DemonZ

Same here.

on second thought, that statistic may or may not take into account what the INITIAL listing price was.

Paid slightly below listing for 6yr old house. Prev. owners lost money from what they paid, not including fees (they sold at the bottom of market). As a former realtor, I recall some statistic that houses sell 2-3% of their listing price, and from my experience that is true. I would always try and get it for less, but if you know the market (seen enough comparables, 10 or so...) you can gauge the market fairly well. If houses are moving, or there are multiple offers, best to put in your best offer, get the P/S agreement signed "subject to inspection" and try asking for repairs/money later after the inspection turns up issues. As a buyer there is no drawback from using an agent, in WA at least, the seller is paying for it. Obviously you have to trust your agent. If the agent is representing both ends of the deal, then you have to trust your agent even more. Most times it isn't a problem, and is not uncommon. If you feel uneasy, or that the agent does not have your best interest at heart, find another agent. There are plenty that would be happy to get the job. A buddy of mine recently went with a nightmare buyers agent who was totally favoring the builder (probably had multiple deals with him) and kept getting completion pushed back a few months at a time. I told him to get out of the deal, and find something else. Good thing he did. They finally completed the place 9 months later, and he likes his new house better to boot. Personally, I've never met a scum bag like that. But they do exist.

LOL! You funny guy!! My favorite is the playboy symbol.

Mmmmm... looks good. Is there a reason for the satin finish on the chambers?

Payment sent. Thanks.

That's pretty mean!

linky no workie. Overloaded?

hmm... I don't think she wrecked the car. It looks more like an intentional 180 publicity stunt.

It's a scam. I see the same car there over and over.

that was crazy!

what did you end up with, 3/8 or 1/2, stainless or mild?

That is my thinking exactly. Is the power cutting out around 5,300?

That was SOoo inspirational. I feel great now! Food for the soul.

AutoX mag had a 240Z article "Demon Datsun". I liked the name and thought along those lines: "bad"=good. Thus DemonZ

Yes I tried PM also. I'll probably end up looking the arse here.

I understand people have busy lives, and can't get to their email every day. BUT, if you have something for sale, then you should freakin check your emails, and respond accordingly. A response is common curtesy, e.g., no longer available, let me think about it, or whatever......

Very cool pics. That wreck looked like an accident waiting to happen: bald front tire and so much rust the drivers seat fell out.

RE: online poker, I don't know about the real money games, but the online free games are a scam. Their algorithm is not random, it favors the chip leader, especially if you have like 3x more than everyone else. Makes it look easy, so you think you can do it for real. Noticing that, I wouldn't trust their pay games. Plus it's too easy for cheats tag teaming and cahoots.

what's minimum hardware needed to run this (graphics card, ram, cpu)?

I also have a HF cheapo, cuts crooked. What helps is if you don't overheat the blade, the resin gumms up and doesn't allow the wheel to cut properly. I squirted water on mine while cutting, seemed to help. I have to dissagree with the thicker blades. The thinner blades cut faster (smaller kurf), therefore lets you ease down with less force. Maybe there are better quality blades out there?? My blades were from HF.

I watched all the vids last nite. I couldn't help but notice the cockpit noise was atrocious. And there was that mechanical popping sound (suspension?) everytime it cornered a certain way. Very tempting if they refined it more...

I fully understand that a small mistep can have catastrophic consequences. Mistakes are unforgiveable dealing with lethal forces in cold, rushed, dark, uncomfortable circumstances. I assume lines are hot unless verified (by me). That being said, if proceedure and sequence is stictly followed, all should be ok. --The main switch will always be off when gen. is connected. --The grid is always disconnect from gen. I saw a Transfer switch at Homers for $300, but don't have time for it right now. So I want to know more about the wiring to the dryer outlet. My dryer is 3 pole, but my gen. is 4. What should I do? Will the gen. give ALL available power through the 240 outlet? That is, the sum of all power from gen will get pulled through the 240 recepticle, and there will be no benefit to also using the 120 volt plug ins.

I decided to just run extension cords to power strips, then to appliances until I researched this more fully, since there were so many dire warnings from my search. The 8k/10k was running my fridge, small microwave, (2) 1500W space heaters, (5) flourescent shop lights, and a couple other small devices. One gen. circuit breaker kept tripping because the heaters were on same breaker, when i seperated them all was fine and gen. was running strong, didn't sound strained at all. I think it could've powered more than half the house easily. I wouldn't have tried to power any 220v like dryer or air compressor, at least not yet until I had all the essentials. Just as I was about to wire my gas furnace blower, I heard the power come back on from a radio I plugged in just for that reason. In all I got 2-3hrs on the gen, and still glad I bought it "just in case" next time, and it's another toy Plus my dad still doesn't have power so I'm sure he'll be happy. I sure appreciate the little things in life, like hot water, heat and roof over my head. Can't imagine what Katrina and other storm victims go through... When I have time, I'll make a double pole manual transfer switch. From what I gather, this safety device won't let you connect gen. power to the grid power (backfeeding) --it's either one or the other, never both. I suppose this makes it idiot proof, or in the event the main breaker fails??? nobody gets hurt/killed. Do I have that right? I gotta run and fix some vent hoods and shingles that blew off, and sinks that leak now from the 42 deg... nights. I guess the cold shrank the seals or something but I came home from inlaws to some puddles and was like huh? DAMN!!! And the gen is louder than I like. Time to make quiet hi-perfomance muffler, when I have time... Thanks guys!

or damage anything? Storm took out power to my house for the 5th day now. I bought an 8k/10k watt generator and want to run juice to the house outlets instead of running extension cords to each appliance I want to run. Question is, if I: 1) turn off the main breaker (200amp) at the breaker box in the house and 2) connect my gen. AC oulet to AC outlet of a room's circuit, then all that rooms' outlets should have juice (provided they share a circuit and switch). I plan to run power from the generator AC outlet -->extension cord-->pigtail (male to male connection) -->plug it into wall outlet: that would power that whole circuit, until the circuit breaker on the house or the circuit breaker on the generator trips. I would continue to do this will all 5 of my gen. outlets, powering each circuit I wanted to run juice to. This would save me from running an extension cord to each appliance I wanted to run, and essentially rewiring the whole house. In the event the power from the grid came back on, there would be no harm because the house is disconnected at the main breaker. So essentially the house is isolated/discrete from the grid. It's wired to my generator now. Is there a problem with this scenario or my line of thought?? Please chime in with your thoughts, especially any electricians out there or electrically minded people here???? Please help!! I plan on doing this in the morning, 10 hrs from now. Thanks in advance.