madkaw

Well an update on this thread. I finally got around to replacing my diff with another r200-non LSD type and the noise is gone. The catch with this is that when i went to remove the halfshafts from from the car I noticed that I didn't get the nuts tight on the stubs. Maybe in haste to get the car together to get to ZCON I didn't tighten the nuts all the way? The halfshafts seemed to have beeen sitting flush against the stubs and I could't feel any play, but now I will always wonder if that played into the noise.

Well the wide band is installed-what an eye opener. I can't explain all the info on the dyno sheet, but there are a few answers from the wideband. The richness was from the front SU being way off on the mixture setting. When I was doing my adjusting of the mixture nut, i wasn't getting the nut bottomed out from the start because the nut was hitting on a clamp on the backing plate of the air breather. So instead of starting out at zero I was stsrting out around a turn and half. The rear carb was running very lean, so maybe the two mixtures together was rich, but not enough to produce smoke-as implied. I discovere this after zcon, but before I hooked up my wideband. Infact, when I went to readjust here recently, I realized that i hadn't adjusted the air mixture screw on the linkage-so at 2000 rpm the front carb was pulling air and the rear was almost dead. It amazing that the car ran as good as it did for 3000 miles last year. Maybe that's why my MPG was so good to ZCON at about 28mpg. This may also be the reason the AFR's dropped way lean above 5100 as shown on the graph. So now I start looking at my AFR numbers according to my wideband. At the present time I have dual exhausts with a bung on each bank. The wideband is hooked up to the front bank. In my dislexic mind the numbers look good-17.5 at cruise, until someone points out my error. So I went from way rich on the front SU before discovering the mixture issue, to running lean after adjustment according to my wideband. Are you confuse yet-I am! So anyway, I have got the numbers on the front carb where they should be, running around 14.5 at cruise. Both carbs are drawing correctly also. I haven't switched the wideband to the rear bank to see those numbers yet, but the mixture screws are very close at this point. How does it feel on power, better, but not huge. I have some more seat time needed, but it seems that maybe the SM needles may be too much for my L24. The reason i say this is because my AFR numbers seem to eventually run below 12 at WOT towards the upper rpms. After some more seat time I might consider installing the original needles back into the SU's to see the number then. Don't know if it is possible to lower the SM needles into the jet to adust mixtures that way. Once i get the AFR number where I am fairly happy, I plan on going back to the dyno to play with timing. I plan on starting at 10 btdc and work my way up to the limit of power. I am still running at 36 total with no detonation, but is this where the best power is at? This wideband is not the end-all tool, but this will be a crucial tuning tool.

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/_mad_kaw_/?action=view&current=MVI_2290.mp4 Put your stereo headsets on and listen to the music

I wish i could give firm numbers to add into this conversation, but i am determined to get some. My slightly modified L24 with SU's runs great with SU's-that are almost new. My butt dyno was shot down at the 1/4 mile track and i was disappointed, but again the car feels strong. I am determined to get the most I can out of my SU's using a newly installed wideband and a dyno to tune. I have a almost new set of Mikuni 40's sitting on a shelf begging to be bolted on, but I am holding off until I have exhausted my options with my bolt on SU's. I want a real- measurable comparision of properly tune options. First the SU's and then the Mikuni's. I have the bolt-on headers and modified exhaust, cam, bigger valves, slight port work, better ignition and again I was disappointed at the track. It is all about tune at this point since the dyno showed a definite lean point at the power band. Every engine is slightly different and it is difficult to give exact comparisions-just pass along war stories. I wish that Hybridz would do a comparison with engines and modifications as was done with the wind tunnel experiments. Starting with a baseline on a dyno and start tuning and adding on "bolt-ons" and read the results. I would throw some money at that as i did with the wind tunnel tests-it would interesting!!

PM'd

Selling my 81 ZXT to someone in louisville KY and would love to find someone to refer him to for any help working on this car. Thanks

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/_mad_kaw_/?action=view&current=MVI_2290.mp4

Not sure how to describe this piece, so just check out the pic. I need the connector that is circled that connects all these vacuum lines(brass colored), I need this ASAP sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

I got one from my 71-it should work. 20$ plus shipping. you can e-mail me sfinnerty@indy.rr.com with shipping info and i'll send a pic.

Thanks for the update, I will definitely check that out. That beats tearing out the dash to find leaky vacuum hoses.

UUMMMMMMM, that car for sale is mine Interesting what the AC switch directs the ecu to do when it's on. I don't really have an idling issue, it's just at the higher rpm around 3000rpm.

Only certain years will work, and I think it has to be the CLSD version to mate with the axles. There is a 510 site that list's all the diffs and especially the r160 an 180's.

I've tried searching this several times, but haven't found someone with a similiar experience on their 81ZXT. Engine performs great under all conditions except when a selection on the auto climate control demands the use of the A/C compressor,i.e. defrost mode or a/c. If I have any selection on the climate control other than economy, the engine will stumble badly around 3000rpm. I have checked all the vacuum lines that I can see and replaced all that I can get a hold of. The only ones that would be question would be in the dash. The second I turn the climate control off, the engine smooths out. Is this a vacuum problem or electrical I wonder. Anyone dealt with this issue? Another member is trouble shooting the same issue and has replaced his AAC valve, but has yet tested this. I have removed this valve along with the EGR on my car.

Find a truck repair shop that makes hydraulic lines and take your old ones in there and tell them to duplicate them-it cost me 90$!

I'm in the process of setting my car up for "distributorless" ignition. Great write up -but I still get confused aabout the trigger angle stuff. I look at your diagram of the trigger wheel and the location of the sensor and I question the location of the sensor in regards to rotation and TDC. I guess I keep thinking that since the wheel rotates clockwise that the sensor should be advanced of the tdc-not after as in the diagram. I plan on trying a Hall sensor and drilling my flywheel as X64 did on his car, but I plan on using 36-1 pattern. I'm getting to the point that I need to locate my sensor and I want to get this right. When I set my engine to TDC on #1 and install my flywheel, I set it up so the missing tooth is about the 10 o'clock position(looking at the engine from the front). I had planned on setting up the sensor around 90 degrees 'advance' of that or about the 2 o'clock position as did X64 on his set up. Does it matter if the missing tooth is before or after the sensor with respect to rotation at TDC, or is more important to MS that you know the degrees of seperation? I have read the Megamanuals until I am blue in the face and it still baffles me about trigger angle. I have read that the EDIS prefers a certain trigger angle, but you can also do like X64 and dial in your specific angle. Anyone can help the dislexic

Maybe you could try something like this; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90889-wasted-spark-ignition-no-edis/ but drill 36 holes, that's what I am going for. The hall effect sensors are 20$ and very accurate to very high RPM's.

I can only answer for the 8.5 +4. I have them on my car with no flares-but they barely fit up front with 245/45 17's on there. I think they would look okay with the ZG's and you could possibly use a small spacer to get the look you want.

My wildwoods have been the most significant change I have made to my car. Welcome to a true performance car brake system. The brakes inspire confidence when driving and they look blingy too!

Bo, instead of pulling out the radiator and pulling off the pulley and doing ALL that work, you could just take the easy route and pull the tranny, clutch and flywheel and attach the degree wheel there. Hope I made it easier for you

Sorry for the confusion-I'm learning as I go. What i am trying to ask is-if when i set up TDC, and the sensor winds up being 88 degrees from TDC, can you input that exact advance number in MS.Another words, is there that kind of flexibility with the programming, or does the sensor need to be located at certain degree intervals(ie 50, 60,90) I realize the advance degreeing of the sensor is to allow for ignition advance,

Thanks for the info. After much reading I realized this was the case. Do you know the maximum degrees you can utilize with the MS and I am guessing that you can input the exact degree based on where you place your sensor.

I am wanting to set-up a crank sensor for ignition purposes on my S-30. I have been reading this thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90889-wasted-spark-ignition-no-edis/ I am going to have to remove my flywheel to fix a leaking rear main(another story), but I thought this would be an opportune time to try and accomplish this task. I am a bit confused at the method from the OP for determining where the holes that were drilled. My plan is different, but I hope achieve the same result. I am planning on determining a good place for the Hall sensor on the flexplate, as in the original post.I would drill the flexplate, but not install the sensor yet. I was then going to put a degree wheel on the crank after finding TDC of #1 cylinder. I would then mark the flywheel thru the Hall sensor hole on the flexplate to drill. From there I would turn the crank in the proper direction and mark every 60 degrees for the TDC for the next cylinders. This should give me a mark on the flywheel for every cylinder. After marking the flywheel and crankshaft so that they would be installed in the same location with respect to each other, I would remove the flywheel and drill out 5 of the six marks as in the OP and drill the other side of the sixth. Is there a problem with this plan? I realize that the OP set his up for a 90 degree trigger, but why not set it up for TDC?

You might say the Mad Max had a little influence there

What other engine could look this good by just using it's stock bits????? Yes it's old and yesterdays technology, but it still is a remarkable machine in every aspect. Kind of like this old kawasaki 1000LTD I redid, there wasn't hardly a bike out there that had a better combination when it came to looks and sound. The engine was just gorgeous with all of that curvy aluminum.