madkaw

Still surprised that the dyno didn't have an O2 sensor to give you AFRs on your run. Every dyno I've seen has that.

Soldered everything in the engine bay. I had a 8 ft harness so plenty of wire to work with. Examples of what you are soldering? I did the complete LS1 coil wiring on the fender

So where in Indiana ?

I can't figure out what you are asking? Did you look at my thread? I ran the harness thru the old AC cutouts

I am meeting with the fabricator this week end to talk about making a replacement FG dash for the 240z model only right now. The meeting will be to discuss how we want to make this work as far as structure and materials. In discussions on the phone it seems for now that the original steel backer will be retained to ease fabrication time and to insure easy R&R for a stock fit. Materials will have options. We talked about a standard FG option that would reduce cost and give folks that want a stock looking dash a replacement that is permanent and tough. It could be easily painted with texture painted to duplicate the factory look. Installation would involve removing your existing dash and separating the metal backer and installing it on the new dash. The metal backer(frame) would screw into new FG dash just like the old one.. More then likely the heater panel hole and glove box hole will be blanked and have to be cut out, pretty easy. The CF option would be more expensive and also would have additional add-ons. The add-ons would be in a glove box door that matches and possibly the wiper panel too. We are also going to discuss the center console and a CF option for it. He said that he can use the same mold for either FG option will help reduce cost. This process is just getting started so no prices yet. This dash is being set-up to be an EXACT copy, so there won't be any special options for gauges or such. In needs to appeal to the masses to make this worth while. The racers could easily have the option of leaving the glove box and heater blanked for gauge options or whatever. As stated earlier I am interested in a center console also. More then likely it would retain the original shape but have options as far as gear shifter hole location. It would probably eliminate any smaller holes for the choke levers. Any suggestions to discuss with the console? keep you guys updated

Just trying to find something you've done half assed so it will make me feel better- lol People call me a perfectionist and I couldn't hold a candle to you. It's a shame only a few qualified individuals will understand the level of work your doing. You have to do this level of work for yourself. Very entertaining , thank you for the detail of sharing

When I did my coil test I just laid the spark plug outside the hole and watched the fireworks! I thought wasted COP was only for a set up like mine- wired like sequential but firing like wasted. Now have some fun tuning

Also I should add that where I installed the coolant temp will not work. I guess I misunderstood how the coolant circulates. I thought coolant from the engine always circulated in the lines but were bypassed at the heater core when not needed. I only show engine temp when I have the heat on. So I guess I will install a ZX thermostat housing so I can have multiple sensors . This way I can keep my car gauge and also have my MS sensor in the same spot .

So I have been teaching my son on how to drive my Z--SCARY. It did allow me to have the laptop in my lap watching all my tuner studio gauges- cool! My balance bar seems to be helping as my MAP reading are steady and I have 55-60 kpa at idle. I didn't much adjusting as I did watching to see what the ranges are like for the MAP sensor. Looks like I need to adjust the map table scale on the kpa side. Since my engine is mostly in the 75-100 range I need to add more levels in that range. Presently it goes right from 80 to 90, I need an 85 step - if possible. As soon as my son gets more comfortable driving my car, I will get more comfortable and watch the laptop more.

I must of had a little luck because so far the MS has been flawless!! It doesn't really matter what level of project you are doing- the mistakes seem to be the easy ones. Keep plugging at it.

Hate to speculate whether the changes are big -especially the butt dyno. I haven't done enough tuning, but I am amazed how well it runs-PERIOD! I spent very little time with the numbers and it accelerates and cruise better then ever. Not a glitch-hope I didn't just jinx myself-LOL I believe I do see about 60 kpa at idle. OTHER then idle it seems a narrow range and as you said it will be a struggle with the ITB syndrome. BUT, the balance tube is doing it's job especially as far as giving me a stable signal. I need to hook up my datalog wire to a switch so I can start datalogging. The other thing that's really stable is my rpm signal-so my flywheel sensor is doing it's job!

What happen to this project?

I run 3.90 gears with my BW T-5 with an L24. Yes the first gears are low, but does it bother me -no. Because of the spread between 2nd and 3rd, 3rd gear makes for a great passing gear. But might be comparing apples to oranges an NA to a turbo motor. I know I like the trans because of it's shifting smoothness. Not sure why you think you are at a crossroads. Changing diffs is an easy process. Your bigger issue -if you haven't already considered this-is that trans needs a dedicated DS from the turbo car, which in turn has a dedicated flange for the Diff. So you might have more issues then you think.

Definetly sounds like somethings going on like a miss or something. You need to install an o2 sensor to eliminate fuel issue. Could be running lean at top end. I'm probably running running your numbers with my L24.

Could this be a simple ignition issue? What ignition are you running? Can you feel the fall off of power or hear it?

With the MS3 I only needed 2 relays wired to power the ECU and the fuel pump. You should already have both relays and you will need to tap into them. You need to study your cars wiring diagram and find where your ignition powers too. If you really want to know how the MS works with your cars wiring , you need to beable to do this part of the wiring. Study the megamanual

Are you using a standard timing light or advance light. Try to get it right on 10 degrees. My trigger angle is 285 degrees, so it doesn't matter where it's at as long as it jives with your settings. I can't open your file but make sure you are using the right spark setting. I imagine you should be set on wasted spark, not semi sequential.

If you know anything about wiring and relays you could save money by NOT getting the relay board and cable. You could use that money to get the trigger wheel. The relays should already be there on your car, just need to have the leads changed.

Please build this 700hp monster and document everything here please. We need a thread like this since we haven't had any in a while. Wish I had some info to contribute, but I'm not as knowledgable as these other guys with the turbo stuff . From what I have read , Jeff P stopped wasting a lot of money and time on the blocks because these lower ends could handle that hp levels, but the rest of the motor needed help. Good luck

Ever get your timing checked?

Have you verified with a timing light?

What reads 10 degrees while cranking-timing light?

Wow, great info to use. So a Chrylser DS for the torqueflite trans has the same input spline, but it's OD is bigger then the Nissan T-5? I don't have nor can I aquire a new bushing for the Nissan t-5, so pressing out the old one gets me nothing except maybe something to match.

Once again, Tony's advice was spot on. Using the red loctite is not the best method. I drove the car after sitting for months and it started the hesistating again. I pulled the bleed pipes and 4 or 5 of the pipes had bleed holes that opened up again. It only took one hole to open up on each bleed pipe to make a difference. At first I thought it might have been from transitioning to the megasquirt ignition, but the characteristics were too similiar. I guess I will solder them at this point. What has worked pretty well is the balance tube for a signal to my MAP sensor. I have read that with a ITB set-up the signal is too jumpy to tune with, but my signal seems very stable. It's really cool to watch it in real time on the laptop! I would really like to change the mounting set-up for the tube though. I want to clean up all the hoses running everywhere and get the balance tube right down on the intake. I have been searching for pneumatic quick disconnects to direct mount the tube to the intake. Being able to quickly disconnect the tube would facilitate quicker tunes. I have a 'clamp' that pinches all the runner hoses for when I am balancing the carbs, but it is a bit cumbersome. It would probably be a bitch to try and quick disconnect 6 runners at the same time though-LOL It will be interesting how the tune goes now that I have full control of ignition. I have looked at Lazeums ignition table and know that I can go way more on the advance at cruise. I have thrown in numbers for now and the engine runs pretty damn good so far. I will be curious how much I can lean out things now that I can advance the timing with so much control. My only concern is that the MAP sensor loading scale is narrow. It seems that other then very light cruise, loading shows in a very narrow band of 80-100%, which is going to make tuning a challenge. Since I haven't done this type of tuning, not sure if this is normal or a symptom of my Mikuni's and the balance tube. Will repositioning of the balance tube closer to the intake make any difference in the signal?