naviathan

Relays and ignition switch sounds like the next likely course...I wonder if that series of "bad" alts fried the voltage regulator? Can't remember if a 78 still has the voltage regulator, I know 77 does.

That shouldn't have anything to do with the rest of the electrical issues. How did this problem come up? Was it suddenly? Did it just happen after replacing a part?

Sounds like it could be the ignition switch or a fusible link. Download a copy of teh Factory Service Manual from http://www.xenons30.com and run through some of the troubleshooting tips.

Trigger wheel is only found in turbo dizzys. I would suspect the ignition module or the stator assembly inside the dizzy.

You beat me to it tuff! Happy Thanksgiving!!

That's exactly how the part numbers work. When they gave me the numbers at NISMO I asked if that was the case and they said it was just that simple.

Wow...3.5L? That would be an interesting read.

Very good to know. That amazes me, I would have probably never thought twice about balancing the pressure plate, but then again, I'm not running a lightweight flywheel and balanced anything yet...

Awesome, thank you to everyone that chimed in. Courtesy sent me to NISMO to get the part numbers, but once they had them it was good to go. The .220" were $3 each and the .260" were $3.65 each. They said because they had to order the .260" ones it would be about 4-6 days. Great customer service over there. Incase anyone needs this info: NISMO 1-888-833-3225 Lash Pads (AKA Rocker Valve Guides) .220" 99996M1220 .260" 99996M1260 Courtesy Nissan 1-800-527-1909

That must be nice. I just called my Local Nissan Parts Department and they can only get them in the stock size and they want $7 each before taxes for them.

That was only slightly condescending, thanks. I just assumed Nissan, if they had them at all, would carry only stock size pads for rebuilds. Hybridz.org is starting to get just as rude as zcar.com.

I checked Courtesy Nissan's site, but didn't see anything. Do you think Nissan can still get them in the sizes I need?

I got my head back from the machinist finally (second head since I screwed up the last one). It's an E88 using the N42 valves and a brand new schneider 290/290 .495/.495 cam (yes that's the MSA "Stage IV"). I just went through and did a check on the lash and it's even across the board, .260" Int and .220" Exh. After looking at MSA's pricing for individual lash pads I was hoping someone on here knew of a cheaper place to get them because they're insane. $5.95 per pad plus shipping?? Any leads would be great.

S13/14 maybe? Definetely a newer model and probably has the modded dash to match.

It could. Rotating the engine enough without a properly primed and pumping lubrication system could do damage. I wouldn't risk it myself. Standard compression test is 5 rotations per cylinder. That's 30 rotations total on just assembly lube and whatever oil used in the assembly process.

1.98 for regular on Camp LeJeune this morning. It's usually several cents more than out in town so it's probably at least 4 cents less in Jacksonville NC.

I would run it before doing any diagnostic work. As you stated, the rings haven't even broken in yet.

That's about right. When I meaasured them up it was roughly an 1/8th of an inch difference.

A P90 maybe, but most P90A heads are hydrolic. Honestly, I think you may have a P90 with N42 valves. If what you're dealing with is a long valve stem then I would give that the safe bet. Aftermarket valves for the N series heads are abundant, but not for the P series so the proper thing to do is use N series valves and have them cut down to size. Maybe someone didn't do this (or know this)?

$2.03 in Jacksonville NC.

Knoppix? Interesting...referencing the famous Linux Live CD? Onto your post. I'd have to agree with the others. Get the appropriate tools for flaring and bending brake tubing, buy the raw materials and do it yourself. Use a string and tape to get a measurement on how long a piece of tube you need. remember to add 2-4 inches to the string length to account for tube length lost in all the bends and any oops in flaring.

I can't see the pics in this thread because of network restrictions at the office, but the first question I have after reading through the thread is, what head is this? If it's a P series head and someone put N series valves in it that would make the valve stem longer in relation to the head than stock and it's not unheard of.

It's amazing that after decades of racing the 240z is still placing in the top 3.

Interesting thought, but I think it would fall well out of most people budgets.

I said high octane because that's what killed two head gaskets on my 81 before I figured out what was going on with it. Now with a higher lift cam I could probably knock that down considerably, but I'm not sure I want to take the chance of detonating and breaking ring lands this time instead of the head gasket. Of course I firmly believe one of the first things that needs to be replaced on a stock Z before you start going overboard with upgrades is the EFI. Either go carbed or pick up an after market system lik MS.