naviathan

I think it was winter 2002 that I was stationed at Fort hood when it froze from San Antonio north on I35 and they completely shut down the interstate. I was on 35 when three semi trucks got stuck on an uphill slope. Just as we got the ice chipped out from under the tires enough for them to get going again the state troopers pulled up and stopped everyone again and shut it down. I ended up waiting three hours for sand trucks that never showed. I got tired of waiting and pulled through the shoulder onto an access road to get back to another side highway to get home. It was a long trip at no faster than 35, but in a 2wd S10 I wasn't going to risk ice skating off the road into the woods and never being heard from again.

I would say a sticking pressure regulator is causing the issue, but without more info it's hard to tell.

Why would anyone use a non resistorized plug in an electronic EFI car?

Sounds like a solid mount to keep the nose of the diff from moving under heavy load changes.

Knowing what year and model you have helps, but it sounds like a malfunctioning power valve. On my ZX with the crappy autotemp system I have to reach to the back of the dash in the drivers compartment right beside the heater box and push or pull the armeture going to the power valve (really it's a big vacuum diaphram) to change between hot and cold.

Is it possible the solenoid start wire popped off?

Dude, seriously...I don't know what you're welding with, but you need a MIG with gas. That is A LOT of spatter. Looks like straight wire with TOO much heat or an arc welder. Seriously, props for the work, it's a learning curve that's hard to overcome without an experienced welder to assist.

You're not going to find a harness specifically for a 280z. Their harnesses are universal, meaning you buy a select harness depending on max length and number of circuits you need, then cut to fit your vehicle.

I have to ask the same question...If the bearings were in how did you wear into the caps? Why do you need to replace them? While I'm at it, why do they call the thin steel inserts bearings when they seem to be more of a bushing? Just a thought...

I can see where they got their inspiration from.

Here here! Aren't we all! i'm just glad to see someone freely admit it! haha!

Eh? Come again? I had always heard the exact opposite...Well except the part about the notchy feel, but I prefer that feel anyhow. My concern would be gearing. Make sure you get the apropriately geared differential (and speedo cog) otherwise you could end up with high RPMs at highway speeds.

78+ had the internally regulated alts. 77 Does not, I have one and have thought long an hard about converting it, but I decided just to hold off on that whole car till I get some other projects out of the way.

HG leaking? Are there any deposits on the plug electrode?

Couple things come to mind: 1. Battery died after being disconnected - sounds like a bad battery. 2. You're swapping between an internally regulated and an externally regulated alternator - Are you swapping the external voltage regulator for the appropriate jumper plug for the ZX alt?

Wiring kit? What sort of wiring kit? Painless makes universal harnesses that have been used in all sorts of zcars. There is no factory replacement harness unless someone pulls a decent one from a parts car.

He's the one that sold me a "V07" crank back in 2005 while I was in Iraq gathering parts for my build. Got home and the crank looked funny to me so I checked it out. The part number (where it would normally say V07) was "worn" down and not readable. I found another part number on the crank I was able to reference online and took measurements just to be sure. He sent me a fine example of a standard L28 crank that needed to be reworked if I was ever going to use it. After realizing what happened I got his contact information and called him about it. He claimed someone else sold him the crank and he never used it or bothered to check it out before selling it on eBay and that it wasn't his fault. Of course I had no recourse because by the time I returned from Iraq the auction was long since deleted and the transaction records were archived by both Paypal and eBay. I hate scammers...

Sounds like you're getting power spikes. Could be a faulty voltage regulator. If you can datalog it check the voltage.

Awesome thanks for the info. My box came with assembly lube so I'm good on that.

I'm going to go with yes on this one. i'm pretty sure they're the same injectors.

Awesome reply, thanks Paul. I haven't been able to find ANY torque specs for these studs. The documentation that came with them just covers the threading process and not the torque.

That's quite the mix for the 79. I'd like to get my hands on that 3.364 R200 if anyone has one!!

Two quick questions: 1. Do I need to worry about any water jackets leaking through the studs that might require me to get the ARP thread sealer or am I good to go with the thread lube? 2. Tried emailing ARP about this, but go nothing back. Will the torque specs stay the same or should I pick it up a bit because of the MLS Head Gasket and upped compression?

Swap the head from the 75 onto the 82 block with a 2mm head gasket and throw on a MegaSquirt for some fun. Or take the time to tune the stock EFI if you want.

Sounds like an adventure... Sorry about the bad luck, hope it all gets better.