madkaw

Certain years actaully had two different float level settings, the front being different from the year. Might have better luck searching SU carb float settings on Google.

I have decided on the Sonic turbo. It's the only compact under 20k with a turbo option that gets 40mpg highway. I'm impressed with the rear leg room and the cargo is ample with the rear seats down. It runs on 87 octane - a few pennies saved there. Engine has more potential - the euro versions of the L 4 turbo are 195hp. I have read very few negatives on the car, though it is a fairly new model. Looks------ I own a 240z , so nothing in this price range looks comparable . The Fords look good but are more expensive and less powerful. I don't have time for a Datsun wagon project, but sounds fun!

I know Subaru will be the safest bet, but they aren't cheap. I know you get what you pay for, but looking for a cheap commuter under 20k leaves the Subaru out. I own subarus now and they are great cars, but no 40mpg cars and I don't really need AWD. - my wife has that. (Forester) I'm putting a deposit down on the Sonic after reading tons of reviews on the car. Wish me luck on buying a GM product!

Local dealership just received a LTZ Sonic L 4 turbo and I drove it the other day . For what it is, cheap compact , I was impressed. Good power and a good power band made it very peppy indeed. Lots of room and decent ride. The six speed was a bit overkill since there was no difference hardly between 5th and 6 th, but I guess 40mpg calls for it. I'd buy one and just might

I just received my ZG flares today and have a question about fit also. The fit was pretty good on all but one flare, the driver's side front. I know the molds are old and the fit has to be worked, but the front driver's wasn't looking right. After closer inspection I noticed that the flare was "trimmed up" a little too much I believe. It seems that the flares have a small "flange" area around the upper edge that lays against the body. The problem with my driver's front is that this flange is gone? Check out the pics and someone confirm for me that this flare is NOT right. I have contacted the vendor, but I want the opinion of someone that has done this.

Anyone used a Speedi sleeve on their crank? I plan on having a Speedi sleeve on hand when I pull my motor to find my oil leak(which is more likely the rear main). I guess I was hoping someone had made this repair and would let me know what size sleeve you used and how it worked out for you. I would think the size would be the same for all L6 motors. As I type this I just remembered I have my original p-30 sitting in my barn which still has the crank sitting in there-soooo I guess I could measure myself, if I trust my mics -I still will put this thread out there for others and possible feedback.

I meant using the lips for some isolated rust repair that always happens in that area-since my fenders are rust free. If you have ever seen aftermarket repair lips you would want some leftovers from this job!

I'm guessing Indiana University and a lot of studying!

Good advice and i will keep that in mind. Took the car into the DS shop and they put it on the lift and checked the 'angle of the dangle'. With the RT mount in the originally configured position the shop said it was good to go-very good they said! Sooooo, my adjustment was obviously fu@ked up and I don't know how to measure that angle properly. My adjustment involved lowering the nose of the diff a good 1/2" or better-which on a 30" DS was too much. Now wouldn't you know the vibration is much better now. I took the car up to 115mph and it was fairly smooth. I believe I still have work to do in other areas, but I feel much better KNOWING that the angle is right and the DS is balanced. Elimanating that stuff makes troubleshooting better and easier. It's nice to know that since I made my own RT mount that I did that right. A comment was made by the tech about NVH. He implied that I will always here more noises and feel more vibrations because the way my car is set up. He was probably refering to my semi solid trans tailshaft mount and my semi rigidly mounted exhaust.

Your pics are too big! I wanted to do the same thing-but for the opposite camber. My s-30 coupe has 245/45/17 with suspension techniques 1" lowering springs. If I could get another 1/4" of inboard movement the top of my tires would probably not rub, but the spring hats are hard up against the inboard wall now by slotting the holes. My camber is only -3/4 degree now, so I could afford the extra negative and than I wouldn't need flares!!

Took the DS back to the shop and had it rechecked and wouldn't you know it ran perfectly balanced on their machine. So I'm taking the car in and have the shop check the driveline angle. I had made a change to the RT mount angle based on my measurements and it vibrates there, so I'm changing it back to the RT angle and taking to the shop.

No longer needed-thanks guys

I will add that I am currently having vibration issues, and not sure if it is the driveshaft. I am going to take it back to have it checked.

Anyone have a crank available in front of them to measure for a speedi sleeve? I imagine all the cranks are the same since all the seals are interchangable. I would like to have this preordered before I pull my engine and want to see if speedi sleeve has the correct size for our application.

Well I'm reporting back in on this issue and it's NOT resolved. I did moor the rear of the tranny down against the mount. I actuallu used a cable set-up(sorry no pics at this time), but it did eliminate the movement of the rear of the tranny. I still have the vibration and now I guess I am back to the driveshaft. I had the T-5 shortened by a reputable driveshaft specialty shop, but I question just the same. It seems the only thing left to try. I have had the half shafts checked and have my Subbie diff installed and still the same issue. Maybe the shop didn't get the drive shaft set-up right. I checked driveline angle and to the best of my knowledge i found that thr RT mount didn't put th diff at a low enough angle, so I lowered it-this was a while back and didn't change anything. The reason I think that my set-up was different and needed the change is because my custom tranny mount for the T-5. I am going to reset the RT mount back to stock setting and try once more. The driveshaft shop is equipped to measure and check this also, which is what i will probably will have done.

Thanks for the input guys, looks like I just need to suck it up and replace the rear main seal again-DAMN IT! I think part of the problem with the last time I did it was that it was hard to see what I was doing. I couldn't get the car jacked high enough to pull the tranny completely out of the way. I believe I scared up the crank pulling the old BAD seal out. I wouldn't have been able to see if there was a groove or bad spot on the sealing surface because of the awkward position I was working with. I think this time I am going to pull the motor instead. It's a little more work, but I want to do this right this time. I will have a speedi sleeve ready to install. Hell, i will probably just redo everything, oil pan and side seals-I hate oil leaks!

I just need a dizzy that has no bushing wear. My dizzy has a bad lower bushing and has ruined the shaft. I can swap over my module and pedestal, so hoping to find a good dizzy.

Well wouldn't you know it -the old Datsun guage is fairly accurate! It is slow to react to changes, but at cruise and idle it is fairly close. The slow reaction of the guage is probably why I summized the higher pressure at idle. It takes about a minute for the guage to stablilize at idle. Warm idle(800rpm), 10w40 on a 30 degree day here= 25lbs pressure(stock guage and verified by mechanical) Driving around it seems to hover around the 70lb mark.(stock guage) The mechanical guage is mounted on top of the valve cover right now, so i can't see it while driving. I will have to figure a way to mount it outside the hood tomorrow. So 70lbs would be normal over what rpms?

Cosmetics do count and that puts the Honda fit OUT of the running, but thanks for the input.

The Mazda is in the running , but it's MPG is one of the worst. It does have good reviews.

I own 3 subbies now and the BRZ looks fun, but crashes the budget and not sure on rear wheel drive for a 50 mile commute in all weather, than there is the storage issue. As far as power goes, I bet most all models will have a turbo option I will add that the subbie impreza is a candidate , but hey get really slow trying to get the MPG up. But I guess they all will be slow in this category LOL Not sure about the looks of the new subbies either

Well soon enough my daughter graduates from IU and leaves town, taking the WRX with her( sobbing on both accounts). This leaves dad with a 1996 impreza L that will soon be turned over to my so turns 16 shortly. So, I'm in the market for a new car. Criteria so far: 35 mpg highway Hatchback for hauling **** when I need to Fun driving experience , not a numb steering wheel Peppy for a gas miser, probably will go for a turbo I4 of some kind 20000$ max price Doesn't have to have all the bells and whistles- loving heated seats for my back! Not loyal to any brand I know that you guys own or have driven some of the smaller compacts and would like to hear some comments. My car was in the shop the other day and I had 3 different rentals. A Fiat 500-( I don't think so, very doggy and not enough storage) Honda civic, boring Toyota corolla - non hatchback and also dull Cars I have showed interest in are the Focus GT 2013, Sonic turbo, Hunydia Veloster , Mazda 3, Kia Rio( I know , I know), Dodge Dart coming out.Ford Fiesta . I like the VW GTI, but not sure if it's worth crashing the budget. It seems a lot of manufactures are going turbo 4s for 2013 models, so I might need to wait it out. I know it's a stretch to find something nice for 20k anymore,'but the smaller budget helps keep a higher cash flow for the Z. This will be a car for commuting to work mostly and I drive 50 miles each way. At 50 years young I want something nicer as a daily driver, but also want to drive my Z a lot, so I rather put money in the z to make it comfortable and reliable to drive anytime.

Excellent pics! This really helps me visually. So if there was something blocking that drain in the main, then it could possibly raise pressure and cause the leak at the same time.(just brainstorming here). I will keep you updated.

Beermate, Thanks for the info on the rear main return. I finally got the fittings to run a mechanical gauge in parallel with my sending unit. The seal is still there, just not holding the oil back.. It leaves a puddle in the garage floor and it comes out the bottom of the bell housing. When I replaced the previous seal it looked as if the oil was coming from the seal area. Everything else was changed too! Haven't run the car yet with the mechanical guage I am going to have a Speedi Sleeve ready to put on if and when I change out the seal So if the rear main cap was removed I would see this slot for the oil return in the cap itself? The filter bypass wouldn't cause high pressure, but what about the pump relief valve.

Well my memory fails me on how, but I took my T-5 to a driveshaft shop and had it shortened. I'm running the T-5 in my early Z. It cost me 120$-I do remember that. another thing to consider, if not already mentioned, that the U-joints are not replacable.