madkaw

Well my ebay rings arrived today in their Dana Corp box. I haven't delivered them to the machinist yet, but our big concern was the second ring being a napier style ring. The rings have no instructions and ,or description of what is what. I can only ASSume that the second ring is the one with the shinier outer surface. It is the only ring that has any "cut' or resemblance of a napier cut. It looks chamfered with the naked eye, but under a magnifying glass it looks more like a napier cut. The only markings on the rings themselves is a TP and .075 on both rings. I would also like to ASSume that the markings indicate the top of the ring. I think TP is for Teikoku Piston corporation, but I would think the placement of the mark would be to place it topside. I would appreciate any input from you guys on this. My other option is 200$ units from sealed power. Not trying to be a tight ass here, but I will be going to a L28 and don't want to put much money in this bottom end. The pistons are sealed power units, but they no longer make rings or pistons in this size, so its all special order now.

Congrats!!

Found NOS on ebay-where else-LOL Old Napa rings that were made in Japan a zillion years ago still in there original packing. i don't have them in my hands yet and curious to see them and determine exact material of top ring.

Are these dimensionally the same as the z32 trans. I thought I remember reading that there was only a 1/4" space all around on the tunnel

Hopefully I have found my issue , but won't know until it's back together. Had the trans rebuilt and the tailshaft bushing was out of round. In his opinion, this was most likely my issue. He also said to make sure I check my pilot bushing. He said the T-5's were notorious for having bad tailshaft bushings.

Had my trans rebuilt by a local trans guru and he had to make a bushing. He verified that they are NLA. He made one by taking a Ford A4ld? trans bushing and reducing the OD by just .005.

They don't sell them for .030 over. I did see that ad before

Looking to see if anyone has some laying around that they aren't going to use

In the process of getting a refresh on my L24, but having hard time finding a good set of rings that aren't $$$ The machinist is trying to make sure that the set I get has the naiper second ring since the OEM is made like that and it seems to be imperative to the process. Trying to combine that with a good quality steel/moly top ring is where it gets tough. Many manufacturers have discontinued stuff for the L24 in NON-metric sizes. I would have been better off having 1mm or 1.5mm overbore than the .030 Anyone with ideas on quality rings for my L24 that aren't 200$ for the set?

How about any thoughts on the runner ID on the intake being 38mm at the head. Since I didn't design this I am curious of what the the original builder had in mind . I've read that 35mm is plenty big for stock valves, so maybe this was being set up for way oversized valves. The ports are nicely tapered all the way to the manifold. Could the head ports be matched up with this intake and be tapered down to the combustion chamber as to NOT kill velocity and use stock valves.

Wow- this thread has gone ballistic----lol. I was going give my guy my spare claim shells to do the same, but Andy might hav this covered. I think the clam shell project will have to be thought out as far as weight of the gauges, where to run wires, how many gauges, are the clam shells secured well enough to support all this .

Had a fun day relieving stress on some aluminum. I might not be very good at it, but I sure enjoy it. Still trying to decide which route on the TB. I have a Ford Mustang(86) 60mm TB laying there, but it has that huge idle air control gadget hanging off the end that I'm not sure I will need. I'm quite sure if I make a mounting plate based on that bolt pattern I could find something to satisfy me. Orrr... buy a cheapy Chinese crafted TB that only has the TPS and comes with a predrilled and pretty weldable mounting plate.

So I haven't measured them but what size typically were the TBs?

Loving those pipes!

The manifold is still there in my buddies shop all covered in saw dust. I keep threatening to wave cash in his face, but no cash to wave right now.

Get the fuel issue fixed first . Like said- no fuel- no power . CR isn't too bad and it should make more power with it like it is. Tune it !!!

Timing numbers don't add up. E12-80 usually is 17 degrees worth of mechanical, so you would only be at 31 total.

Love the idea of new stuff for the Z community. Don't think you are giving yourself a chance with this lack lustre presentation of the flares. You are designing products to change the look of the Z and yet not one good "complete" picture of a Z with your flares. How about a painted Z with the flares mounted up. Come on guys.

Yep he has the AUTOCLAVE!! I've seen the rolls of prepreg in the freezer. Definite higher costs dealing with the prepreg, but I thought it also saved at bit on the labor side.

So my buddy that does this stuff prefers prepreg. How much of a difference in work does using prepreg make?

I'd say you dealt properly with a "business " transaction. Kind of reminds me of a dealing with Les at Classic. Everyone swore he was a great guy and did great work, BUT, for me he failed miserably dealing with a business transaction. It took weeks and months for him to remedy the situation, but in my case I couldn't dispute my case and get my money back, BUT I would have if had the opportunity . In the end Les lost a customer ONLY because he wasn't doing business, nothing personal and that shit happens.

So where in this process would you make alterations to the console/mold? For me I would be wanting the shifter hole further forward as you already know--so how would you make that change or do you make a hole new mold?

more pics

Well since my engine is in the black hole of the machine shop, I thought I would bang out some frustration on my intake plenum. Made some progress, but I think I need to get serious about measuring volume to see where I am at. It seems big and I'm not sure how to math this out with the taper. Any suggestions on some equations or methods of measuring volume on this type shape.

Thanks for showing the process and progress- I am getting educated!