madkaw

Doesn't the megamanual show exactly how to wire the LS coils complete with wire color codes? On my d585 coils the pink was hot if I remember.

You should be able to test each coil individually with ms3 and COP. Test each one plugged in ONE AT A TIME- to see if you pinpoint wiring problem

Wow how time flies! I have to look at these old posts so I cam remember when I did what--lol. So now my cheapy fix using the glass packs for resonators is failing. I guess i shouldn't have expected them to last too long at 20$ a piece, but anyways the drone is coming back so I need to do something. I just improved the driving experience by finally eliminating exhaust fumes and now the noise is getting un bearable. So I ponder whether to go with regular turbo mufflers in place of the glasspacks( the ones foward of the diff) or just get a baffled muffler(performance type). I was looking at http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=11500 for a straight thru option. The chambered version would be a bit tougher to fit being an oval type, but I think I can do it. The other aspect of this that do I want install a muffler with future plans to do away with the rear mufflers and replace them with Ansa tips or something. Another words make sure I make the exhaust quiet enough with just two mufflers so I have this option. Honestly don't think I can make this exhaust too quiet with the fact of my headers and long primaries The rear mufflers are Magna flow turbos but they are very small like 10" . And yes the sound is worth all this effort!

Thanks for the input. I will probably have the dash made with both indents and like you said they could be easily filled for those who don't want them. I really want to keep this as stock as possible so all can enjoy. The glove box and heater panel(holes) will be formed as stock. They will be filled with a flat panel, but recessed as to keep the holes fully functional by cutting the panel out-which could be done for the buyer. I was also going to make sure the "filler panel" in these two areas will be vertical enough to make the panel useful for additional gauges -for those non-stock applications. We have already discussed a CF glove box door for the CF dash and the CF wiper panel. The console on the other hand will probably be custom and closer to the later version . If i'm not mistaken these plastic consoles are still available or replicas are available. The pursuit of the console in this case will be to make a CF version for those wanting a CF dash. I want to incorporate a fuse box access and make the shifter opening somewhat flexible for all versions of transmissions. Not sure how I'm going to pull that off, but open to suggestions. Like in my case with the BWT-5 trans the opening needs to be further foward.

Thanks-this is what I am looking for.

Hey guys-this is an open topic. Another words, opinions or suggestions are welcome. I am following thru with this and I do want to get this right. Though it will be a stock duplicate, I want to make sure I don't miss anything. My biggest concern is getting the shape right since I am using an older dash for the mold. I've noticed on my dash(71) compared to other early dashes there was a difference in the shape on the ends of the dash. The ends closest to the door has a top and bottom -if you will- and on my dash the upper half has a slight concave curvature while the bottom half is much flatter. BUT, on a dash that I recovered with a cap last year the bottom half was concave too-maybe more worn? Also. the indentations for the hazard switch. My dash has two indentations, but only one was used for the hazard switch. Can someone weigh in on this?

Welding vise clamps, but some short bungees would be perfect twined through the wheel spokes

sorry-didn't take any. Picture two pieces of 30" bed frame iron. Strap one each iron/steel bar on to the outside of each wheel/tire as high on the assembly as possible while still being able to reach a tape measure under the car from one wheel to the other. I think on mine it was probably 6-8" of the ground-maybe more, but it was below centerline of the wheel. Now measure difference from front to back of the wheel using the bed iron and adjust as needed. I did have my car on wheel dollies so weight of car was on the tires.

I went with the old racers method- according to my sprint car buddy. Clamped some bed iron pieces to the outside of my wheel - low and long enough to beable to rich with a tape measure. Car drives very straight down the road with just 1/8" toe in!

Yes?

Nice day and the car was washed-so what the hell

I bet you have a ton of room on the spring side- I wouldn't go to all that effort to widen the stock fenders and then turn around and put flares on it. 9" wide rim should fit in there perfect if you have the right offset

Coming in this evening, shoot you a pm when I get in. Probably be around until tomorrow night

Looks good. I see you are in Edwardsville. I stay at the double tree in collinsville all the time for work

Did you try the z32 trans threads? I thought I was reading about that the other day

I have read a lot of bad poop on the MSD, so sorry to hear about your pain. I will give a shameless plug for my e-12 set-up for sale, it works great!!!!!!!!!!! I don't know about MSD's but from what I have read. I know they are sensitive to voltage issues, so make sure everything relating to charging and grounds is solid.

Silly question but could you have mixed them up? Did you try swapping them?

Hey thanks for the heads up. I just looked at the website and looks like the way to go for a DS

I have ordered another length of fuel rail and I am going to re drill the rail to align with the port holes better. I'm going to shorten all the barb fittings and hope to get total length of rubber lines down to less then 2". I guess Jeff P manifold wasn't a bad idea after all. I just want to get rid of all the hoses across my pretty Mikunis. Hoping to have enough hose between the barb fittings to be able to pinch them shut for syncing. Yes I have read of the filter to modify the signal. MS actually has a set up for ITB speed density tuning. I need to do more reading Need to do more tuning too. Maybe next week I will make it to the dyno

Still plugging away at this. I have been wanting to go to a trans shop for them to give me an opinion about the side play. I know the owner thru a friend so I think I can plan on an honest assessment. I also wonder if I sized the DS too short and it sits too far off the tailshaft allowing for play. I looked at another T-5(out of a car) and tried the DS in it, and depending on how far the splines were meshed was directly related to the play. It seemed that the yoke had to be all the way up on the spline to eliminate play. But what play amount is normal or tolerable? I don't know so i am taking it to a trans guy. Thru searching I have found similiar issues, but usually yoke not properly centered on the DS. My DS was made by a DS shop and I have taken it back for verification of balance.

Still confused of what you are trying to accomplish here. The "tune" is not what's going to be a problem, it's getting the MS properly set-up and working with no glitches. Like said above, having a reliable and understandable rpm signal and proper wiring and a strong understanding of the MS will be your advantage. I'd say once you have tuned with the NA motor and then added turbo mods you will be ready to drop in any motor. Timing will be everything---especially with a turbo motor, so a good understanding of speed density tuning or whatever you are using is priority.

Very Cool! I imagined doing a project like this a while ago, but wasn't sure how one would pull it off. I like your approach, subtle. Watching with interest

Not sure what the OP is asking, but this is sound advice from Metro. Get the MS working flawlessly on the NA first, especially idle and start. You are actually doing what I am doing now. I am installing MS 3 on my L24 witth Mikuni's-then eventually FI turbo. Ignition seems to be the problem with most installs. I will add that there is another option for rpm signal-might check my thread

Well soldering was almost too easy -once I found a method, which was less solder the better. I found holding a small iron against the hole for a bit then tinning the tip slightly and smearing it over the hole worked best. I used a minature fine file and then some fine sandpaper to smooth everything out