madkaw

Well as I suspected my float levels were not same across all carbs. Not too bad off, but I definitely needed to correct the situation. This did NOT correct the erratic throttle. I resynced the carbs with my vacuum log lines pinched off. I noticed when un-pinching the lines my idle got higher(little bit is normal), but seemed also erratic too. Now here's what I'm trying to figure out. With the vacuum log connected I can go down the line and pinch each hose individually to look for vacuum leaks. Nothing happens until I pinch #1 cylinder hose, then the idle drops and seems more even? If I had a leak somewhere in that line, I would think pinching it would do nothing because you would still have vacuum pulling from either side of the hose-right? If the float was wonky, wouldn't it effect both 1&2? I can effect the idle by adjusting just #1 pilot screw in about 3/16 turn. I have not driven the car yet since adjusting floats-stay tuned

Well it seems that my 'studder' during transition has turned into a random issue now along with an erratic idle. The two seem to be tied together, so when my idle gets erratic(way lean on the wideband), I get more lean during transition and cause the studder. So did I really do anything with my bleed pipes that was good? I don't know since the issue is back. Floats pop up in my mind as the culprit. Not sure what else would effect the idle and the transition. These carbs are too clean to have carbon build up on the pilot screws, but I will investigate. I'll pop the tops off tomorrow and start scrutinizing,

Now that I have had the Mikunis for a while and have tuned and tuned I can only imagine the FUN you are going to encounter with turbo Mikunis

kind of looks like the VR wire in my MS harness.

By the way- watching with MUCH interest. You have a very nice project going there!

I'm no turbo guru but my understanding is that the float bowls need to be pressurized along with the rest of th carbs. The effort will be to keep direct air forces away from the vent opening. Triple Mikuni help thread

Running 17x8.5 wheels +4 You have to beat the front coil perch flat on wheel side, but it will fit . Rear could have handled +10 Wish I had +10 all the way then I could have run spacer up front. Back tires rub now with 245/45. 235's would have cleared inner fender I'm going 225/45/17 next, should clear and look big on 8.5" rims

Thought the bowls need to be pressurized to maintain fuel pressure and level

I guess I thought the float bowls had to be pressurized equal to whatever KPA your running.

So you are saying there is an internal passage on every runner accessed how?

You've made the same mistake I did . That car won't do squat until you fix it. You have covered up your vent holes with your back plate. Take it back off and you will see what I mean. Check out my Mikuni thread.

Doesn't the megamanual show exactly how to wire the LS coils complete with wire color codes? On my d585 coils the pink was hot if I remember.

You should be able to test each coil individually with ms3 and COP. Test each one plugged in ONE AT A TIME- to see if you pinpoint wiring problem

Wow how time flies! I have to look at these old posts so I cam remember when I did what--lol. So now my cheapy fix using the glass packs for resonators is failing. I guess i shouldn't have expected them to last too long at 20$ a piece, but anyways the drone is coming back so I need to do something. I just improved the driving experience by finally eliminating exhaust fumes and now the noise is getting un bearable. So I ponder whether to go with regular turbo mufflers in place of the glasspacks( the ones foward of the diff) or just get a baffled muffler(performance type). I was looking at http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=11500 for a straight thru option. The chambered version would be a bit tougher to fit being an oval type, but I think I can do it. The other aspect of this that do I want install a muffler with future plans to do away with the rear mufflers and replace them with Ansa tips or something. Another words make sure I make the exhaust quiet enough with just two mufflers so I have this option. Honestly don't think I can make this exhaust too quiet with the fact of my headers and long primaries The rear mufflers are Magna flow turbos but they are very small like 10" . And yes the sound is worth all this effort!

Thanks for the input. I will probably have the dash made with both indents and like you said they could be easily filled for those who don't want them. I really want to keep this as stock as possible so all can enjoy. The glove box and heater panel(holes) will be formed as stock. They will be filled with a flat panel, but recessed as to keep the holes fully functional by cutting the panel out-which could be done for the buyer. I was also going to make sure the "filler panel" in these two areas will be vertical enough to make the panel useful for additional gauges -for those non-stock applications. We have already discussed a CF glove box door for the CF dash and the CF wiper panel. The console on the other hand will probably be custom and closer to the later version . If i'm not mistaken these plastic consoles are still available or replicas are available. The pursuit of the console in this case will be to make a CF version for those wanting a CF dash. I want to incorporate a fuse box access and make the shifter opening somewhat flexible for all versions of transmissions. Not sure how I'm going to pull that off, but open to suggestions. Like in my case with the BWT-5 trans the opening needs to be further foward.

Thanks-this is what I am looking for.

Hey guys-this is an open topic. Another words, opinions or suggestions are welcome. I am following thru with this and I do want to get this right. Though it will be a stock duplicate, I want to make sure I don't miss anything. My biggest concern is getting the shape right since I am using an older dash for the mold. I've noticed on my dash(71) compared to other early dashes there was a difference in the shape on the ends of the dash. The ends closest to the door has a top and bottom -if you will- and on my dash the upper half has a slight concave curvature while the bottom half is much flatter. BUT, on a dash that I recovered with a cap last year the bottom half was concave too-maybe more worn? Also. the indentations for the hazard switch. My dash has two indentations, but only one was used for the hazard switch. Can someone weigh in on this?

Welding vise clamps, but some short bungees would be perfect twined through the wheel spokes

sorry-didn't take any. Picture two pieces of 30" bed frame iron. Strap one each iron/steel bar on to the outside of each wheel/tire as high on the assembly as possible while still being able to reach a tape measure under the car from one wheel to the other. I think on mine it was probably 6-8" of the ground-maybe more, but it was below centerline of the wheel. Now measure difference from front to back of the wheel using the bed iron and adjust as needed. I did have my car on wheel dollies so weight of car was on the tires.

I went with the old racers method- according to my sprint car buddy. Clamped some bed iron pieces to the outside of my wheel - low and long enough to beable to rich with a tape measure. Car drives very straight down the road with just 1/8" toe in!

Yes?

Nice day and the car was washed-so what the hell

I bet you have a ton of room on the spring side- I wouldn't go to all that effort to widen the stock fenders and then turn around and put flares on it. 9" wide rim should fit in there perfect if you have the right offset

Coming in this evening, shoot you a pm when I get in. Probably be around until tomorrow night