madkaw

Hopefully as stated above it is an exhaust leak. When I took off my MSA header this last time I think I finally found my ticking noise. There was a divit on the flange and you could see where the exhaust was escaping. I couldn't see it on the car because it was pissing out the bottom right in the middle. The more I read about oil pressures I think I might have too much and that is why it's squezzing by my rear main. The 10psi per 1000 doesn't always hold true for my engine. it seems a lot of these L6's have some kind of 'noise personality', maybe yours a tick-but I know it would drive me nuts too!

Pete, for some reason my sprocket didn't come with that chart. Thanks for posting yours as it will add more valuable info to this great thread.

I have a really cool Nurburgring shirt that someone gave me and that's as close as I will get to that track-I am also very jealous-congrats!

Okay guys-need some more help. My Nismo cam sprocket arrived and I threw it on there since it was easy at this time. I set it up on #2 since that was what the stock was set-up on. The timing came in slightly retarded from where I was. Dialing in #3 puts me too far advance. Not sure where to go from here. I see the letters on there A-D. If I want to advance beyond #2 do I use the letter that falls between the numbers?

If it were me, I would do one step at a time. I would bolt on the head with your carbs now-assuming that they are SU's and in good working order. You start changing things around too much at one time and if you have problems it is harder to diagnose.The n42 is a good head, but do you really know if it's ready to go and in running condition. I would just get rid of that lousy e31 head and give it to me-its no good for anything As far as weber stuff, posting the jet sizes would help the members see where you are at with the sizing.

Stroke-stroke and 2.6 are a few hints. Lots of info by means of the search button!!

I started a thread on this about a manual type sensor based on the human ear used with one of the cheap hearing appliances. Everywhere I read that most detectors are junk and give false indications. Scientific testing is what we need! My l24 sounds like it is detonating but it is really the exhaust. No way to be sure until I had to remove the head as saw no evidence. I am running 38 total with pretty high compression- which if you listen around here- that can't be done( could be cam timing allows this advance). Each engine is different So true evidence and scientific testing is the only way to know

There will probably be other folks dealing with what I am now, so I thought I would post up my findings. In the true spirit of Hybrid I have a mixed combo of parts. L24 hooked to a 82/bwt-5 trans running with the dedicated t-5 driveshaft to a r200. If you are running the bwt-5 driveshaft your aware that it had it's own particular driveshaft. So swapping to the STI/r180 from a r200/bwt-5 presents a few issues. No longer can I just swap out the pinion flange on the diffs, because of the difference in pinion diameter. Since I am running the t-5 driveshaft, it's body diameter is larger than a stock driveshaft which makes welding a different end on the driveshaft diificult, at best. So I layed my driveshaft yoke up to the subby pinion flange and realize that there is plenty of meat to redrill this flange. The other very nice thing I notices was that the driveshaft yoke cenetering ring fits perfect into the subby flange. That raised ring on the end of your driveshaft yoke that helps center and keep the shaft centered so the bolts will line up is the same!! In other words, it will be much easier to drill since the parts are concentric to each others pinions. I took the two pinion flanges from the two different diffs to my machinist and he agreed with me that a simple bushing could be made to center the two flanges to each other, than it will just be a matter of tranfering bolt patterns. I like this idea since I am keeping the subby flange with the subby diff. Hope this helps someone.

L6

My car being a 9/71 couldn't use the original console. I had to use a later year console where the hole was further foward. If I remember correctly, I had to cut the hole in the tunnel further foward and it didn't line up with the original console. Even with all that the shifter is still located NOT centered in the console. I went with a offset style shifter to keep it away from the heater panel.

It was in the last few months. I went on the NASIO site and it was sitting there in the classifieds.I couldn't believe how clean it was-inside and out!~ It was a 3.90 ratio. I didn't care about ratio that much because later on I can just swap out, trade, buy another Subby LSD with a different ration. This is a much better deal than being stuck with 3.7 in the r200. I don't know how to change gearing or install a LSD unit---but I can swap out a diff!!!!

I found one on the Subby forums for 350$ with 60K miles(so he said), but it looked new. Maybe I just got lucky.

Pete, your exactly right on both posts! Just got off the phone with Jerry at Schneider and yes valve lash needs to be set since I am taking measurements off of the retainer. Some new numbers with the sprocket in #2 hole; Intake closes 33.5 ABDC Intake opens 3 BTDC Exhaust opens 37 BBDC Exhaust closes 6 BTDC Jerry worked some numbers and felt the intake opening needed to fall inbetween 2-4 degrees opening. I acheived this with the sprocket in # 2 hole. With this setting I am no more than 2 degrees off on any specs. My arm and back are wore out!

Okay, looking for some guidance here. I am awaiting and hoping Schneider will return my call-but meanwhile here is a pic of my cam card. I have made some assumptions since I haven't confirmed with Schneider yet, but I assume the degreeing numbers on the right are made with zero vlave-lash and at .050. Haven't recieved my Nismo adjustable sprocket yet, so this is using stock sprocket. This is what I cane up with using #1 hole: Intake opens @ 1 degree BTDC Intake closes @ 43 degrees ABDC Exhaust opens @36 BBDC Exhaust closes @4 ATDC Using # 2 hole on sprocket: Intake opens @5 degrees BTDC Intake closes @ 40 degrees ABDC Exhaust opens @40 BBDC Exhaust closes @1 BTDC My concern is that trying to get close to the card for Intake closing is just going to take me further away from the other closing and opening points.

Okay, looking for some guidance here. I am awaiting and hoping Schneider will return my call-but meanwhile here is a pic of my cam card. I have made some assumptions since I haven't confirmed with Schneider yet, but I assume the degreeing numbers on the right are made with zero vlave-lash and at .050. Haven't recieved my Nismo adjustable sprocket yet, so this is using stock sprocket. This is what I cane up with using #1 hole: Intake opens @ 1 degree BTDC Intake closes @ 43 degrees ABDC Exhaust opens @36 BBDC Exhaust closes @4 ATDC Using # 2 hole on sprocket: Intake opens @5 degrees BTDC Intake closes @ 40 degrees ABDC Exhaust opens @40 BBDC Exhaust closes @1 BTDC My concern is that trying to get close to the card for Intake closing is just going to take me further away from the other closing and opening points.See next post for attachment

Pete, I understand what your saying. This is the whole reason I didn't just throw the cam in and say-well the power is okay, but I better get a bigger one. This is the whole reason I didn't just throw the nearly new Mikunis 40's on my car yet-even though I'v owned them for years,why-because I haven't finished doing the tune on there with my SU's. I am trying to do this the right way and LEARN more than anything. There will be dyno trips involved to. I did my first on the way to ZCON 2010 and found the engine made good power, but was out of tune-and the cam was just thrown in, but now i want to properly dial it in as well as other things and DYNO once again with the SU's----THEN and only THEN the Mikunis go on and then DYNO time. I want to know for sure if I am making progress and learning too, so there will be many trips to the dyno. I appreciate the shared knowledge of all you guys.

Just so I'm not misunderstood, I am not looking to advance the cam BEYOND specs. The numbers are coming up retarded, so I want to advance the cam to get to spec. If I could have a choice betwwen the cam slightly retarded or slightly advanced- (because i couldn't get the specs EXACT)- I would rather be slightly advanced. Head is early e-88 with .010 shaved with bigger valves. Flat-tops with no reliefs. I will probably measure piston/valve clearance at some point in all this for future reference to go with a bigger cam. Pete, I will try your method later since this is a symetrical cam profile

Thanks Leon.I am confident that I am dead on as far as TDC. I set that up before installing the head. I doubt I am off a tooth, but I will check that out. Bottom end seems really good on little L24, but if she'll give more-I'll take it! The cam is just a 274f grind, so I believe the grind is goaled more for torque then higher rpm power. At this point, I want to get the intake valve closing point on the mark, since this is the most important.

Pete, I am attempting to meet the cam card specs, but as I stated earlier, I am not reaching that goal with the stock sprocket setting-at least not #1 position. The readings are coming up retarded, which is the way I ran the engine the last 5k miles.Not looking for any magic, just to see if i notice a power change getting closer to stated specs on card. Schneider tech guy told me at the initial installation that my numbers were coming in slightly retarded, but running a manual gear box would help offset that and i would be losing some bottom end. So that's the way I ran the engine till this point. Now I want to dial it in closer to specs.Also, as I stated in reading Racer Browns article, it seems that you already get a retarding penalty from running a chain driven cam, so I don't want to leave the valve timing retarded. Though I must say the engine ran very good at lower rpms-lots of torque, so it will be interesting to see if feel any difference. As far as valve clearance, I am ASSuming that my meager 480 lift cam should have ample clearance if I am close to specs on the valve timing. As far as head gasket goes, the one I took off measures around 1.2mm and that is what the Nismo measures at once compressed(if I ever get it). since writing the last post I have searched and found how to change the sprocket setting-thanks Leon. When you stated off by a tooth-do you mean too many links between the cam and crank?

In the last few days I had my head checked and it's flat, so time to do some degreeing. I set everything up verifying TDC before putting the head on(dial indicator directly on block measuring #1). As before the numbers on my Cam card are not coming up on the degree wheel. I set things at zero lash and measured the intake side and the timing is coming up retarded(atleast 4 degrees). The biggest concern is that the closing point is late-which I would like to rememdy and if anything be earlier then the card states. I found a Nismo adjustable sprocket on line for less than 100$-so I jumped on it. Meanwhile, I thought I would adjust the timing with the stock sprocket since it does allow for advancement-or does it? I realized at this point in time that I was stumped on how to relocate the position of the sprocket to the #2 hole. I did this about 4 years ago when i first put the motor together, but I'm not sure now. So at TDC do I remove the sprocket with chain intact to maintain my 41 link separation from the crank sprocket-then rotate the cam advanced to line up the dowel pin to #2??? Since the factory sprocket has this adjustment to allow for chain stretch-what if the chain has no stretch since it is new-can you still make the adjustment? I reread this thread a couple of times and didn't read where it was spelled out on how this change was done. It might be beneficial to all that reference this thread to know the mechanics of actually changing the timing at the sprocket.

Advanced timing is a great if your motor can take it . If it runs better and doesn't detonate- go for it. You should listen for detonation during times that your vacuum advance is involved in your overall timing. I run 20 initial. How much mechanical advance are you running? What's your total timing? If you can't answer these questions then it's time to search!

I have been contemplating a high compression turbo build myself with my p-30, but I would seriously consider switching to e-85 if I did this. It's plentiful here in Indiana and less chance of tearing up the motor

Found this surfing the net and thought I'd pass it along-I ordered one myself. The best price I've seen for this item. http://www.nissanraceshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=332630

I wish they let me keep the damaged one, but no dice. It was curled up on the end-maybe salvagable, but I wasn't taking the risk. Funny thing is(not really funny) I ordered a exhaust gasket from autozone and the same thing happened, looks like they dropped before they put it in the box. Luckily I opened the box right in front of them-no questions asked!

Waited 4 weeks for my Nismo gasket and it comes DAMAGED ;( Some idiot at Courtesy Nissan puts a 2 ft long flat gasket in a 3 ft long triangle box with ONE piece of paper for packing. Now I guess I will wait another 4 weeks . Good news is that my machinist said the head is flat, I guess the gasket just have out