madkaw

I think it's hard to compare what works for a turbo and non-turbo engine. I have fabbed both and using a "turbo type" muffler on both set-ups,I will say the N/A engine is much louder. The turbo really helps quite the exhaust down at cruise. I am running twice pipes 2" each with resonators AND turbo mufflers and it is border lne too loud. I think if you are at all concerned about noise, a chambered muffler might be best. I think with a header and mandrel bends and larger piping you are not going to hurt flow with a quality chamber muffler. You still will probably have to run a resonator. And I can attest that things get tight under there in a hurry.

I just mow noticed where you are from - so I understand the shipping issue. Both MSA and Courtesy Nissan advertise the Nismo gasket. Maybe one of them would ship to you.

I would think that a Nismo high performance head gasket that is advertised as 1.25mm would indeed be 1.25mm. At 150$ it would be much cheaper than machining pistons. I also think a MLS type gasket would be very consistent

So are we saying there is no 1.25mm compressed gaskets avaialble? I have just finished replacing head gasket on my L24 and the one I removed was right at .047-pretty close to 1.25mm. I believe this was a stock Nissan gasket. The one I ordered from Nissan is a Nismo gasket that also is supposed to be 1.25mm compressed. Wouldn't these make your numbers work?

Part of it sold Thanks for fixing me up

Those seals actually will stick out a bit and don't need to be trimmed. Probably why Nissan recommends sealant in that area. I will be better off commenting more once I'm up and running again

Josh, thanks for the insight. I have checked my pcv system and replaced my valve for good measure. I also have had a headgasket going out-maybe slowly, and wondered if this was all tied into my leak. Also complicating the diagnosis is the fact that the first seal looked like the rubber was dry rotted(fresh rebuilt motor). Then I nicked up the flange on the crank trying to get the first one out. Don't believe any of the nicks are on the sealing surface-but I will always wonder. I have not ran the engine since head gasket replacement, so I haven't verified oil pressure either. One other thing is that I over filled the oil on the last oil change. Didn't have a chance to run the engine much after removing excess oil before I tore it apart to do head gasket.

Glad this thread came about. I have been fighting a leaking rear main seal on my car and i am on my second rear seal. I am thinking excessive pressure now and with this thread I will be better informed. The best thing to do is to put a mechanical guage in parallel with my stock guage. I also need to check my oil pump pressure spring set-up, since at one time I was messing with the springs, but don't remember what i left in there. Plus I was watching my video I made of my in car driving and the oil pressure was mysteriously stable around 60psi---even at idle.

My ad in the parts for sale forum is locked and I can't figure out why???? It is the r200 ad and I wanted to do a weekly update and bump. thanks

Goal is a scrappy sounding old-school Ratty Z. Drivin about 3 times a month. So did you make your original goal or are you getting caught up in the HP wars? I'm trying not to get caught up in that chase because it never ends. I do want to learn and improve, but it's no use trying to keep up with modern technology-just out gunned. Do you think you got everything out of that motor? You talked about your cam being lame-did you go bigger? Not sure your exhaust change will make that big of difference. I'm planning on spending money at the dyno to try different things-timing, jetting, whatever. Were you able to get you cam on specs?? Just curious and following your build.

Didn't mean to sound critical there Tim. The angle on the picture made it look like it is laying against the valve cover. Your idea still might work for me now that I have taken a closer look. I either need to set it right on top of the manifold to clear my linkage on the triples or further up and away like yours. Anyone want to enlighten me on the size and thread of the bungs on this Mikuni manifold??? I assumed they were 1/8 npt, but they seem smaller then that. I measured the thread pitch and it comes close to .80mm thread. I want to get some barbed fittings on order.

You should nhave just bought my set-up out of the classifieds-moustache bar and diff(shameless plug ) They pop up here and other sites all the time. Shipping -if the seller is will to do so-sometimes is worth paying instead of spending a day messing around in junk yards and getting cold and dirty. Ill admit that the hunt is part of the fun too!!!!

Tony, not quite visualizing your idea, but I don't have much experience with injectors either. Josh, thanks for the idea with quick- push connectors.'I see a problem when trying to remove the log and six fittings at the same time, don't have enough fingers for that. I want six lines to increase vacuum signal for the brake booster and to act as a balance tune for the triples.

No problem on the 'tangent'; trying to find any info on this issue is a challenge. The biggest issue for right now is placement of the log. Not a lot of room when your using the shorty Mikuni manifold. I would love to set it right on top of the manifold, but it would be a bit of a challenge for the fact that the hose lenghts would have to be micro short to keep the log away fron the throttle linkages. Not sure if i like TimZ 's idea of strapping to the side of the valve cover. I am thinking of securing the log to the CAI backing plate, but that would require longer vacuum lines(maybe too long), don't know if that would be a problem.

So are we saying here that the bigger the better-within reason. Looks like the mikuni manifold is as you say tapped for 1/8 pipe all the way across and one 1/4 pipe. I looked at pipe sizes and there isn't much difference as far as ID with these two sizes. The LOG I am using(basically a fuel rail) is set up for 1/4 pipe on the ends-or basically 1/2" ID. Also-any general rules as far as keeping the vacuum log as short or as long as possible???. Looks like about 20" log would work for me , but someone had commented to keep the vacuum ports on the log close together. One last thing-to make things easier to mount the log, I would be mounting the log a good 6 to 8 inches from the manifold, so the individual hoses will be longer then most set-ups I've seen---any problems with this???

Well i posted this on another thread and realized I had started my own---anyway Any opinions on vacuum line size-can it be too big or too small, I have no idea and I am ready to order fittings.

I am reviving this thread looking for opinions on vacuum line size on the log . With my set up I could go from 1/8 all the way to 3/8 or better, but not sure if bigger is better or visa-versa?

As far as headgasket thickness, when i disassembled my engine to change headgaskets, I meaasured the gasket thickness and it was .047. Unfortunetley I can't tell you what gasket this is, except that it came with a MSA gasket kit(i'm betting Felpro, but maybe original nissan). I ordered a Nismo gasket from nissan and it is advertised as 1.25mm compressed. That would be dam close to what you need as far as numbers. Quench would be around .026 -not sure if you can get closer then that- and would you be absolutely sure of all your measurements? If the gasket compressed anymore then 1.25mm then you have a safety margin.

I thought I was the only one that used chewing gum LOL. Actually I was trying to check for minimum piston/valve clearance and I used a stick of UNCHEWED Wrigleys(which measured about .095) and laid it in the piston. I was using a used/compressed head gasket and messing with cam timing and had to take the head off afterwards anyway, so I just laid a piece on the piston and lined it up with the valves. It actually worked because when I got the cam way out of time( wwaaayyyy retarded) the valve left marks on the gum. If someone was slick enough they could probably stick a piece(trimmed down) thru the sparkplug hole on an assembled engine.

I have been reading this thread and not sure if you realize the error in your numbers Now I need to think about what to do, I think it will be quickly a matter of cost between new gasket (stock one at 1.25mm (0.060") would be good with quench around 0.7mm - 0.027") or machining cost for pistons isn't 1.25mm actually .049"

Running 245/45/17's all the way around and the tires do rub on the rear. The tires catch the inner fender just above the fender opening. The fender rubs the tire sidewalls over bigger bumps or hard turns. 235 might clear with no problem.

I found it very difficult to get my heat shield to go all the way to the head under the intakes. I'm considering some heat wrap material around the individual runners. Any negative results from wrapping the intake runners completely or should I just wrap them half way around the bottom.

Ray, in the process of making my CAI and heat sheild. I have been looking at yours and wonder if your accelerator pump linkages hit the pan? My set-up is similiar but I had to punch some holes so the pump linkages would clear for WOT. Nice job getting the pan all the way under the intake. I didn't take mine that far, but will add some double side insulation on top of the pan and run it all the way to the head.

Nice flat torque curve. The AFR's really get rich at 3500-do you feel that while driving?

Don't know if your e-88 is ready to bolt on or not, but you could lay your head gasket on that head and unshroud those valves which would let it breathe and gain some chamber size to a safer CR.