madkaw

Getting ready to degree my cam again-since I have the head off right now for a HG issue. I was staring at my cam card yesterday and realized that the numbers were just numbers too me, no real understanding of what the cam designer was looking to do.. I been reading this lately-- http://www.datsport.com/racer-brown.html---- to try an educate myself on cams and engine building. I have a 270f cam from schneider and after doing some reading I was curious as to what changes were made by Schneider to modify the stock carbed cam. From reading this racer Brown article it seems that the stock cams used an arbitrary valve lift number of .020 for degreeing points. My cam card is at the more standard .050 number, so there is no way to make a direct comparison. I was wondering if any of you engine builders have translated the stock cam number using the .050 lift numbers? This way I could compare what Schneider did with their modifications. I was hoping that someone could go put up a cam card and explain the contents of the cam card. Another thing i got from reading this article was that one focused on getting the closing of the intake valve correct as the number 1 priority. It was stated in the article that the slack in the timing chain causes a retarding of the timing. So if I could only get close to the numbers on the card with my non-adjustable cam sprocket-it would be better to favor an advanced timing since the chain will only cause the timing to retard. Any suggestions on measuring piston to valve clearance?

Found this searching the Subby sites, they are specifying the oil for clutch type. The subby stuff is the green gear oil. I read on many posts that the guys won't deviate from the OEM oil Thank you for your patience. I researched this in our Technical Service Manuals. No, the LSD gear oil used in your 2006 WRX STI is not used in the 2007 WRX STI. In the Technical Service Manual for your 2006 WRX STI Sedan, it states: Mechanical LSD oil MUST be used for STI model. Recommended oil - Gear oil LSD (Subaru part # K0305Y0900), GL-5 (90) or equivalent. In the Technical Service Manual for the 2007 WRX STI Sedan, it states: Recommended gear oil: GL-5 (75W-90) or equivalent.

I've never had to service a LSD diff so i am not familiar with the additives you speak of Jon. I guess these will be available at the parts store. So an additive is necessary regardless what type of LSD you use(torsion, clutch,etc..)?? And the viscosity of oil?

Well I went to the auto parts store to get some gear oil for my newly aquired 2005 STI diff. They had no listing or info on what oil was recommended for this type diff. So off to Google land I went and found many answers. It seems though that the clutch type uses a very specific oil to work properly. I noticed what came out of my diff was green in color, so I presume that is the stock stuff from subaru. I finally found a part# k0305y0900 for the subby fluid and I guess the diff just takes one quart. Like to here what you guys have found concerning this.

Mike, I am jealous of the fact that you have owned such a super car as the Porsche 911. I have considered and still consider giving up the Z and buying a "super car" while I am young enough to enjoy it.Lately I have had a herniated disc issues which is taking the fun out of working on my Z and it will take more work than my back can handle to even come close to a super car with a Z. It seems that a used porsche 911 turbo might be the best bang for buck as far as buying a used super car. For myself, the early Z is hard to top as far as looks(modified with wheels, etc...), but I really do like the 911. I have never driven a car of this caliper, so I can only speculate the experience. I have driven a 95-911n/a and it was very sweet. If a person was willing to spend 50-60K, wouldn't you say the 911 would be the wisest choice for a super car experience and still have a daily driver? Maybe I can get lucky and keep both cars, but as a family man that's not rich, I think it might be asking too much. Also like your choice on a bike-also my choice when I can get one.

Since your building a N/A motor you should try and go back to that Maxima and see if has the MN47 head on it. That on your L24 block would make a killer street machine. Go to the FAQ's on this site and read BRAAP's thread on heads. Would have loved to see that blow-thru setup running!

Like the title reads, I need the studs that fit into the diff cover. They are smaller than the r200 and that's all I have. Willing to trade or pay by money order for some decent ones. Contact me by e-mail stephen_finnerty@yahoo.com

Sure it's the right MC and the pushrod is properly adjusted in the back of the MC. Kind of sound likes like what happened with my wildwood brakes on initial install. The pushrod was too short, but the brakes worked, but not very well and the pedal felt like no booster.

Need a little better sound production of that sick motor- freaking race car you got there!

Nissan sells a head gasket for the 240 that is 1.2 thick- pricey 150$

I'm going to stick with my high dollar fancy smancy Nismo Super composite - better then titanium gasket for the 240-260 for 163$ with shipping- the wife will be estatic!

I actually plugged in the number today and they were 40$!!! I wish I knew if I could use them on my p-30 block. The description on the gasket I ordered does specify that it is a Nismo high performance composite type head gasket---FANCY! the 40$ gasket has no such description

I understand that there would be a difference in bore size, but what else would be different on the L6 blocks. I have also learned by ordering a gasket that some have all the coolant passages open and some don't. In my case with a p-30 block where I have notched the bores for bigger valves, I wonder if a l28 head gasket might not be better since the notching is very close to the fire ring-less chance of getting under the gasket. I have searched on all the Z sites and have found very little specific info on this.

I never had any cooling issues what so ever with my engine, but I'm not hardly pushing 200hp at most. Would an 83 gasket work on a p-30 block? Is is a Nissan gasket? Nevermind, I just reread your post.(nissan) Courtesy had cheaper Nissan gaskets for later years, but I wasn't sure I could use those. I searched for a while and couldn't find a definitive answer

Just ordered my 150$ gasket-OUCH!

Hey Tony, in the market for a Nissan gasket and plugged the above part#11044-R1005 in at courtesy nissan and they are about 50$, so you better order some. Now I searched the Nissan # 11044-E4620 for my 240 and it's 150$. Not sure why their is a big difference unless the 240 gasket is made up of a different material.

Well unfortunetly, I think I got the same garbage . What really concerns me is the difference in the coolant passages. If you look at the first pic of the gasket that I had on there, half of the coolant passages were blocked by the gasket. On the Victor reinz gasket they are all open? Also asked the Rock Auto sales rep to pull a gasket and tell me the make up of the gasket. I told him that i was not interested in a fiber board type of gasket, and of course thats what I got:( I guess that's what I get for trying to go cheap.

Tony My experiment was on a fresh rebuild with the block oil passage enlarged. The only fault in my experiment was the fact I used a drill to turn the pump and that might not have been enough rpm to apply enough pressure-2800. I did verify pressure with a guage and visually verified the spray bar oil not reaching the folowers. This was a high pressure pump. I had a thread on classiczcar documenting this

Just read through this thread trying to get insight on my clunk issue. I am also running RT mount and all my suspension bushings have been replaced. I also have had a high speed driveline vibration. I concluded that all these items were related to a compromised tranny mount(welded on and probably ruined rubber). I recently moored my tranny down with a cable set up and the tranny is now very secure against the rubber mount-and the clunk is still there. I think I got rid of my high speed vibration-still need more testing-but my clunk during gear changes(mostly at lower rpms) is still there. Please keep this thread updated. I will be changing out my R200 for a STI r180 and we will see if the diff has anything to do with my clunk

Well one benefit from this job was finding an exhaust leak that I knew I had but couldn't see. Damn MSA header had a dimple on the flange right below #4 - it was pissing out right there- time for JB weld .

5000 + miles on my schneider cam and it looks perfect. I have read of cams that the holes were not drilled through properly. And I have tested running both hollow camAND spray bar and it didn't work as well as you think. The hollow bar takes to much pressure or volume away from the spray bar and the oil never sprays far enough to do any good. I also run additive with very oil change

Took the head to the machine shop so they could chek flatness with a good straight edge. Since the head is still assembled he could go right down the middle, but on either side longitudinally he couldn't get a feeler guage under anywhere. He attempted to measure diagonally and he was able to get a .015 guage under the straight edge towards the middle of the head. Not sure if that equates to anything, but he felt that on that long of a head, it was probably OK. Ordered some Victor Reinz gaskets from Rock-Auto. They are having a close out on them right now and they are only 9.96$ They are some kind of metal gasket with a composite covering-similiar to what I pulled off. I guess if they don't hold I will try a Nissan gasket at 150$$

I'm seeing something around the five o'clock-is that an oil gallery right next to it? The reason I ask this is because I have been having a oil leak on thr rear main and I have changed everything. Is it possible this compression leak could in anyway pressurize the oil system enough to cause blow by on the rear main?

Pete, I know it's hard to tell with these pics, but where are you seeing the blow by--o'clock position? I guess I will take the head to a machinist that probably has a better straight edge and have them look at it. thanks

Well if no one has ideas I guess I will just slap another gasket on there and hope for the best