madkaw

My daughter is stoked to get offered such a great position. She is actually interested in being the "bus driver", since she can have a more usable license if she takes this ride back to civilian life. But I see this in my occupation also---especially in management. I see new managers all the time that come in fresh of their degree, because that is what the company wants. They might not know a thing about railroading, but they might have a degree in logistics.

I do study and learn, but I haven't heard of a degree in "Z"ology yet, so... and I guess that was the whole idea of my post, especially concerning my daughter. It's obvious that corporations(yes the USAF) have their own ideas of what best qualifies someone to do a job. Maybe they don't want someone with any pre-existing knowledge, just someone that has an excellent aptitude and attitude. But, you have to have that degree to prove your learning aptitude. Then you get into the leadership stuff...

It's funny in my household how a college education affects all of us differently. I don't have a college degree, some courses, but not close to any degree. I made 100K last year working in a union job. I not sure I could have made that much money with a degree--and I'm still not sure to this day what career I would have educated myself for. So in the end I think college would have been a waste for me.The ironic part of this is that my job allows me time to study sitting in motels, but I have no interest in doing that... which drives my wife nuts, because she needs a degree and doesn't have the time to take courses-though she still does take a class every semester. Now what's funny about this scenerio is that she is next in line to be the Bursur at Indiana University. My wife is incredibly intelligent and runs circles around her fellow workers at the university, but has no degree. It is almost unheard of for a high level employee of a higher education establishment to not have a degree, but my wife does it. Her boss(the Bursur) hired her because of her ability-not her degree-but told her she needs to at least get her associates to make it look good. Now this coming from the Bursur at IU, who has been there 35 years... then you have my daughter that is getting ready to graduate IU with a history major. What good does that college education do----well if you are in ROTC it gets you an officers job in the USAF. Better yet-your going to like this guys---a PILOTS slot in the USAF. My daughter wouldn't know an airfoil if it hit her in the head, but her college education got her a chance at this position--AND---ROTC paid for her education. Don't get me wrong, my daughter is very bright and worked hard to get elected for such a prestigious position in the USAF, but did her degree isn't helping other than getting her in the door. And then you take my son--well he's just 15, but I think his college will be paid for too since he swims like Mikle Phelps!!!!!!! No moral to this story, it's just funny how life is in this regards.

I run that cam with my p30-e88 combo running 9.55 compression. I run 38 degrees advance. Not sure if that helps answer your question. I would do the math to have a combo that gets atleast 9+ CR. Not sure of your concern of using the 42 head That cam is a bit wimpy, you might consider bigger

Yep, get it together the easiest and fastest way and drive it- then you can draw out the big pic. An early e-88 head will be a great combo with flat tops. Freshen up the head and enjoy driving.

Haven't really followed this thread until now, but I will throw in my 2 cents as far as the Subbies. I bought my daughter a 2007 WRX wagon and WOW it's quick and I like the suspension too(Tokico D Specs). It rides like my Z with my KY's and Suspension Techs springs. Utility with the hatchback and speed from the turbo and great handling. I wish I could compare it to other cars, but don't get to drive too many fun cars like you other guys.

I'm also using SS band clamps and I need to use the antsieze stuff myself-it would make life easier when taking my exhaust off. My whole exhaust comes apart in 3 pieces, but getting the down pipes off of the header with slip fit is a PITA

I think it's hard to compare what works for a turbo and non-turbo engine. I have fabbed both and using a "turbo type" muffler on both set-ups,I will say the N/A engine is much louder. The turbo really helps quite the exhaust down at cruise. I am running twice pipes 2" each with resonators AND turbo mufflers and it is border lne too loud. I think if you are at all concerned about noise, a chambered muffler might be best. I think with a header and mandrel bends and larger piping you are not going to hurt flow with a quality chamber muffler. You still will probably have to run a resonator. And I can attest that things get tight under there in a hurry.

I think it's hard to compare what works for a turbo and non-turbo engine. I have fabbed both and using a "turbo type" muffler on both set-ups,I will say the N/A engine is much louder. The turbo really helps quite the exhaust down at cruise. I am running twice pipes 2" each with resonators AND turbo mufflers and it is border lne too loud. I think if you are at all concerned about noise, a chambered muffler might be best. I think with a header and mandrel bends and larger piping you are not going to hurt flow with a quality chamber muffler. You still will probably have to run a resonator. And I can attest that things get tight under there in a hurry.

I just mow noticed where you are from - so I understand the shipping issue. Both MSA and Courtesy Nissan advertise the Nismo gasket. Maybe one of them would ship to you.

I would think that a Nismo high performance head gasket that is advertised as 1.25mm would indeed be 1.25mm. At 150$ it would be much cheaper than machining pistons. I also think a MLS type gasket would be very consistent

So are we saying there is no 1.25mm compressed gaskets avaialble? I have just finished replacing head gasket on my L24 and the one I removed was right at .047-pretty close to 1.25mm. I believe this was a stock Nissan gasket. The one I ordered from Nissan is a Nismo gasket that also is supposed to be 1.25mm compressed. Wouldn't these make your numbers work?

Part of it sold Thanks for fixing me up

Those seals actually will stick out a bit and don't need to be trimmed. Probably why Nissan recommends sealant in that area. I will be better off commenting more once I'm up and running again

Josh, thanks for the insight. I have checked my pcv system and replaced my valve for good measure. I also have had a headgasket going out-maybe slowly, and wondered if this was all tied into my leak. Also complicating the diagnosis is the fact that the first seal looked like the rubber was dry rotted(fresh rebuilt motor). Then I nicked up the flange on the crank trying to get the first one out. Don't believe any of the nicks are on the sealing surface-but I will always wonder. I have not ran the engine since head gasket replacement, so I haven't verified oil pressure either. One other thing is that I over filled the oil on the last oil change. Didn't have a chance to run the engine much after removing excess oil before I tore it apart to do head gasket.

Glad this thread came about. I have been fighting a leaking rear main seal on my car and i am on my second rear seal. I am thinking excessive pressure now and with this thread I will be better informed. The best thing to do is to put a mechanical guage in parallel with my stock guage. I also need to check my oil pump pressure spring set-up, since at one time I was messing with the springs, but don't remember what i left in there. Plus I was watching my video I made of my in car driving and the oil pressure was mysteriously stable around 60psi---even at idle.

My ad in the parts for sale forum is locked and I can't figure out why???? It is the r200 ad and I wanted to do a weekly update and bump. thanks

Goal is a scrappy sounding old-school Ratty Z. Drivin about 3 times a month. So did you make your original goal or are you getting caught up in the HP wars? I'm trying not to get caught up in that chase because it never ends. I do want to learn and improve, but it's no use trying to keep up with modern technology-just out gunned. Do you think you got everything out of that motor? You talked about your cam being lame-did you go bigger? Not sure your exhaust change will make that big of difference. I'm planning on spending money at the dyno to try different things-timing, jetting, whatever. Were you able to get you cam on specs?? Just curious and following your build.

Didn't mean to sound critical there Tim. The angle on the picture made it look like it is laying against the valve cover. Your idea still might work for me now that I have taken a closer look. I either need to set it right on top of the manifold to clear my linkage on the triples or further up and away like yours. Anyone want to enlighten me on the size and thread of the bungs on this Mikuni manifold??? I assumed they were 1/8 npt, but they seem smaller then that. I measured the thread pitch and it comes close to .80mm thread. I want to get some barbed fittings on order.

You should nhave just bought my set-up out of the classifieds-moustache bar and diff(shameless plug ) They pop up here and other sites all the time. Shipping -if the seller is will to do so-sometimes is worth paying instead of spending a day messing around in junk yards and getting cold and dirty. Ill admit that the hunt is part of the fun too!!!!

Tony, not quite visualizing your idea, but I don't have much experience with injectors either. Josh, thanks for the idea with quick- push connectors.'I see a problem when trying to remove the log and six fittings at the same time, don't have enough fingers for that. I want six lines to increase vacuum signal for the brake booster and to act as a balance tune for the triples.

No problem on the 'tangent'; trying to find any info on this issue is a challenge. The biggest issue for right now is placement of the log. Not a lot of room when your using the shorty Mikuni manifold. I would love to set it right on top of the manifold, but it would be a bit of a challenge for the fact that the hose lenghts would have to be micro short to keep the log away fron the throttle linkages. Not sure if i like TimZ 's idea of strapping to the side of the valve cover. I am thinking of securing the log to the CAI backing plate, but that would require longer vacuum lines(maybe too long), don't know if that would be a problem.

So are we saying here that the bigger the better-within reason. Looks like the mikuni manifold is as you say tapped for 1/8 pipe all the way across and one 1/4 pipe. I looked at pipe sizes and there isn't much difference as far as ID with these two sizes. The LOG I am using(basically a fuel rail) is set up for 1/4 pipe on the ends-or basically 1/2" ID. Also-any general rules as far as keeping the vacuum log as short or as long as possible???. Looks like about 20" log would work for me , but someone had commented to keep the vacuum ports on the log close together. One last thing-to make things easier to mount the log, I would be mounting the log a good 6 to 8 inches from the manifold, so the individual hoses will be longer then most set-ups I've seen---any problems with this???

Well i posted this on another thread and realized I had started my own---anyway Any opinions on vacuum line size-can it be too big or too small, I have no idea and I am ready to order fittings.

I am reviving this thread looking for opinions on vacuum line size on the log . With my set up I could go from 1/8 all the way to 3/8 or better, but not sure if bigger is better or visa-versa?