madkaw

Is that a Nismo Gasket?

I talked to Todd at Wolfcreek. Todd was emphatic about getting the accelerator pumps working properly. He says that due to the age of these carbs and if they have been sitting, it may take some time to get the pumps fully primed. He said to make sure I get a visual confirmation on this. Tony, I had a hard time buying the acclerator pump because I was increasing the throttle so slowly that I thought they wouldn't be a factor-but I guesws I might be wrong. Maybe that's old Holley carb mentality!! Secondly, I might have skimped where I shouldn't and installed the carbs on a used intake gasket. The gasket wasn't very old, but it did have SU's mounted to it earlier. So I could have a vacuum leak that is only showing up slightly above idle, which in turn is leaning my primary too much. I shot propane around the gasket at idle-no changes. The car once warmed up idles great. Thirdly, he didn't approve of my float adjustment method. He told me to hang the float on the seat and measure. The manual also shows measuring the fuel level in the bowl, but Todd said forget that. Todd said once I check all these items, then and only then do I increase jet sizes. From all my searching, the jets in the carbs now should be good enough for my set up. I will also give a SHOUT OUT to Todd for his patience. He comes off gruff-especially if you call him unprepared to answer specific questions, but in the end he was a good guy and realy wanted to help out. I have also ordered from him before and he was fast and accurate with his stuff.

Do your plugs look normal-do they have any color? Does the engine sound flat like it's running out of gas? Adjusted nozzles to hit lean and rich walls???? This sounds beyond a nozzle adjustment. I've got an adjustable sprocket on my L24 and minor degree changes didn't exibit the symptoms you see. I've played with as much as 6-9 degrees and the changes were noticable, but they were small. It almost sounds like your floats are lean. That would make it flat, but it would still rev out-just no power. You could try tweeking them to high side and see what that does. If you were off a tooth on the cam, that would be a different story. Sure you counted the links exact from sprocket to sprocket? You said the cam was installed straight up-did you degree the cam in or just set it on the first hole. My schnedier installed on the first hole showed up retarted on the degree wheel. Variances in the rocker arms will show up on the wheel. And of course-valve adjustment is crucial. Igniton timing looks good for power. Running proper impedence coil for the pertronix? Alternator putting out a strong 14 volts for your ignition?

Leon, I don't think the numbers correspond . Those jets are exactly what Mikuni installed as a bolt on upgrade. Todd at wolfcreek said the numbers are close. The AFRs were 14+ at idle, not sure before it stalls.

L24 -stage 2 cam, headers, electronic ignition. Car ran great before installing Mikuni's Mikuni's look new inside and out-40phh 180 main air 140 main jet 57.5 pilot Not sure on the pump nozzle Float levels checked-seemed low, but after talking to Todd at Wolfcreek I might need to back in and check them Dialed in for best idle is about 2.5 turns out on the pilots Electric pump running 3.5 to 4psi Car idles smoothly and engine will rev up pretty freely. But, when I very slowly increase the throttle off idle, it will increase rpm until about 2000 rpm then die, and I mean die. It seems revving up the engine the accelerator pump will bypass this dead spot, but I would need to rev up the motor constantly. As it is, it is undrivable. Wideband showed around 14afr at idle, but plugs were pretty sooty after an attempted drive-probably because i had to constantly rev it up. Todd asked me to make sure the accelerator pumps were actually working-visually, and as best as I can see and hear, the pumps are working. He felt it could be a transition issue. I thought maybe the primary jets might be small, but honestly I am guessing a bit with these carbs.

Innovate

My AFR guage has been a little erratic lately. It seems to do okay at cruise, but during WOT and other times the guage drops full lean occasionally. I did some searching and it seems that coolant can contaminate the sensor and I did recently have a head gasket go which in turn put coolant in the exhaust. Anyone confirm this before I lay out the money for another sensor? I will add the the guage worked great before this and I have checked all wires and pulled the O2 sensor out and recalibrated it according to the manual. I have also checked for loose grounds or wires.

Nice numbers for a basically stock 280ET with good engine management-excellent!

I'd love to do an Ikea kitchen based on looking at their showroom. I can't testify to their quality , but you got to love those drawers on the cabinets.

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A quick question reagarding the vacuum log. Anyone see any issues with hooking up a PCV on one end of the vacuum log while hooking up my MC booster on the other end?

Well I'm not the best at the computer stuff and I can't open my dyno files sent to me from the Dyno operator. The files are DRF files which windows does not recognize. I've tried going to the Dyno jet web sites but it seems that most of the programs or software is for the dyno operators. Does anyone have a direct link for the computer impaired person like me. I would really like to put up my sheets(though nothing to impressive) to share, but I can't and don't know what to do here.

Try Wolf Creek racing-google it!

You could try tweaking the floats up richer, you maybe running lean in WOT.

When I read Corky Bells turbo charging book he pretty much condemned the idea of thicker gaskets to alter compression. Basically don't mess with the squish if you don't know what your doing. You might make things worse with a thicker gasket and have worse detonation - If you have any now.

Sleeve ordered from Rock auto!! Now off to the dyno before tearing it down to do this job .

Sam, thanks, didn't know there was that option available. I thought Speedi sleeve was my only option. I will check out rock-auto's page.

Pete, thanks so much for the measurements. I went to the Speedi Sleeve site and this is what I came up with according to your info According to this page http://www.skf.com/files/344136.pdf item 99315 seems to be the correct choice for our shaft-does anyone agree or disagree?

I have no idea what your saying

I might ask while you have your trophy out , to measure for the depth of the flange , also, if you can determine how deep the flywheel sits on the flange. I want to make sure the Speedi sleeve is the proper depth and does not interfere with the flywheel mounting. Thanks

Thanks so much for posting that. I bet those mice are close enough. Maybe someone else will chime in and verify your measurement

Ummm, I know what a Speedi sleeve is and how it works and yes I have seen that video. What I need is a measurement !!!!!!

I know it would be nice to have a 6" dial calipers. but I don't. I need to buy a cheapo set at harbor frieght as stated. I have gotten by without forever and my small collection of smaller OD mics have gotten me by. Harbor frieght is an hour away, so if someone could help me out it would be appreciated. I am trying to get this taken care while I am home for spring break with my son. Someone is loaning me their engine hoist and I don't want to have it for longer than need be.

Thanks for the reply, but I should have stated that this was for the rear main seal. I will look thru the thread but appears this is relevant to the front snout area. I need the OD of the crank where the flywheel mounts.

Hey guys, I need a little help here. I want to order a Speedi sleeve for my engine and I don't have mics big enough to measure the end of my crank. I checked the FSM, but no luck there either. If someone can measure for me I would appreciate it!!