madkaw

Not all Pcv,s are the same, so choose wisely. You can use a stock Pcv , just put it in the middle of the run and use hose clamped on to the threaded end. I pulled a valve off the shelf at the parts store based on it fitting my set up, but it did not work the same. It bipassed quite a bit of air at idle vs. the OEM valve that hardly bypasses any air at idle. I was able to tune the car this way and it actually worked really well for idle and start ups, but didn't realize how different it was from stock until I put one on. I wish I knew what actual Pcv I was using ( for what car).

Beautiful build and attention to detail. You got this far so tuning the carbs should be bad. Didn't read the whole thread but hopefully you have a wideband to help you tune

Then please describe your build

I like the no spark plug wire look, but the nostalgic look of your motor it doesn't look bad. Could you run a Subby type COP and just go with a CAS ? I think the little coils would just blend in nicely on that valve cover.

I think the speedi sleeves are .011 thick

It's a shame the Speedi sleeves aren't a tad thicker-that would be a cheap ,easy fix for the shim

It takes a large amount of research and a steep climb on the learning curve for the MS. Each vehicle having it's own path. It WILL click soon enough if you stay at it. My experience is with MS3 and no dizzy, so it would take me lot's of studying to get where you are. I would suggest getting on the MS forums, buy someone a starbucks by donating to the forum and go from there. Make sure you can upload your settings in your thread and then be patient. Don't expect an immediate answer , but sometimes a direction to go. Take your time and write your question in much detail. I would say that since the car runs, you have a HUGE start on your conquest. There seems to be many issues with losing communication with rpms. I believe it's just a setting-ask me how I know

YES - us T-5 guys want to know- lol

It's a shame you didn't measure that mark from the bell housing flange so we could have a reference

Slip a link-best know what your doing there, though I've been tempted to advance timing a weeee bit more.

I was surprised and enthused by the price-if you didn't notice-1700$ for the whole shebang!

http://www.rhdjapan.com/search/category/turbo-and-na-systems_throttle-bodies-or-intake-plenums-or-surge-tanks-and-parts?q=L-28 I WANT !!

Might need to direct your attention to that relay as far incoming trigger wire and associated grounds with that relay . Maybe swap out a relay and try.

The wagon is still going!! So no holes:) Well I have a non webbed 42 that I would like to upgrade to 14mm Oring at both ends. So I need to get the intake reamed out for 14mm injectors. Would like to run high impedence to simplify things. I am also making a custom plenum/intake using a canon intake that I need a fuel rail for. Not sure of the part out date-but it will happen

I would be interested in that trade for sure! I will be parting out a diesel in the short future and I will not be using the oil pan. AND I need a duel rail:)

Didn't need an adapter for the ZX dizzy, it just worked

Like my signature says 9/71. The wires I refer to are DIRECTLY behind the tach at the harness connection.

So after it seems years without a tach working, I finally got it going. Long story short, I pulled the tach and wired in the MSD 8920 right at the back of the tach at the harness. I cut the black/white and green/white at the plug, which connect the current loop of white wires, and wired one to 12v, and other to the red on the adapter and it worked. So happy to keep my original clean tach.

Got the 8920 tach adapter to work with my MS3. The key for me was to wire DIRECTLY off the tach plug in the back. I cut the green/white and black/white wires at the connector and ran wires from there to make the tach loop. I then wired exactly per instructions. I think the path of current takes to many detours in the harness to try and pick up the tach from under the passenger side wiring.

The attachment that the OP put on there shows CB for the current type tach. I think it would be easier to try and get a 73 or later to work. I didn't think the later tachs like the 280s mount in to the dash right. So maybe the 73 is your best option?

I was trying to talk my buddy into making that so I could try it, let me know how it goes. I've been trying to get a 8920 converter to work, but no luck.

I bought the cheapest dell they sold that was touch screen, I think it was 300$. The computer is not the best, but great for the MS. It's the smallest screen they sell anymore, 10" I think

I bet it would be very similiar. I would think that combo would work well. The small chambers on the Mn47 would bump compression slightly, but maybe not much at all. I don't know anything about the W24 block, but as long as it's Nissan, it should work:)

Noticed that on my 40's also. No way that I saw to change this. I guess you have to remember that the airflow would help pull it into the cylinder.

speechless