madkaw

Maybe Childs play for Tony D, but for an average mechanic - very average like me, basic valve geometry is beyond my ability. Not that I don't understand that timing of the events is crucial, but to dial in a cam without specific details to go by- no way. Maybe Ray can do that and I am under estimating his ability, just thought I would throw it out there.

I guess I am still confused on how you set up or dial in a cam without a card? What numbers are you referencing? I wouldn't even know where to begin without the card in my hand. Any numbers in a FSM for a stock cam wouldn't work for an after market cam. Most cams, if not all that are sold are usually dialed in using measuremnts based on .050 lift on the valve. Nissan used an arbitrary number like .020 or .025 lift to dial in there cams in any published numbers. I remember reading this from a Racer Brown article. As far as the statement about the L24 not coming on until 4k rpm, My engine feels very strong(torquey) starting at 2k. In fact I am always impressed at the amount of low end grunt the little booger has. Maybe I haven't driven enough Z's to make that statement, but I feel power is very even across the rpm band-and the dyno showed that. Anyway, I realize it's frustating, hope you find something.

I have reread the instructions for the speedi sleeve and they recommend using Loctite 209? I think they meant Loctite 290, which is the green loctite. I think a liquid type sealer would be best in this close tolerance situation, even though I'm not sure if I classify the green loctite as a sealer. The description by Loctite does say sealer/thread locker, so I imagine it would do the job. I guess you would pay hell getting it off if you ever had to!!

Well my first attempt at the speedi sleeve was a failure. I did get a set of mics and checked the size and it was in the limits of the sleeve. The instructions stated to use a non-hardening sealant on the ID of the sleeve before installing-and I think that's what did me in. It took too much force to install the sleeve and I bent the flange on the sleeve trying to get it on. I used permatex #2 non-hardening, but I think it was too thick even though I thought I put it on thin. This caused too much interference and too tight a tolerance for the thin flange. So I guess I will order another one-maybe two just in case. I am having the worse time with something so simple as the rear main. Any suggestions? I thought about preheating the sleeve with a heat gun to give me wiggle room, but not sure if the sealant would like that. Maybe a thinner type sealant?

You need to check all aspects of your ignition. Heaving loading at low rpm will put a large load on your ignition and will show a weak coil or bad wires. Have you checked your charging voltage? Weak spark will exhibit your symptoms.

I have a 280zxt flywheel and PP set-up on my L24. All was good until the last time I did a rear main seal change. At that time I had the flywheel modded for a hall effect sensor and had the flywheel rebalanced. After putting the car back together, it seemed that I had more vibration than usual. I blamed this on a possible bad balance job on the flywheel. Well since I had to pull the motor again because I didn't fix the rear main seal(this time it's getting speedi sleeve), I looked over things carefully. I noticed that of the 9 bolts holding the PP, 3 of them were shorter, by maybe 1/8" or so. So I guess I mixed up some hardware when reinstalling? I am pretty sure these should all be the same just for the reason of balance. What do you guys think;would 3 odd bolts actually be felt as an imbalance? I've scrounged around my hundreds of bolts and can't seem to come up with the other 3. Anyone run into having to replace these bolts and can tell me where they might have gotten them locally?

Neither-you want 3.5psi. Maybe 4psi at th most, so you will need a regulator

You mean the pilot jets? The first post I said 57.5. It might be the case that they are the wrong size, but I need to get other things squared up first. I am going to replace the intake gasket to assure no vacuum leaks. I did take the carbs off today and watched the accelerator pumps in action- and there wasn't any on one port. Another nozzle was spraying weak, so this was obviously effecting transition. My floats were also rich, but not sure if that was hurting me at this point.

Ray What part did you think you might have overlooked. Not trying to be a jerk, but your response was a bit convoluted:) Even though my cam set up retarded- straight up- it was still plenty strong. Not sure how you did a degree wheel on the rocker?? By the way, I run dual 2" and dynoed 150/150 running too rich

Yes, they are to ADVANCE the timing and I think you are right on the amount of degrees. I'd go to #2 and redial it and see how it comes out.

Is that a Nismo Gasket?

I talked to Todd at Wolfcreek. Todd was emphatic about getting the accelerator pumps working properly. He says that due to the age of these carbs and if they have been sitting, it may take some time to get the pumps fully primed. He said to make sure I get a visual confirmation on this. Tony, I had a hard time buying the acclerator pump because I was increasing the throttle so slowly that I thought they wouldn't be a factor-but I guesws I might be wrong. Maybe that's old Holley carb mentality!! Secondly, I might have skimped where I shouldn't and installed the carbs on a used intake gasket. The gasket wasn't very old, but it did have SU's mounted to it earlier. So I could have a vacuum leak that is only showing up slightly above idle, which in turn is leaning my primary too much. I shot propane around the gasket at idle-no changes. The car once warmed up idles great. Thirdly, he didn't approve of my float adjustment method. He told me to hang the float on the seat and measure. The manual also shows measuring the fuel level in the bowl, but Todd said forget that. Todd said once I check all these items, then and only then do I increase jet sizes. From all my searching, the jets in the carbs now should be good enough for my set up. I will also give a SHOUT OUT to Todd for his patience. He comes off gruff-especially if you call him unprepared to answer specific questions, but in the end he was a good guy and realy wanted to help out. I have also ordered from him before and he was fast and accurate with his stuff.

Do your plugs look normal-do they have any color? Does the engine sound flat like it's running out of gas? Adjusted nozzles to hit lean and rich walls???? This sounds beyond a nozzle adjustment. I've got an adjustable sprocket on my L24 and minor degree changes didn't exibit the symptoms you see. I've played with as much as 6-9 degrees and the changes were noticable, but they were small. It almost sounds like your floats are lean. That would make it flat, but it would still rev out-just no power. You could try tweeking them to high side and see what that does. If you were off a tooth on the cam, that would be a different story. Sure you counted the links exact from sprocket to sprocket? You said the cam was installed straight up-did you degree the cam in or just set it on the first hole. My schnedier installed on the first hole showed up retarted on the degree wheel. Variances in the rocker arms will show up on the wheel. And of course-valve adjustment is crucial. Igniton timing looks good for power. Running proper impedence coil for the pertronix? Alternator putting out a strong 14 volts for your ignition?

Leon, I don't think the numbers correspond . Those jets are exactly what Mikuni installed as a bolt on upgrade. Todd at wolfcreek said the numbers are close. The AFRs were 14+ at idle, not sure before it stalls.

L24 -stage 2 cam, headers, electronic ignition. Car ran great before installing Mikuni's Mikuni's look new inside and out-40phh 180 main air 140 main jet 57.5 pilot Not sure on the pump nozzle Float levels checked-seemed low, but after talking to Todd at Wolfcreek I might need to back in and check them Dialed in for best idle is about 2.5 turns out on the pilots Electric pump running 3.5 to 4psi Car idles smoothly and engine will rev up pretty freely. But, when I very slowly increase the throttle off idle, it will increase rpm until about 2000 rpm then die, and I mean die. It seems revving up the engine the accelerator pump will bypass this dead spot, but I would need to rev up the motor constantly. As it is, it is undrivable. Wideband showed around 14afr at idle, but plugs were pretty sooty after an attempted drive-probably because i had to constantly rev it up. Todd asked me to make sure the accelerator pumps were actually working-visually, and as best as I can see and hear, the pumps are working. He felt it could be a transition issue. I thought maybe the primary jets might be small, but honestly I am guessing a bit with these carbs.

Innovate

My AFR guage has been a little erratic lately. It seems to do okay at cruise, but during WOT and other times the guage drops full lean occasionally. I did some searching and it seems that coolant can contaminate the sensor and I did recently have a head gasket go which in turn put coolant in the exhaust. Anyone confirm this before I lay out the money for another sensor? I will add the the guage worked great before this and I have checked all wires and pulled the O2 sensor out and recalibrated it according to the manual. I have also checked for loose grounds or wires.

Nice numbers for a basically stock 280ET with good engine management-excellent!

I'd love to do an Ikea kitchen based on looking at their showroom. I can't testify to their quality , but you got to love those drawers on the cabinets.

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A quick question reagarding the vacuum log. Anyone see any issues with hooking up a PCV on one end of the vacuum log while hooking up my MC booster on the other end?

Well I'm not the best at the computer stuff and I can't open my dyno files sent to me from the Dyno operator. The files are DRF files which windows does not recognize. I've tried going to the Dyno jet web sites but it seems that most of the programs or software is for the dyno operators. Does anyone have a direct link for the computer impaired person like me. I would really like to put up my sheets(though nothing to impressive) to share, but I can't and don't know what to do here.

Try Wolf Creek racing-google it!

You could try tweaking the floats up richer, you maybe running lean in WOT.

When I read Corky Bells turbo charging book he pretty much condemned the idea of thicker gaskets to alter compression. Basically don't mess with the squish if you don't know what your doing. You might make things worse with a thicker gasket and have worse detonation - If you have any now.