madkaw

Thanks for the input guys, looks like I just need to suck it up and replace the rear main seal again-DAMN IT! I think part of the problem with the last time I did it was that it was hard to see what I was doing. I couldn't get the car jacked high enough to pull the tranny completely out of the way. I believe I scared up the crank pulling the old BAD seal out. I wouldn't have been able to see if there was a groove or bad spot on the sealing surface because of the awkward position I was working with. I think this time I am going to pull the motor instead. It's a little more work, but I want to do this right this time. I will have a speedi sleeve ready to install. Hell, i will probably just redo everything, oil pan and side seals-I hate oil leaks!

I just need a dizzy that has no bushing wear. My dizzy has a bad lower bushing and has ruined the shaft. I can swap over my module and pedestal, so hoping to find a good dizzy.

Well wouldn't you know it -the old Datsun guage is fairly accurate! It is slow to react to changes, but at cruise and idle it is fairly close. The slow reaction of the guage is probably why I summized the higher pressure at idle. It takes about a minute for the guage to stablilize at idle. Warm idle(800rpm), 10w40 on a 30 degree day here= 25lbs pressure(stock guage and verified by mechanical) Driving around it seems to hover around the 70lb mark.(stock guage) The mechanical guage is mounted on top of the valve cover right now, so i can't see it while driving. I will have to figure a way to mount it outside the hood tomorrow. So 70lbs would be normal over what rpms?

Cosmetics do count and that puts the Honda fit OUT of the running, but thanks for the input.

The Mazda is in the running , but it's MPG is one of the worst. It does have good reviews.

I own 3 subbies now and the BRZ looks fun, but crashes the budget and not sure on rear wheel drive for a 50 mile commute in all weather, than there is the storage issue. As far as power goes, I bet most all models will have a turbo option I will add that the subbie impreza is a candidate , but hey get really slow trying to get the MPG up. But I guess they all will be slow in this category LOL Not sure about the looks of the new subbies either

Well soon enough my daughter graduates from IU and leaves town, taking the WRX with her( sobbing on both accounts). This leaves dad with a 1996 impreza L that will soon be turned over to my so turns 16 shortly. So, I'm in the market for a new car. Criteria so far: 35 mpg highway Hatchback for hauling **** when I need to Fun driving experience , not a numb steering wheel Peppy for a gas miser, probably will go for a turbo I4 of some kind 20000$ max price Doesn't have to have all the bells and whistles- loving heated seats for my back! Not loyal to any brand I know that you guys own or have driven some of the smaller compacts and would like to hear some comments. My car was in the shop the other day and I had 3 different rentals. A Fiat 500-( I don't think so, very doggy and not enough storage) Honda civic, boring Toyota corolla - non hatchback and also dull Cars I have showed interest in are the Focus GT 2013, Sonic turbo, Hunydia Veloster , Mazda 3, Kia Rio( I know , I know), Dodge Dart coming out.Ford Fiesta . I like the VW GTI, but not sure if it's worth crashing the budget. It seems a lot of manufactures are going turbo 4s for 2013 models, so I might need to wait it out. I know it's a stretch to find something nice for 20k anymore,'but the smaller budget helps keep a higher cash flow for the Z. This will be a car for commuting to work mostly and I drive 50 miles each way. At 50 years young I want something nicer as a daily driver, but also want to drive my Z a lot, so I rather put money in the z to make it comfortable and reliable to drive anytime.

Excellent pics! This really helps me visually. So if there was something blocking that drain in the main, then it could possibly raise pressure and cause the leak at the same time.(just brainstorming here). I will keep you updated.

Beermate, Thanks for the info on the rear main return. I finally got the fittings to run a mechanical gauge in parallel with my sending unit. The seal is still there, just not holding the oil back.. It leaves a puddle in the garage floor and it comes out the bottom of the bell housing. When I replaced the previous seal it looked as if the oil was coming from the seal area. Everything else was changed too! Haven't run the car yet with the mechanical guage I am going to have a Speedi Sleeve ready to put on if and when I change out the seal So if the rear main cap was removed I would see this slot for the oil return in the cap itself? The filter bypass wouldn't cause high pressure, but what about the pump relief valve.

Well my memory fails me on how, but I took my T-5 to a driveshaft shop and had it shortened. I'm running the T-5 in my early Z. It cost me 120$-I do remember that. another thing to consider, if not already mentioned, that the U-joints are not replacable.

At 50 years of age I have contemplated a turbo 911. I make good money, but probably a stretch to afford the car and the maintenance(just tires alone are scary!) I really want to own a "super car" before I pass this world, but do I want to be car poor. Then yesterday i finally get my car back on the road after months being on jacks. I go for a small 20 minute ride and get two thumbs up from different folks and a guy in a van ahead of me stops his van at a 4 way stop sign, puts on his 4 way flashers and jumps out of the van with I phone and shouts---"hey can i take a picture of your car". Traffic backing up everywhere!! It may not run like a GTR, but the cool factor is there and so is the driving fun. I do understand where you're at though.

My oil pressure is almost running a constant 70lbs at all times. I plan on running a mechanical guage in parallel shortly, but I believe the guage is fairly accurate-why do I think that... I am on my second rear main seal- and it leaks. I thought for sure the first one was bad, but now I don't think it is the seal. I have read posts about a plugged PCV system will pressurize the system and cause a leak, but I have checked and rechecked that system and replaced the pcv valve. I am running a high volume pump and was running a HP spring. I replaced the HP spring with a regular pump spring a noticed NO difference in pressure. When I had the head off to replace the HG I blew air through the oil passage of the block to the filter and from the pump to the filter and it seemed to flow freely. This engine is fresh with less than 10k miles. I am running a drilled Schneider cam with NO spray bar. I have looked at the FSM and tried to follow the path of oil, but not sure if this told me anything. I am curious about the relief valve that is in the block. The FSM doesn't give any info about this, but it illustrates it in the flow chart. I believe I have a partial blockage and it is driving up my pressure, but not sure about how to find it.The engine runs good and can't see any signs that any component is lacking oil, but don't want to wait for this to manifest itself into a failure. I appreciate any suggestions to help troubleshoot this item. I am going to get the necessary parts to run the mechanical guage in the next few days, so i will report back on those findings.

Another reason not to use the cover is that it is too long and it would have to be modified. Look closely at my valve cover - it was shortened and it will still be tight running the plumbing. So I wouldn't want to cut up a 200$ cover and then have to cap it- or pay someone to cap the CF. Then there was the issue of getting the lettering right side up!

Alex, do you have pics of the n42 head , especially the chambers? Also what year is the l24 ? Finally, what's wrong with the original head?

I remember seeing your set-up while searching. I hoping to see that you continued the project, but alas, another non-blow-thru turbo set-up. Any plans to finish up?

If you have the head off, take the time and make it as detonation proof as possible. Make sure the chambers are unshrouded as much as possible and every sharp edge is softened. Even the spark plug hole threads that are at the end of the chambers-file them smooth. Do you have the book-'How to modify your Datsun engine"? You need to get it and study it. Does the head have the bigger valves? If it does they might hit the cylinder walls on that P-30 block. You'll need to notch your bores. Does the head have a performance head in it? I think your making a decent choice using that L24 block if you know it's okay-the less unknowns the better. If you can't answer the questions above you need to research before you install.

That comment was mostly in jest. I have been all over Monzters pages, and I know the deficiencies of this kind of set up.I have also acquired Corky Bells book. I think I will TRY to resist the temptation to pressurize Mikunis, but I'm a stubborn sometimes. I think this set up will work NA and look cool too!

That sounds GOOD!!!

Though weight is a concern, the majority of the weight with a triples set up is the triples. The CAI(valve cover) is gutted of all webbing and is shortened. So basically you have an aluminum box made from .120 cast.I'm thinking 4lbs with the backing plate. Do you think a fiberglass mold would look as good as polished out aluminum? I do believe the fiberglass type would be the best for weight, but can you pressurize fiberglass

Once I make that committment there is no turning back, but I will sell off my cut-off lips for someone else that changes their mind

TMW induction-now Borla induction 400$ for the air box Look at the cover closely, you will see that it is altered and notice the the Nissan lettering and their orientation.

Jon, that has crossed my mind. The valve cover does lighten up quite a bit once you gut it completely. I was considering struting from the engine mounts to my backing plate.

Sorry for the big pics, I thought I reduced them enough. Moderators-what is the ideal size pic for these forums?

I really wanted a CAI for my Mikuni's, but the choices are slim or costly. I like improvising and was trying to come up with a CAI that I wouldn't have to fabricate from scratch. Looking at the valve cover I realized that the size was right for an airbox, and as far as cosmetics, I think it fits. Some might think its hokey, but I like it and it should work well enough. I still have a lot of clean up and polishing to do, but it has been one of those enjoyable projects. I just need to get my 3" piping to finish my mock up. I should be able to come off with some 45 elbows to get the pipe out in front of the radiator. The most expensive part of this project was paying a welder. I don't have the means to weld aluminum, or this project would have been next to nothing as far as costs. Between paying the welder and piping I will have 250$+ in this. The TMW box is 400$ plus then you would also be buying your piping.

Knowing my daughter she will be working on her law degree as soon as she is finished with flight school. I believe she will always have a back up plan. Modern s-30-if your still in on this thread, thought I'd mention that I pass right through Camby on the way to work if you need anything. I do have a few connections at IUPUI if I can help there also. Pic of my daughter and I in front of her soriority.