madkaw

Beermate, Thanks for the info on the rear main return. I finally got the fittings to run a mechanical gauge in parallel with my sending unit. The seal is still there, just not holding the oil back.. It leaves a puddle in the garage floor and it comes out the bottom of the bell housing. When I replaced the previous seal it looked as if the oil was coming from the seal area. Everything else was changed too! Haven't run the car yet with the mechanical guage I am going to have a Speedi Sleeve ready to put on if and when I change out the seal So if the rear main cap was removed I would see this slot for the oil return in the cap itself? The filter bypass wouldn't cause high pressure, but what about the pump relief valve.

Well my memory fails me on how, but I took my T-5 to a driveshaft shop and had it shortened. I'm running the T-5 in my early Z. It cost me 120$-I do remember that. another thing to consider, if not already mentioned, that the U-joints are not replacable.

At 50 years of age I have contemplated a turbo 911. I make good money, but probably a stretch to afford the car and the maintenance(just tires alone are scary!) I really want to own a "super car" before I pass this world, but do I want to be car poor. Then yesterday i finally get my car back on the road after months being on jacks. I go for a small 20 minute ride and get two thumbs up from different folks and a guy in a van ahead of me stops his van at a 4 way stop sign, puts on his 4 way flashers and jumps out of the van with I phone and shouts---"hey can i take a picture of your car". Traffic backing up everywhere!! It may not run like a GTR, but the cool factor is there and so is the driving fun. I do understand where you're at though.

My oil pressure is almost running a constant 70lbs at all times. I plan on running a mechanical guage in parallel shortly, but I believe the guage is fairly accurate-why do I think that... I am on my second rear main seal- and it leaks. I thought for sure the first one was bad, but now I don't think it is the seal. I have read posts about a plugged PCV system will pressurize the system and cause a leak, but I have checked and rechecked that system and replaced the pcv valve. I am running a high volume pump and was running a HP spring. I replaced the HP spring with a regular pump spring a noticed NO difference in pressure. When I had the head off to replace the HG I blew air through the oil passage of the block to the filter and from the pump to the filter and it seemed to flow freely. This engine is fresh with less than 10k miles. I am running a drilled Schneider cam with NO spray bar. I have looked at the FSM and tried to follow the path of oil, but not sure if this told me anything. I am curious about the relief valve that is in the block. The FSM doesn't give any info about this, but it illustrates it in the flow chart. I believe I have a partial blockage and it is driving up my pressure, but not sure about how to find it.The engine runs good and can't see any signs that any component is lacking oil, but don't want to wait for this to manifest itself into a failure. I appreciate any suggestions to help troubleshoot this item. I am going to get the necessary parts to run the mechanical guage in the next few days, so i will report back on those findings.

Another reason not to use the cover is that it is too long and it would have to be modified. Look closely at my valve cover - it was shortened and it will still be tight running the plumbing. So I wouldn't want to cut up a 200$ cover and then have to cap it- or pay someone to cap the CF. Then there was the issue of getting the lettering right side up!

Alex, do you have pics of the n42 head , especially the chambers? Also what year is the l24 ? Finally, what's wrong with the original head?

I remember seeing your set-up while searching. I hoping to see that you continued the project, but alas, another non-blow-thru turbo set-up. Any plans to finish up?

If you have the head off, take the time and make it as detonation proof as possible. Make sure the chambers are unshrouded as much as possible and every sharp edge is softened. Even the spark plug hole threads that are at the end of the chambers-file them smooth. Do you have the book-'How to modify your Datsun engine"? You need to get it and study it. Does the head have the bigger valves? If it does they might hit the cylinder walls on that P-30 block. You'll need to notch your bores. Does the head have a performance head in it? I think your making a decent choice using that L24 block if you know it's okay-the less unknowns the better. If you can't answer the questions above you need to research before you install.

That comment was mostly in jest. I have been all over Monzters pages, and I know the deficiencies of this kind of set up.I have also acquired Corky Bells book. I think I will TRY to resist the temptation to pressurize Mikunis, but I'm a stubborn sometimes. I think this set up will work NA and look cool too!

That sounds GOOD!!!

Though weight is a concern, the majority of the weight with a triples set up is the triples. The CAI(valve cover) is gutted of all webbing and is shortened. So basically you have an aluminum box made from .120 cast.I'm thinking 4lbs with the backing plate. Do you think a fiberglass mold would look as good as polished out aluminum? I do believe the fiberglass type would be the best for weight, but can you pressurize fiberglass

Once I make that committment there is no turning back, but I will sell off my cut-off lips for someone else that changes their mind

TMW induction-now Borla induction 400$ for the air box Look at the cover closely, you will see that it is altered and notice the the Nissan lettering and their orientation.

Jon, that has crossed my mind. The valve cover does lighten up quite a bit once you gut it completely. I was considering struting from the engine mounts to my backing plate.

Sorry for the big pics, I thought I reduced them enough. Moderators-what is the ideal size pic for these forums?

I really wanted a CAI for my Mikuni's, but the choices are slim or costly. I like improvising and was trying to come up with a CAI that I wouldn't have to fabricate from scratch. Looking at the valve cover I realized that the size was right for an airbox, and as far as cosmetics, I think it fits. Some might think its hokey, but I like it and it should work well enough. I still have a lot of clean up and polishing to do, but it has been one of those enjoyable projects. I just need to get my 3" piping to finish my mock up. I should be able to come off with some 45 elbows to get the pipe out in front of the radiator. The most expensive part of this project was paying a welder. I don't have the means to weld aluminum, or this project would have been next to nothing as far as costs. Between paying the welder and piping I will have 250$+ in this. The TMW box is 400$ plus then you would also be buying your piping.

Knowing my daughter she will be working on her law degree as soon as she is finished with flight school. I believe she will always have a back up plan. Modern s-30-if your still in on this thread, thought I'd mention that I pass right through Camby on the way to work if you need anything. I do have a few connections at IUPUI if I can help there also. Pic of my daughter and I in front of her soriority.

My daughter is stoked to get offered such a great position. She is actually interested in being the "bus driver", since she can have a more usable license if she takes this ride back to civilian life. But I see this in my occupation also---especially in management. I see new managers all the time that come in fresh of their degree, because that is what the company wants. They might not know a thing about railroading, but they might have a degree in logistics.

I do study and learn, but I haven't heard of a degree in "Z"ology yet, so... and I guess that was the whole idea of my post, especially concerning my daughter. It's obvious that corporations(yes the USAF) have their own ideas of what best qualifies someone to do a job. Maybe they don't want someone with any pre-existing knowledge, just someone that has an excellent aptitude and attitude. But, you have to have that degree to prove your learning aptitude. Then you get into the leadership stuff...

It's funny in my household how a college education affects all of us differently. I don't have a college degree, some courses, but not close to any degree. I made 100K last year working in a union job. I not sure I could have made that much money with a degree--and I'm still not sure to this day what career I would have educated myself for. So in the end I think college would have been a waste for me.The ironic part of this is that my job allows me time to study sitting in motels, but I have no interest in doing that... which drives my wife nuts, because she needs a degree and doesn't have the time to take courses-though she still does take a class every semester. Now what's funny about this scenerio is that she is next in line to be the Bursur at Indiana University. My wife is incredibly intelligent and runs circles around her fellow workers at the university, but has no degree. It is almost unheard of for a high level employee of a higher education establishment to not have a degree, but my wife does it. Her boss(the Bursur) hired her because of her ability-not her degree-but told her she needs to at least get her associates to make it look good. Now this coming from the Bursur at IU, who has been there 35 years... then you have my daughter that is getting ready to graduate IU with a history major. What good does that college education do----well if you are in ROTC it gets you an officers job in the USAF. Better yet-your going to like this guys---a PILOTS slot in the USAF. My daughter wouldn't know an airfoil if it hit her in the head, but her college education got her a chance at this position--AND---ROTC paid for her education. Don't get me wrong, my daughter is very bright and worked hard to get elected for such a prestigious position in the USAF, but did her degree isn't helping other than getting her in the door. And then you take my son--well he's just 15, but I think his college will be paid for too since he swims like Mikle Phelps!!!!!!! No moral to this story, it's just funny how life is in this regards.

I run that cam with my p30-e88 combo running 9.55 compression. I run 38 degrees advance. Not sure if that helps answer your question. I would do the math to have a combo that gets atleast 9+ CR. Not sure of your concern of using the 42 head That cam is a bit wimpy, you might consider bigger

Yep, get it together the easiest and fastest way and drive it- then you can draw out the big pic. An early e-88 head will be a great combo with flat tops. Freshen up the head and enjoy driving.

Haven't really followed this thread until now, but I will throw in my 2 cents as far as the Subbies. I bought my daughter a 2007 WRX wagon and WOW it's quick and I like the suspension too(Tokico D Specs). It rides like my Z with my KY's and Suspension Techs springs. Utility with the hatchback and speed from the turbo and great handling. I wish I could compare it to other cars, but don't get to drive too many fun cars like you other guys.

I'm also using SS band clamps and I need to use the antsieze stuff myself-it would make life easier when taking my exhaust off. My whole exhaust comes apart in 3 pieces, but getting the down pipes off of the header with slip fit is a PITA

I think it's hard to compare what works for a turbo and non-turbo engine. I have fabbed both and using a "turbo type" muffler on both set-ups,I will say the N/A engine is much louder. The turbo really helps quite the exhaust down at cruise. I am running twice pipes 2" each with resonators AND turbo mufflers and it is border lne too loud. I think if you are at all concerned about noise, a chambered muffler might be best. I think with a header and mandrel bends and larger piping you are not going to hurt flow with a quality chamber muffler. You still will probably have to run a resonator. And I can attest that things get tight under there in a hurry.