper should blend with the head port at about half that distance. Don't want to just open up the ports and kill velocity, but also want to continue the taper for a smooth transition. With that in mind, don't know if trying to remount the intake to meet roof line will be necessary, but need to stare it more. Don't want to screw up a good head by carving out way too much. Also, size and taper of these runners may dictate a bigger motor then I can afford to build? I still have a lot to learn, but it doesn't seem that 45 intake port entry is not huge. Yes I am trying to build the next motor around this intake, but I will admit that I am still trying to figure out where this intake will perform-highend or lowend.

Still looking for thoughts on the runner taper on this intake. Looks like 45mm at the bellmouths tapered down around 37mm at the head side of the runnners-which of course is 2mm bigger then stock port opening. I only guess that the original owner of this intake intended on opening up the head ports and tapering them also to make this transition? Looks like the taper is about 1.3 ratio which I have read is ideal for a taper. So based on this, tapering the head port would put it back to around 35mm just before the port turns. I been trying to read up on runner length and tuning and the formulas always seem to go beyound my comprehension-which isn't much-lol. Trying to determine if this intake design is better used for a lower rpm power or the opposite. The Canon runner is only 6" long, and with no air horns, seems to make this short compared the same intake with carbs and airhorns.

I have a valve cover that i cut the top off of and plan on installing it when priming engine with pump shaft. Probably keep it on there for initial start too-hopefully won't make too much of a mess;) Hopefully you are done messing with this aspect of your build. Sounds like you should have a stout motor.

I have to agree with Kenny- if you believe someone that says they know what the tire market will be in 10 years as far as sizes -well good luck to you. Your question is almost ridiculous so the answer you got was spot on.

I Guess I have a hard time believing someone would install a dry oil pump. Not bashing at all , just wouldn't trust it . Glad you went to the shaft prime. Why straight to 2000 RPMS - for break in? Schnedier said this wasn't necessary for our cams.

Builder is ?