madkaw

It's there, you just need to keep digging. Search every chance you get. Read megamanual on your smart phone instead of facebooking. Eventually you will get over the steep learning hump. Read the Megasquirt section here again and again. I also wrote up my MS3x install

I need to do more measuring, but it looks like the head port is about 120mm long-from the back of the valve to the port entry. At the current taper of the intake runner, the taper should blend with the head port at about half that distance. Don't want to just open up the ports and kill velocity, but also want to continue the taper for a smooth transition. With that in mind, don't know if trying to remount the intake to meet roof line will be necessary, but need to stare it more. Don't want to screw up a good head by carving out way too much. Also, size and taper of these runners may dictate a bigger motor then I can afford to build? I still have a lot to learn, but it doesn't seem that 45 intake port entry is not huge. Yes I am trying to build the next motor around this intake, but I will admit that I am still trying to figure out where this intake will perform-highend or lowend.

Still looking for thoughts on the runner taper on this intake. Looks like 45mm at the bellmouths tapered down around 37mm at the head side of the runnners-which of course is 2mm bigger then stock port opening. I only guess that the original owner of this intake intended on opening up the head ports and tapering them also to make this transition? Looks like the taper is about 1.3 ratio which I have read is ideal for a taper. So based on this, tapering the head port would put it back to around 35mm just before the port turns. I been trying to read up on runner length and tuning and the formulas always seem to go beyound my comprehension-which isn't much-lol. Trying to determine if this intake design is better used for a lower rpm power or the opposite. The Canon runner is only 6" long, and with no air horns, seems to make this short compared the same intake with carbs and airhorns.

I have a valve cover that i cut the top off of and plan on installing it when priming engine with pump shaft. Probably keep it on there for initial start too-hopefully won't make too much of a mess;) Hopefully you are done messing with this aspect of your build. Sounds like you should have a stout motor.

I have to agree with Kenny- if you believe someone that says they know what the tire market will be in 10 years as far as sizes -well good luck to you. Your question is almost ridiculous so the answer you got was spot on.

I Guess I have a hard time believing someone would install a dry oil pump. Not bashing at all , just wouldn't trust it . Glad you went to the shaft prime. Why straight to 2000 RPMS - for break in? Schnedier said this wasn't necessary for our cams.

Builder is ?

WOW!!!!!

Head work discussions by Braap in FAQ is what I reference. Porting work seems the least needed for a street motor. Getting a head that operates at full advance on todays gas on a performance tuned motor seems to be a better priority-IMHO. Not sure what you mean by spin out. The point of the P79 is that there is NO chamber work other than shaving! Maybe some unshrouding-done. On a flat top piston it wouldn't necessarily need shaving .

I thought the idea for all the work on the P79(which isn't a lot of work really) is to take advantage of the more modern combustion chamber that has good quench characteristics. The head can handle the higher compression better because of the good chamber design thus fighting of detonation. I don't think it's a bad idea at all. It would cost a lot more to have an older head reworked to produce the same quench characteristics. The idea is to be able to run a more aggressive timing with a decent CR ratio that gives the power!

WOW

Under engine components you will find the MS subforum. Read thru all those and see if you come back with the same questions. It is a steep learning curve, so brace yourself for a lot of reading, studying.

Not a very simple question. If you are wanting to be spoon fed on the installation you won't get much help here. Not trying to slam you, but you obviously haven't done some serious studying on this. Have you read through the MS forums here? The Megamanuals go into great detail and many including me have taken time to post our projects. You should also be posting in the MS forum, not the L6

Have you verified timing with a light yet? It's the best and only way to know what your trigger angle is.

New Zed speaks with wisdom. You still need to do more searching. Skirkland is right, spend your $ on MS before getting an aftermarket intake. The"mess" should be your target plan if you are going MS. If you have searched you have realized that a great TUNE will get you further then headers, intakes, SS valves. You still haven't answered what head you are using? The head is everything done right.

'Wideband seems so unnecessary', you still think that? Like stated, are you 100% sure on your ignition?

Sweet

You said it was dynoed with 'his intake, exhaust, ignition'-so how does that compare to yours? I'm quite sure his tuning skills are very good compared to the majority. Are you assuming your tuning skills are as good as his. Too many variables to just point the finger at driveline loss. I will admit that I would be kind of disappointed with your numbers since I was handed a 300hp motor. I'm not buying 27% driveline loss though. What kind of torque numbers?

Pete, I think the primary issue was more of getting or having a set that uses a Napier style ring regardless of material. I'm pretty sure the sealed power are a moly-style top ring. Like you said, money well spent on good rings. It's a reality check when you find out prices of the high quality engine components. The machinist had the same conversation with me over valves. I thought SI SS valves was a big step up, but in reality they are near the bottom of the food chain when it comes to race stuff. How nice would an unlimited budget would be! C'mon Lotto

I went with the sealed power rings to match my sealed power Pistons . The more I read about piston ring technology the more I was sold on the need for a Napier ring and quality rings in general. The hasting rings are no longer available in the L24!.030 over. More options for you L28 guys

Not to question your experience Pete, but is this from experience you speak?

The machinist is a bit worried since he tried bypassing the Napier set up on some Mazda engines and it bit him in he ass . Engines smoked . The Madza motors also specify Napier ring

Well the machinist rated these rings as average and said there was No Napier ring . I guess I could live with average , but maybe shouldn't try and go without the Napier ring.?

Have you tried adjusting the gap on the Hall sensor? Does the Hall sensor require a pull up resistor? I can't help you with wiring since I did NOT go with a relay board.

Well my ebay rings arrived today in their Dana Corp box. I haven't delivered them to the machinist yet, but our big concern was the second ring being a napier style ring. The rings have no instructions and ,or description of what is what. I can only ASSume that the second ring is the one with the shinier outer surface. It is the only ring that has any "cut' or resemblance of a napier cut. It looks chamfered with the naked eye, but under a magnifying glass it looks more like a napier cut. The only markings on the rings themselves is a TP and .075 on both rings. I would also like to ASSume that the markings indicate the top of the ring. I think TP is for Teikoku Piston corporation, but I would think the placement of the mark would be to place it topside. I would appreciate any input from you guys on this. My other option is 200$ units from sealed power. Not trying to be a tight ass here, but I will be going to a L28 and don't want to put much money in this bottom end. The pistons are sealed power units, but they no longer make rings or pistons in this size, so its all special order now.