naviathan

More than likely the low battery voltage burned up the relay.

Everything is stock and it all works. I think maybe I just had the pressure too high for the stock pressure valve. I've heard that R134 runs at a higher pressure than the old R12.

Yeah, there's oil everywhere. I sprayed the engine compartment down, but now it just looks like I hit half the engine with a dress up kit, lol.

I topped off my A/C today because it was sitting just on the line at about 25 PSI (R134A converted system). I stepped it up to about 30PSI and everything seemed fine. Took it for a ride and everything blew nice and cold just like before, no real difference. Then I heard what sounded like a hose blow off. Popped the hood and there was freon all over the passengers side of the engine bay. It appears to have come from the little vent on the side of the sight glass. I wasn't aware the system had a pressure release? It still works, I haven't checked the pressure yet, but I kept going and the A/C is still blowing nice and cool.

Oh, I've checked all my hoses, cold and hot. All of my lines were replaced in the last year, even the PITA heater core lines going through the wall. So far so good, the radiator is staying full and I haven't had to add coolant yet.

If the fuel cut drops the injectors I would go that route because if you just cut spark then you're washing your cylinders and could end up fouling your plugs inadvertently. If the fuel cut is just killing the pump, don't use it. I've seen systems that cut fuel both ways, but the most common is injector cut off.

Another day of work, just at home this time.

Oh come on, I was hoping for a better come back than that...Eh oh well, what can you expect from a 300ZX... Just incase you are getting infuriated there, I'm only picking on you because that's what we do...

Hahaha, you might be right...

I thought the Shiro was in 86. I don't know for sure, I'm not a 300ZX type of guy...Isn't that a chick car?

I ran the Aluma-Seal stop leak through it and low and behold my hot restart problem went away. I was sure this was a timing issue, but it seems that my head gasket was leaking into the cylinders. Odd that nothing in the engine was showing it. I've been monitoring the temps and they seem to have stabilized. What I think was happening is that the pistons were pushing air into the system when it was running creating steam pockets that would make it overheat and when it was shut down hot the pressurized coolant would push into the cylinders wetting down the plugs just enough to cause some issues, but not show in the oil. I don't know why there weren't any deposits on the plugs, maybe it was just steaming them so they were clean, it's the only guess I have. I'm still watching it to see if it is still loosing coolant. Too early to tell I think.

To answer your questions: Yes you've listed everything that should be necessary except for the ECU. Some model of the Z didn't have O2 sensors. The MAF is actually the AFM (Air Flow Meter) and obviously you'll need the intake to go with the throttle body. In addition you'll need a large fuel feed line. IIRC the 240Z feed line is too small for EFI. You'll also need a high pressure fuel pump and EFI rated filter. Yes the pressure regulator is on the rail, but it's also a seperate piece that can be replaced. As for the head difference, yes you would have to cut injector holes into the top of the intake ports. If you are looking for something better than the SUs and more efficient, go with the MegaSquirt EFI setup as the stock Z setup isn't much more than an electronic carburator.

Maybe I'll just go the stop leak route tonight. I'm tired of chasing this one.

I have a coolant overflow, that's how I know I'm loosing coolant somewhere. The check light shows water and I have to go fill the overflow so it doesn't go completely empty. I'll have to try that pressure test. I know it has to be going somewhere, but I can't find it to save my life. Still the car shouldn't be over heating as easily as it does. It's not like I'm a newb, I know what I'm looking at, it's just completely eluded me somehow.

Yep, no deposits from coolant.

Ok, I've been over this in my head I don't know how many times. For the last couple months I've been refilling my coolant reservoir at least once a week. There's no coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant. The car will overheat at a stop, with or without the AC running. As long as I'm moving the temp stays right at or just below the halfway mark of the gauge. If I'm stuck in traffic for more than 5 minutes the gauge steadily climbs. I've replaced the water pump and the thermostat with a new one and clutch fan with a working one off my parts car. I've flushed the coolant system and everything is clean and green. I'm utterly stumped. I'm still loosing coolant and it's still overheating. The last thing I can come up with is pulling the head, having it checked and throwing a new head gasket on.

I agree. Reload the firmware and also find an anti-static mat to lay your work on. At least get some helping hands and hold it off the keyboard.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-260Z-280Z-Nissan-Datsun-Suspension-CAMBER-PLATES_W0QQitemZ200121267103QQihZ010QQcategoryZ33581QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hahaha, I love a good BRAAP satire. BTW I wasn't negating anything with my post, I was simply stating that the two major auto parts suppliers list them as freeze plugs. I fully agree that they are core plugs as I've done quite a bit of research in building a backyard foundry to do some casting work with. Never had time to follow through with it.

Several: 79 Fairlady_280Z 81 Daily Driver 82 and 83 Parts cars

Read... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=782554#post782554

Newer thermostats have a small hole in the middle of the valve to allow a small amount of coolant flow when the thermostat isn't open. Although looking at it again I don't think it's big enough to make a considerable difference. I found this online and according to the page they drilled the holes to allow air to escape from the block when filling it with coolant.

I'd still take the time to tap the holes and replace the rivets with something that will stay. Just me though I suppose.

It's also used to keep the air regulator on top of that plate from opening up after you shut the key off. Without it the air regulator will open the plate back up when the engine isn't cooled down creating a vacuum leak until the bi-metal strip heats up again and closes it. It's part of the warm up circuit and you probably don't want to remove it.

I'd like to see these panels, oldskoolZ.