naviathan

No no. What the manual is referring to is the switched 12V line. You need to chose a line coming off the ignition switch that is off when the ignition is off and powered in BOTH the RUN position and the START position of the ignition switch. If you don't and it shuts off when the switch is turned to start obviously your fuel injection will lose power and not start. There are several wires off the ignition; Only one will be hot in both positions because most accessories aren't necessary to start the car.

That test light is a continuity checker. There's probably a relay between the inputs and the injector outputs that breaks the continuity.

Try it between the switched 12V and the injector 12V.

Check the injectors 12V against a chassis ground and then check the 12V on the relay board the same way. I might wrong, but the way you described this problem it sounds like you're going form a 12V to a 12V positive.

I have 1 77, but 3 S130s including 1 turbo and one fairlady.

Pressure to 0 is very very bad.

Interesting...I donated, but I don't see an option to change mine...

Your car uses electronic engine management. If the alternator isn't providing enough voltage/amperage for the EFI then I think that would cause it to run rough, don't you?

I have one. Someone put an L26 bored over to a L28 in my 77 and they left the eccentric on the cam bolt. On a side note, why are you going from an electronic metered fuel leak to a mechanicaly metered fuel leak?

The money is used for site maintenance and other necessities to keep this place going. It's hard work to keep up a website like this, not to mention the cost of servers and the DNS Registrations.

What about this scope? Seems decent for the price, but I'm no expert in scopes. http://www.allspectrum.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=28

Green/Yellow on the ZX goes to the Signal flasher which is wired differently from what I can gleam out of the 78 wiring diagram.

Factory Service Manual

Oh wait...are we talking the connector on the back of the ignition switch?

The FSM shows your ignition starter wire as blue/yellow. EDIT: Black and yellow...sorry...

Love it when that happens. Now if I can get the one in my 81ZX working. A friend of mine tried the steel wool trick to find the bad connections without any luck. I'm guessing it's probably going to need a whole new trace patch done.

Missing the start lead off the ignition? That's interesting. What year/model is your Z? Yes the battery negative does attach to the top starter mounting bolt to serve as a ground.

Not to induce further soap box banter, but don't forget the battery production costs.

From the website: See the attached pictures for examples. The instructions say to drill 7/8" holes using the base plate as a guide. How strong do you think these anchors are?

There's a set of TWM Triple Throttle Bodies in there now for $600 (Shameless plug)

Gotta love The Onion. Those reports are hilarious.

Who's calling names? You asked a question on two forums and got the same response from different people and still wanted something different. No one is calling names, just trying to figure out why the given response isn't good enough. The original article and most of the pics still there are from the 280z N/A to 280ZX Turbo AFM swap. The cressida uses the same L-jetronics EFI system. Use that as a reference and read some other articles on his site for some good info.

That's it, sorry. Everyone just uses Blue's site because it's the same thing.

Read up on the LM-1 Wide band system. You can pick one up for a good price at http://www.diyautotune.com

Interesting, someone just gave you the same response I did on zcar.com. I'm telling you, the steps are the same for the turbo AFM as they are for the cressida. Go ahead and don't take my word for it again, but I've been working on Z's a long time. not quite as long as some on here, but long enough to have 4 at home ranging from 77 to 83 in various states of rebuild.