madkaw

Pulled the head and here some pics. I don't see anything that jumps out at me, but not sure what to look for. #3 cylinder firering has some"discoloration" around where the water comes thru the head. Looks like #3 is the worse and #6 looked like it was getting there This pics are BIG-sorry, but you might see more detail this way Any ideas

That's what pissed me off. About 97% of these engines have cameras, but this engine didn't.

Yes I was the engineer and that was my first collision. The yellow mass is a catapillar dump truck frame that was loaded on to the low boy. It got stuck in the wrong place at the wrong time. I do feel lucky that we only experienced that much damage. I was on the floor waiting on the impact and possible derail. It was a very loud bang to say the least. I would venture that he wasn't completely centered over the crossing or it would have been worse. What's funny is where my train stopped. There was an empty train car stopped right by the truck at the crossing that we actually use to haul this type of equipment. He should have just loaded it up and we could have shipped it for him. The driver was on his last trip before retiring-WOW.

http://effinghamdailynews.com/local/x1953746100/Train-semitrailer-collision-closes-crossings

P-30 block with original 1971 e-88-probably 10 to 1 compression. I think my head CC'd at 39.5, but I also notched the bores for bigger valves. Stock head gasket that came with rebuild kit-probably not the highest quality gasket. Justed rented a coolant pressure system guage from Autozone. Never did this type test before, but followed instructions and set pressure to 13lbs on the tester and started car. Pressure very slowly creeped until the engine started to gain temp and then it started rising quickly. Instructions stated to pull plug wires one by one while running to see if diffuses pressure. I went directly for #3 plug(suspect area) and the pressure immediately stopped rising. #3 was carbon fouled, but showed 180 on a compression test? Any thoughts????

Car was running excellent the other day then she started to run like she had a slight miss and down a bit on power. I pull the plugs and #3 looks carbon fouled. I had just pulled the plugs a couple hundred miles ago and they looked perfect. So I'm thinking bad wire or plug. I put on some Bosch wires that were almost new and cleaned of the plugs. I also changed my wideband O2 sensor around to the other pipe(duals) to see if the banks are running consistent-which they were close). I go for a long ride and pull the plugs again and the front 3 have a greenish tint to them. I have never had any overheating problems with this engine, the 3 core runs cool-always. The engine always started easily-never labored the starter. Timing is set at 20 initial with the vacuum advance disconnected. I am running 36 degrees all in. My exhaust is loud, but never heard anything I could call detonation. Compression test showed 175 to 180 all the way across. The kicker is that she's spitting fluid out the pipes now. I guess the question will be-WHY! Maybe I was too optimistic with my timing. I have about 5k miles since complete rebuild. Any feedback would be appreciated. What should I be looking for when I pull the head off to help me determine the cause? Lastly, can I tie this in with a persistant oil leak from the rear main? Would a small breach in the head gasket near a oil passage pressurize the oil?

I have a real nice clean set-pm me

There's a datsun 510 site that lists all applicable Subaru LSDs that will bolt in with no mods. Try searching 510 sites. The early LSds from subby will bolt in, but it is only just a few years that work. It's a rare find if you have the right year! good luck

Anyone want to verify my math???

I have 5 9mm rods. Somehow in all my moving I have lost one I guess. They still have the pistons on them- 100$ shipped OBO

Okay, let me see if i am adding this up right. My air box dimensions are 3X5X22 which figures to be 330 cubic inches. So I am covered for my 150 cubic inch p-30---right?

Interested in this thread! I have also studied a bit about plenum size and I believe I have read the same numbers you have found. I like your design with the center inlet, just makes it tougher to fit in our cars. I am currently making an airbox for my 2.4, I get confused on the math to figure volume size of the airbox compared to engine size.

+1

I thought it had too much play for my liking. I probably loosened the rubber when I welded on new tabs to the mount. I tried to use a heat sink, but who knows it might already been bad. I had come up with a cable set up that I could run over the top of the tailshaft and moored at the mount using eye/bolts, but hadn't got around to hooking it up. This maybe also why I still get some clunk noise while blipping the throttle at lower rpm. Thanks for the conformation on that---aahhh-another thing on the to-do list.

I have a high speed driveline vibration around 100mph. It almost sounds like it has a rhythm to the vibration. I am running a 82 T-5 to a r-200. The driveshaft was supposedly balanced at the time I modified the shaft for the T-5 swap. I have also had the half shafts balanced recently. I am running the Rt mount and think I have driveshaft set-up right as far as angles. I modified my original trans mount to adapt to the T-5. I believe I might have compromised the integrity of the rubber on the mount since I welded on it. I can push up on the tail shaft and get movement without much effort( one arm push up). I guess my question here-would a loose trans mount just exacerbate a vibration or actually be the cause of the vibration? I was considering a modification of the mount to secure the tranny tighter to the mount-is there any consideration with that?

John, is your statement based on too much cam and compression to make even a low boost turbo set-up-just curious?

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I might have a local connection, but I will let you know shortly. Again-thanks

It will be hard to build an engine with No Regrets. All of us are tinkerers, and are wanting to try something different. I sold off a low mileage turbo motor and now wish i kept it. I did build a strong platform to build on, so I can tweak to my hearts desire. No matter what block you use, it will take a lot of time and tune to see it's potential. Though my 2.4 is mild compared to a lot of these engines on this site- the visceral experience of sound and fun driving of this car keeps me engaged. Start mild then go wild with upgrades. I'm starting with SUs then moving on to Mikunis then maybe a bigger cam or turbo with mild boost and megasquirt.

I need a valve cover to cut up! So condition isn't much of an issue- I want to get away cheap here, so something close to Indiana for cheap shipping.

If anyone wonders why I picked the exhaust forum, it's because I had posted before about my dual exhausts on my L24, but never had really posted a good video of the sound. I had comments that the exhaust would not sound right on an inline motor, but I must disagree. I think it's a great compromise between the beefy sound of a v8 motor and the smoothness of the inline6. Does it do anything for my performance-don't know honestly, but I believe the SU's are somewhat of a restriction for this good breathing exhaust. The Mikunis are waiting for the airbox to be finished and they go on. I truly believe the Mikunis will wake this motor up combined with this exhaust. Please ignore the 3rd gear grind! Also ignore the geek driving this cool car!

Life is good-- a day -off and a cruise in the Z Turn it up!

watching this thread in hopes of answers for my vibration at 100+mph. don,t mean to highjack here, but would a failing tranny mount cause this also? I can under the car and push up on the mount and get it to move upward a good half inch with effort. Hope this question ties in with this thread?

There was a thread which i posed the same question-except it involved a Mikuni manifold. The general consensus was to leave it alone because there is a reason for the step-as you have stated. Unless your are building a race motor, I would leave the step there---IMHO

The ACC valve is right on top of the intake. In the picture below it is the tallest diaphram in the pic with the vacuum plug on it. You need to have that and a good working VCM( sits under the mass air sensor)

Are you getting any closer to another run of axles? About ready to throw my hat in the ring!