madkaw

Jamal , I'll take pics please and any history on the head. Could you email me S_finnerty1018@comcast.net Thank

I found a few maxima 's in the Pickn.pull site and they are all in CA or WA

Been looking- believe me. They always seem to end up on your side of the country.

Looking for something I can tailor for my build. Sounds nice but not what I am looking for.

The motor sounded awesome before the fire- sorry for the loss.

Looking for a n-47 that came on the early maximas-81-84. Bare or loaded, doesn't matter.

Thanks for taking the time and doing the dyno runs during all the changes. We have dyno numbers all over the website, but not much of a direct comparison after changes on the same motor and dyno. It would interesting to see what changes will happen as you let the motor breathe with bigger straws;) I hadn't notice before that you were only running 40's, or do I have that right? You know Rebello big numbers straw through some 45's or even 50's, which is probably needed.

It seems contradictory that you are shooting for performance at 2000 rpm with main airs as big as you have them. I think IMHO that you are way too big on the main airs and it's throwing off your tuning. Running that big of mains and then diluting the mix with that big of main airs seems self defeating. Since you have had other issues(cam timing), maybe start back on the small side. Remember the smaller the main air jets the richer the main jet mix. How about something completely different like 155 mains and 180 main airs and see what that yeilds? Once again I'm not sure you are going to get a street tune with that big of cam. I wouldn't even tune for WOT under 3000 rpm. That puts you right in the middle of the transition issue with triples and it also puts you in timing curve issues. I would tune for WOT and cruise and idle. Idle for easy starts, cruise to keep plugs clean, and WOT for WOT. Staring at the Wide Band during driving could lead to insanity and a bad accident-lol

Like said, if it's well done I can appreciate it regardless of taste. Thanks for sharing

That's a lot to be off with a big cam. I guess take the good with the bad here. I always wonder why more folks don't degree their cams since it has a big effect on performance.

I have a complete set myself:)

I believe Jon was saying that in most cases 40 pump nozzles are plenty big enough for accelerating, but the pilot jets cam help a lot with hesitation. Go bigger on the pilots before messing with the pumps. If you read this thread you will read that I tried many options to cure transition issues. The changing of pump sizes and setting did nothing. Now if yours are not working then that's a different story.

And thanks again for sharing this process. I worked a short time as a machine operator/machinist in Fort Walton Beach FL for aero tech or something like that where we repaired jet engine cases. I really enjoyed doing the machine work even though it is primitive(operating a 42" vertical lathe ) compared to CNC creations like this.

I am jealous of your expertise in machining(creating)!

So much to do so little time

Exactly

Todd at Wolf Creek had me remove the cover and rest it against something and measure the distance between the cover and the top of the float =12mm Not sure is 44's are different then 40's

Did that test which I thought would be conclusive enough, but asking if there were any other methods.

Not sure how well a flat blade feeler gauge will work on a round bore. Maybe it would be precise enough. You have to measure the gap at a very specific point in the bore because the opening would be tapered to the pivot point. I thought maybe a drill bit or something round and small at the bottom of the bore maybe?

Can someone describe a method to diagnose possible twisted shaft of bent plate? I looked at this closely and cannot detect a difference in bores with the naked eye. Would an issue bad enough to effect idle or airflow be detectable by just eyeballing or is there a method of measuring the opening in a round hole? The throttles operate smoothly and with plates closed completely they don't seem to stick, but I realize there is no vacuum .

I appreciate your endeavour to master the Mikunis. I also have FI in the wings and have megasquirt already wired in. Carbs can be a bitch

I wouldn't go bigger then 40's on the pumps for now. I think 2000 rpm struggle wouldn't be that out of line. How does the car accelerate starting above that? It seems your cam is waaayy to big to demand power at 2k. Isn't the power band about 4000- 7500 with that cam? Drowning the engine with fuel at 2000 with that cam may be partially fouling plugs and taking a while to burn it off.

Maybe should have tried a WOT starting at around 2500 or 3000rpm to see if that helped? I thought 180 mains were HUGE , but maybe not for your build.

Review your engine specs again or put in your signature. Curious of your cam selection and build. Too lazy to search your build

Not sure how to stay out of the accelerator pumps when accelerating unless you disconnect them. Having the carbs off and watching the nozzles you will see that ANY movement of the throttle causes squirting fuel from the nozzles.