madkaw

Try Wolf Creek racing-google it!

You could try tweaking the floats up richer, you maybe running lean in WOT.

When I read Corky Bells turbo charging book he pretty much condemned the idea of thicker gaskets to alter compression. Basically don't mess with the squish if you don't know what your doing. You might make things worse with a thicker gasket and have worse detonation - If you have any now.

Sleeve ordered from Rock auto!! Now off to the dyno before tearing it down to do this job .

Sam, thanks, didn't know there was that option available. I thought Speedi sleeve was my only option. I will check out rock-auto's page.

Pete, thanks so much for the measurements. I went to the Speedi Sleeve site and this is what I came up with according to your info According to this page http://www.skf.com/files/344136.pdf item 99315 seems to be the correct choice for our shaft-does anyone agree or disagree?

I have no idea what your saying

I might ask while you have your trophy out , to measure for the depth of the flange , also, if you can determine how deep the flywheel sits on the flange. I want to make sure the Speedi sleeve is the proper depth and does not interfere with the flywheel mounting. Thanks

Thanks so much for posting that. I bet those mice are close enough. Maybe someone else will chime in and verify your measurement

Ummm, I know what a Speedi sleeve is and how it works and yes I have seen that video. What I need is a measurement !!!!!!

I know it would be nice to have a 6" dial calipers. but I don't. I need to buy a cheapo set at harbor frieght as stated. I have gotten by without forever and my small collection of smaller OD mics have gotten me by. Harbor frieght is an hour away, so if someone could help me out it would be appreciated. I am trying to get this taken care while I am home for spring break with my son. Someone is loaning me their engine hoist and I don't want to have it for longer than need be.

Thanks for the reply, but I should have stated that this was for the rear main seal. I will look thru the thread but appears this is relevant to the front snout area. I need the OD of the crank where the flywheel mounts.

Hey guys, I need a little help here. I want to order a Speedi sleeve for my engine and I don't have mics big enough to measure the end of my crank. I checked the FSM, but no luck there either. If someone can measure for me I would appreciate it!!

Certain years actaully had two different float level settings, the front being different from the year. Might have better luck searching SU carb float settings on Google.

I have decided on the Sonic turbo. It's the only compact under 20k with a turbo option that gets 40mpg highway. I'm impressed with the rear leg room and the cargo is ample with the rear seats down. It runs on 87 octane - a few pennies saved there. Engine has more potential - the euro versions of the L 4 turbo are 195hp. I have read very few negatives on the car, though it is a fairly new model. Looks------ I own a 240z , so nothing in this price range looks comparable . The Fords look good but are more expensive and less powerful. I don't have time for a Datsun wagon project, but sounds fun!

I know Subaru will be the safest bet, but they aren't cheap. I know you get what you pay for, but looking for a cheap commuter under 20k leaves the Subaru out. I own subarus now and they are great cars, but no 40mpg cars and I don't really need AWD. - my wife has that. (Forester) I'm putting a deposit down on the Sonic after reading tons of reviews on the car. Wish me luck on buying a GM product!

Local dealership just received a LTZ Sonic L 4 turbo and I drove it the other day . For what it is, cheap compact , I was impressed. Good power and a good power band made it very peppy indeed. Lots of room and decent ride. The six speed was a bit overkill since there was no difference hardly between 5th and 6 th, but I guess 40mpg calls for it. I'd buy one and just might

I just received my ZG flares today and have a question about fit also. The fit was pretty good on all but one flare, the driver's side front. I know the molds are old and the fit has to be worked, but the front driver's wasn't looking right. After closer inspection I noticed that the flare was "trimmed up" a little too much I believe. It seems that the flares have a small "flange" area around the upper edge that lays against the body. The problem with my driver's front is that this flange is gone? Check out the pics and someone confirm for me that this flare is NOT right. I have contacted the vendor, but I want the opinion of someone that has done this.

Anyone used a Speedi sleeve on their crank? I plan on having a Speedi sleeve on hand when I pull my motor to find my oil leak(which is more likely the rear main). I guess I was hoping someone had made this repair and would let me know what size sleeve you used and how it worked out for you. I would think the size would be the same for all L6 motors. As I type this I just remembered I have my original p-30 sitting in my barn which still has the crank sitting in there-soooo I guess I could measure myself, if I trust my mics -I still will put this thread out there for others and possible feedback.

I meant using the lips for some isolated rust repair that always happens in that area-since my fenders are rust free. If you have ever seen aftermarket repair lips you would want some leftovers from this job!

I'm guessing Indiana University and a lot of studying!

Good advice and i will keep that in mind. Took the car into the DS shop and they put it on the lift and checked the 'angle of the dangle'. With the RT mount in the originally configured position the shop said it was good to go-very good they said! Sooooo, my adjustment was obviously fu@ked up and I don't know how to measure that angle properly. My adjustment involved lowering the nose of the diff a good 1/2" or better-which on a 30" DS was too much. Now wouldn't you know the vibration is much better now. I took the car up to 115mph and it was fairly smooth. I believe I still have work to do in other areas, but I feel much better KNOWING that the angle is right and the DS is balanced. Elimanating that stuff makes troubleshooting better and easier. It's nice to know that since I made my own RT mount that I did that right. A comment was made by the tech about NVH. He implied that I will always here more noises and feel more vibrations because the way my car is set up. He was probably refering to my semi solid trans tailshaft mount and my semi rigidly mounted exhaust.

Your pics are too big! I wanted to do the same thing-but for the opposite camber. My s-30 coupe has 245/45/17 with suspension techniques 1" lowering springs. If I could get another 1/4" of inboard movement the top of my tires would probably not rub, but the spring hats are hard up against the inboard wall now by slotting the holes. My camber is only -3/4 degree now, so I could afford the extra negative and than I wouldn't need flares!!

Took the DS back to the shop and had it rechecked and wouldn't you know it ran perfectly balanced on their machine. So I'm taking the car in and have the shop check the driveline angle. I had made a change to the RT mount angle based on my measurements and it vibrates there, so I'm changing it back to the RT angle and taking to the shop.

No longer needed-thanks guys