madkaw

I got one from my 71-it should work. 20$ plus shipping. you can e-mail me sfinnerty@indy.rr.com with shipping info and i'll send a pic.

Thanks for the update, I will definitely check that out. That beats tearing out the dash to find leaky vacuum hoses.

UUMMMMMMM, that car for sale is mine Interesting what the AC switch directs the ecu to do when it's on. I don't really have an idling issue, it's just at the higher rpm around 3000rpm.

Only certain years will work, and I think it has to be the CLSD version to mate with the axles. There is a 510 site that list's all the diffs and especially the r160 an 180's.

I've tried searching this several times, but haven't found someone with a similiar experience on their 81ZXT. Engine performs great under all conditions except when a selection on the auto climate control demands the use of the A/C compressor,i.e. defrost mode or a/c. If I have any selection on the climate control other than economy, the engine will stumble badly around 3000rpm. I have checked all the vacuum lines that I can see and replaced all that I can get a hold of. The only ones that would be question would be in the dash. The second I turn the climate control off, the engine smooths out. Is this a vacuum problem or electrical I wonder. Anyone dealt with this issue? Another member is trouble shooting the same issue and has replaced his AAC valve, but has yet tested this. I have removed this valve along with the EGR on my car.

Find a truck repair shop that makes hydraulic lines and take your old ones in there and tell them to duplicate them-it cost me 90$!

I'm in the process of setting my car up for "distributorless" ignition. Great write up -but I still get confused aabout the trigger angle stuff. I look at your diagram of the trigger wheel and the location of the sensor and I question the location of the sensor in regards to rotation and TDC. I guess I keep thinking that since the wheel rotates clockwise that the sensor should be advanced of the tdc-not after as in the diagram. I plan on trying a Hall sensor and drilling my flywheel as X64 did on his car, but I plan on using 36-1 pattern. I'm getting to the point that I need to locate my sensor and I want to get this right. When I set my engine to TDC on #1 and install my flywheel, I set it up so the missing tooth is about the 10 o'clock position(looking at the engine from the front). I had planned on setting up the sensor around 90 degrees 'advance' of that or about the 2 o'clock position as did X64 on his set up. Does it matter if the missing tooth is before or after the sensor with respect to rotation at TDC, or is more important to MS that you know the degrees of seperation? I have read the Megamanuals until I am blue in the face and it still baffles me about trigger angle. I have read that the EDIS prefers a certain trigger angle, but you can also do like X64 and dial in your specific angle. Anyone can help the dislexic

Maybe you could try something like this; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90889-wasted-spark-ignition-no-edis/ but drill 36 holes, that's what I am going for. The hall effect sensors are 20$ and very accurate to very high RPM's.

I can only answer for the 8.5 +4. I have them on my car with no flares-but they barely fit up front with 245/45 17's on there. I think they would look okay with the ZG's and you could possibly use a small spacer to get the look you want.

My wildwoods have been the most significant change I have made to my car. Welcome to a true performance car brake system. The brakes inspire confidence when driving and they look blingy too!

Bo, instead of pulling out the radiator and pulling off the pulley and doing ALL that work, you could just take the easy route and pull the tranny, clutch and flywheel and attach the degree wheel there. Hope I made it easier for you

Sorry for the confusion-I'm learning as I go. What i am trying to ask is-if when i set up TDC, and the sensor winds up being 88 degrees from TDC, can you input that exact advance number in MS.Another words, is there that kind of flexibility with the programming, or does the sensor need to be located at certain degree intervals(ie 50, 60,90) I realize the advance degreeing of the sensor is to allow for ignition advance,

Thanks for the info. After much reading I realized this was the case. Do you know the maximum degrees you can utilize with the MS and I am guessing that you can input the exact degree based on where you place your sensor.

I am wanting to set-up a crank sensor for ignition purposes on my S-30. I have been reading this thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90889-wasted-spark-ignition-no-edis/ I am going to have to remove my flywheel to fix a leaking rear main(another story), but I thought this would be an opportune time to try and accomplish this task. I am a bit confused at the method from the OP for determining where the holes that were drilled. My plan is different, but I hope achieve the same result. I am planning on determining a good place for the Hall sensor on the flexplate, as in the original post.I would drill the flexplate, but not install the sensor yet. I was then going to put a degree wheel on the crank after finding TDC of #1 cylinder. I would then mark the flywheel thru the Hall sensor hole on the flexplate to drill. From there I would turn the crank in the proper direction and mark every 60 degrees for the TDC for the next cylinders. This should give me a mark on the flywheel for every cylinder. After marking the flywheel and crankshaft so that they would be installed in the same location with respect to each other, I would remove the flywheel and drill out 5 of the six marks as in the OP and drill the other side of the sixth. Is there a problem with this plan? I realize that the OP set his up for a 90 degree trigger, but why not set it up for TDC?

You might say the Mad Max had a little influence there

What other engine could look this good by just using it's stock bits????? Yes it's old and yesterdays technology, but it still is a remarkable machine in every aspect. Kind of like this old kawasaki 1000LTD I redid, there wasn't hardly a bike out there that had a better combination when it came to looks and sound. The engine was just gorgeous with all of that curvy aluminum.

Bo, It seems like a very useful tool. Have you used to "g-tech" to measure improvements in acceleration? Are you using an inductive clamp for rpms or did you wire the LMA direct to the tach? I'd love to find a way to measure fuel pressure with it. I know it will just take the right sensor.

I have been doing some reading up on this product and I am considering it for my Z. Though my car is only N/A at the present time, I thought this would be an interesting tool for engine tuning. I have installed a LC-1 and would like to use the LMA-3 in conjunction with it to monitor, or more importantly datalog engine parameters. With the LMA-3 I could include rpms in my datalogging; and if I wanted MAP. I would also like to monitor fuel pressure, but i'm not sure how that will be done. It seems that electric fuel pressure guages are spendy and all I would need is the sensor or transducer to run it through the LMA-3. Anyone done this type of set-up?

I agree that you will only guessing without a wideband. I thought my carbs were dialed in pretty good until I got on a dyno and they showed running way lean at WOT in 3rd gear. I could change the oil in the SU's, but without a wideband I wouldn't know if the change was good or not--unless my butt dyno indicated otherwise. Hence, the wideband is installed, just no real world testing yet. I have read both arguments of thicker and thinner oil, but have opted for close to stock for now. Can't wait to drive around with the wideband to see what is really happening. Probably the best mod is a Z therapy rebuild:)

I really like this set-up compared to the VR sensor. It is clean and simple, but having a hard time finding info on where to drill holes on the crank. I am trying to wrap my head around the 90 degree trigger. Could you point me towards some articles or add to your explanation on the setting up the flywheel for this. thanks

I bought this book to help me understand fuel injection systems and how they work. Though there is a ton of good info on this site, i needed and better format to learn. I am glad i bought this book because it lays things out in a way i can better understand the process. My car is just running SU's at the time, but plan to move towards ITB's in the future. I want to methodically make this transition and hopefully do it right the first time. This book, or any book of this nature, will help anyone understand basics that will help make use of these forums better. A good example was a thread i started about grounding the LC-1. There was instructions with the LC-1, but i found them confusing. The book actually laid out a diagram that was easy to understand. I am not trying to sell any particular book, but maybe just trying to relay my solution to my steep learning curve.

I have learned a lot from this thread, but the best part that I learned is that I don't need to mess with this set-up----just bolt it on! That leaves much more time and energy to finish mocking up my cold air box for the triples! Plus dialing them in will also take a little time--I'm sure!

jacob, I am also just finishing up installing my LC-1 and I ended up laying mine under my center console. I am ASSuming that I won't need to access the controller plug, but the serial ports only. I just wanted it out of the way and I found a hole for it under the console by the fuse box. The harder part was finding a place for all the extra cable wires that came with the controller. As far as a power goes, I poked around with my meter since I had my heater panel out and searched for a 12v switched. I found(going by memory here) a hot switched that was an extra wire off of the blower fan plug. I believe the amp draw is very small for the LC-1 since it only requires a 5amp fuse, so I would think any power source would be okay. On a 73 you should have a fuel pump wire that is fused under there somewhere, unless you are actually using the electric pump wiring. A side note, grounding procedure is critical with all of your components, so take care to follow instructions there.

I am looking at my instruction book that came with my Mikuni set-up for the L24-L28 and it shows the wall mounted part of the linkage needing to be 'raised above the seam'. Now my set-up is using the Mikuni manifold with the short runners. Don't know if that helps, but I haven't tried to install my Mikuni's yet since I am still working on my top secret cold air box.