madkaw

Dave, I will take some pics Sunday, but I put the proportioning valve and the hydraulic brake along the console on the passenger side like Dave shows on his AZC site. It's a PITA to plumb and took me a long time to run it thru the body, that is why I am concerned about getting these flares correct since i have the lines bent already. I probably dumped a cup full of brake fluid on my floor with my first attempt bleeding my brakes since my flares sucked so bad. Of course I didn't notice right away where the fluid was going:oops:

Yes the adapter has a step and the instructions showed having the top of the tube even with the first step. It also said to press the adapter down and stop just before it reaches the clamp. Another words, don't screw it down until it bottoms on the clamp. What would be considered enough sealing area? The lines I bought had probably 30% more then what I could fabricate. Sorry no pics-I'm out of town.

Thanks Jon, the instructions just had an arrow pointing towards the top of the tube and said chamfer. You couldn't determine if the arrow was pointing to the inside or outside.

What determines the amount of sealing surface area? It seems that the flares I made had less sealing area then the lines I bought . So you chamfered both ID and OD -hmmmm When I get back in town I will try all this advice before I throw in the towel-thanks

You can see the off-center flare looking down the end of the tube. So are you saying that they do come out off centered sometimes?

The instructions that came with the tool said to tighten the wing nut closest to the line first then tighten the other nut. Honestly, I don't know if I checked for them being parallel(exactly), this maybe where I am screwing up. Does your tool require a chamfer on the end of the cut? Is your adapter machined flat around the stem part, or does it have a taper? It is exceptionally hard to keep the adapter perfectly perpindicular to the line making the first flare. I was actually concerned that the stem part was not the exact diameter of the line-there seems to be too much slop which exacerbates the situation of keeping the press perpindicular. This really seems to be an art, now I know why other guys have posted of problems.

Basically I did the same thing as you. My biggest problem is getting the first adapter to sit square on the tube to get that an even squish. My brake tool instructions showed putting a chamfer on the end of the tube before using the adapter. I am assuming the chamfer is on the outside of the tube since the adapter is machined in an inverted 45 around the stem. The pipe cutter leaves a bit of an angle on the end but the adapter does not sit solidly on the end of the brake line. I have practiced about 30-40 times to make a good flare, but I am lucky to get 1 out of 25 that look symetrical. I might have to just take it down the road, I'm about done f---in with it.

I am installing all new brake lines in my car along with my wildwood set up from AZC. I bought a brake line kit off of ebay that had the proper ends for our cars, but I need to cut and flare some ends for my proportioning valve. I only have to make 2 ends, but I am having no luck. I am using the autozone(probably harbor frieght version) free tool and I can't seem to make a good looking flare. The instructions with the tool are vague at best. The instructions say to chamfer the end after you cut the length, but it seems that my tubing cutter already does that. I imagine the chamfer is to allow the tool to seat squarely against the line so it squishes flat and square. Then you follow with the tool to make the 45 flare. The problem for me seems that the flare doesn't come out centered in the line , maybe because the it didn't get squished squarely on the first step. It also seems the instructions are vague about how much line sticks out of the tool clamping device before you get started. I would love to hear any advice on this if anyone wants to give some.

Sorry, can't give any reports of the engine running since I haven't started it yet. The car is apart for paint and I didn't want to assemble it just to start the motor. Most of the things done on this motor are right out of "how to modify your datsun engine" book. The bigger valves will not clear the block so you need to clearance the side of the bores , plus give room for breathing. I put the biggest valves I could fit in the head which brought my chamber size down to about 41.5, so the clearances will also help reduce compression by reducing the chamber size slightly. If you saw the head chambers I also unshrouded as much as I could. Basically you are notching the bore like they did on the l26 with the bigger valves. It should run strong--if I ever get this thing done.

Rossman, when I ever get my laptop back from the shop:mad: I post some pics of how my block (l24) was notched for my bigger valves on my early e-88 head. I don't have exact instructions on how too, but I know the machinist used the stock gasket as the reference to transfer marks. Good luck! I just remembered that I have the pics posted on CCZC. Just look up the photos under Madkaw. I have pics of both the head and the block if that will help you.

Try Pattersons driveshaft in plainfield(west side of Indy), good guy!

I'm using the kit right now and it's not bad. The fitting are correct thread but the I wish they had made the line a little longer. You will have to use a union just to make the front brake line to the passenger side. They do supply enough unions. The lines bend easy by hand. I bought the smaller kit and there is more then enough lines to do the whole car.

Actually,I drive oversized roller coasters for a living

Anyone have any sources or ideas for dealing with the brakeline rubber blocks that secure the brake lines on the firewall??? I can't find any decent solution and mine are dryrotted to the point of falling apart.

Datfreak, on a 240z you will have to trim the rear quarter lip,or roll the lip, to get 235's. You will have plenty of room on the inside rear, but the front is tighter. I currently have 245/45/17 on mine with stock suspension. I had to trim almost all the lip away at the 10 thru 3 o'clock postion on the rear. The front perch had to be beaten in flat to resume the same clearance I had with the 235's. I will be suprised if it never rubs, but I did run the suspension thru its full travel. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135971&highlight=hyper+black

thanks for posting that nice Z. I have been debating colors and silver is at the top of the list. What version of silver is that? Very nice work!

I thought I would update the thread . I finally bought tires and I put on some 245/45/17 general hp ultimaxs. I decided to push for the 245 since there was a bit more selection in this size. Plus I feel I got a great deal on these tires that have been rated pretty high. They have a nice aggressive tread and they are still a 4 season tire. They were rated as having somewhat of a soft sidewall, but that might actually negate some of the harshness of the performance suspension of my Z. As far as the fitment, you'll need to trim quite a bit of the fenderlip off around the 10-3 o'clock position in the rear. I was able to bottom out the suspension with clearance. Whether it will be enough will be seen. There is plenty of room on the spring perch on the rear, just the outside will be close. The fronts took a little more attention to the spring perch. I actually grinded down the radius of the bottom coil on the spring so I could flatten out the spring perch. It doesn't take much at all to gain a 1/4 inch and that's all you have in the end. I actually gained back everything I lost going from 235's to 245's Sorry, no overall pics yet since i just finished up fitting everything and haven't got the car off the jacks yet. Here's a couple shots though!!

I just went thru this weeks ago. Search Racer brown and you'll find out everything including a contact ##

Well you didn't waste any time make use of your new tools. Looks like an average job.

I thought i would share my experience of working on a old 911 this past month. I'm just a decent mechanic that takes on side jobs to support my habit, but lately it takes all my time from a habit(1971 240). But for a dad who is now paying a tuition at IU for his- not so little girl- I have to do some thing to support my hobby. Fortunetly I have had the oppurtunity to work on another member's Z and now this Porsche. I guess the suprise for me was the lack of aftermarket for the old Porsche. Not that I haven't found any parts, but the repair panels for the car were universal and sucked. I had to replace the front pan and tank support and the panels fit so badly had to rework them to fit well. I guess I thought the sheet metal would have been better then what was available for our cars, but no! I am not a bodyman , so this might be old news for you guys and now I can see why body shops shy away from this work. This Porsche owner has been on vacation while i've had his car and I think he will be suprised at his bill when he gets it. I was also suprised at the lack of info on the internet. I am so spoiled with this site and CZCC and Zcar for easy info that I can get quickly. I have not found that yet searching for the older porsche stuff. If anyone has experience with the older Porsches , drop me a line. As much as I like the Porsche, I wouldn't trade it for my Z. Infact, I can't wait to get the oil leaking thing out of my garage!!

I have surfed thru your threads so i might be missing something but I'd say your taking a big risk right now. That is not enough oil pressure at idle, especially at 1500rpm. Like Woldson said, it should be more like 60psi, especially on a cold engine. This could account for the hotter temperatures-especially with these motors. Buy a new oil pump and prime it correctly. Check this out http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23392&highlight=cam+oil

Everytime I see a black Z I think more about doing mine black. Looks good!

here's a pic of my X pipe and it's location. I placed mine for convience and room. Of course my application is for the L6 ,and I had to use room to get the pipes located in order to make an X. No real science here, I used a MSA header with unequal length pipes so I made the longest run to the X pipe come from the shortest collector pipes. I tried finding a pre-fab X pipe , but most were 2.25 or 2.5 inch and my pipes were 2", so I made my own which worked out since this was completely custom. I am not saying that I know what I'm doing, just some input. There is a lot of talk about 2 pipes for inline 6's and wave pulses and such, I thought the X pipe was the best possible solution for good sound and flow. Hope it works!!!!

The was the one thing I wanted to alter about the Z look was the rear end. I have a hang up about being symetrical, and the one pipe wasn't doing it for me. What a PITA, but it will be worth it when it's done. I'm happy with it, but I need to get it together with some paint now!

I didn't see any reference to such rockers in the article. There were two different types that had different lash pad surfaces if that is what you are talking about. I have the complete set-up with rockers springs and everything so as long as I keep them together I should be alright.