PeterZ

Would this be an instantaneous load calculation simultaneuos to a train leaving Chicago in the opposite direction with an equal acceleration?

where's the CG

led's are great. I'm trying to implement the Chevy bowtie into the tail light lenses

Since you don't know me and may not trust me if you have a spare and want to ship it to me in San Jose I'll do it. It will only cost your shipping both ways. Last Thursday a racer friend received a bad new replacement BMW water pump the night he was supposed to tow to his race. I replaced the leaking plug and welded it up. His car prep needs some help (don't work on the car the day you tow) but he won Saturday's race. Have you looked at socket head pipe plugs? They can be made to mount flush with the surface and not look too badly on the car. There's also an "A" "B" epoxy from Jegs that my machinist likes well enough to use on the inside of intake manifolds. The balance tube is a little tricky to weld because they are full of carbon poo poo on the inside that wants to float out when the alloy is molten.

Take the clock out and look at it. It's looks like any other clock adjustment. There's a screw and a "+" or "-". Take your pick on which way to turn, (just don't cut the red wire.) I think you can adjust in the car but I'm waiting for the word from The Girl about why they all seem to run slowly or are broken.

I had the Olds 215 in a Toyota Celica around 1984. Still have a block or two, Jan's pistons, 4-speed bellhousing and parts to build one. Any takers? The car was fun and light but IMO the engine is past its time.

My girlfriend works on airplane instrumentation and she is looking at why the clocks all seem to be broken. I gave her 240 and 280 clocks to mess with. No update yet but there is an external adjustment for slow or fast clocks. I need to find her the proper voltage setting for the clock. I think they are on a pulsed 12v input and haven't found a spare "voltage regulator" (as my reference manual calls them) at the JY .

Great tips, Grumpy, but I can't drill a straight hole. I can weld without shaking too much so I use a MIG to TIG welder to weld a metal washer to the center of the bolt. Then I weld a nut to the washer. I cool the weld and then spray it with lube. Then I use a wrench on the welded nut to remove the broken bolt. This may take several attempts but I have had the greatest success with this method. The washer allows for some misalignment and also protects the area around the hole. Great for 240/280 cylinder head bolts that always seem to be broken between cylinder 3 and 4. (Cover the exposed surfaces with duct tape or wet cotton towels to avoid spatter damage) The thermal expansion of the bolt from welding helps loosen the threads after cooling. This even works when the bolt is below the surface. You must spot weld the bolt several times to build up material for the nut.

(You're lucky the original one still works. Hide it somewhere under the dash.) I recommend using an ohmmeter or a test light to make your owm schematic. Then buy a switch, or switches, to do the same job. Easier to get a non-crusty hazard switch and place it back in the hole.

Yeah, I just got my new helmetcamera.com set-up working for a race at Laguna. I know what you mean. Video for qualifying and racing looks like I was like sitting in the middle of a flash flood with all this $#!+ roaring past. I enjoyed the one time we raced DSR in the SRF group. Much more fun for me. P.S.: I highly recommend the Helmetcamera.com kit. The remote pushbutton start/stop and remote camera lens are great features.

I've seen those cars race too, they're a wild sight especially when they blow by me in the ITX car. They are 15 seconds faster than the ITX car at Laguna. I'm finally racing T-Hill in my DSR after some time off for repairs. I hope to get down to lap times like Paul's (and I have slicks). I managed to shorten my DSR with about ten other cars at Infineon a while back. This is the last race of the season so off I go.

Yo dude! Take off one of the sway bar end links and drive down the freeway (or whatever deserted road) at whatever speed you want for testing. Then you can have your own answer.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/chrome-moly.asp has info on TIG welding 4130. www.metalforming.com also has interesting reading. None recommend MIG welding but neither indicated why. I have MIG welded some additional bracing on a 4130 Z car cage and it looks great but one can't tell easily without testing it by crashing, right? The Lincoln article listed slow cooling to reduce internal damage. I think this has to do with heating and cooling of 4130 so preheating before MIG welding should be better than not.

I used to weld on nuts purchased from the hardware store. Don't remember the threads but they are the same as spark plugs threads.

Sorry, but I may not post attachments (and don't know how). I have some pictures that I can fax or email, send some info. Several good suggestions have ben proposed, have you tried any? The scavenge system can mount in the trunk, under the hood or even under the car by the tank. There are a few good-sized cannister filters (Fram) that could make for a good undercar solution with minimal fabrication.

Nice job on the lines. On my racers with stock tanks I use a "high capacity fuel filter" (HCFF) which is SCCA legalese for a scavenging system. A small auxiliary pump pulls fuel and air from the stock tank and fills the HCFF. The bubbles go to the top of the "filter" and then back to the tank. That is all that pump does is recirculate fuel and air and lkeep the HCFF full. The main engine fuel pump pulls fuel only from the bottom of the HCFF - no air there unless the fuel tank is bone dry. My HCFF holds almost one gallon so by the time it is dry the main tank is completely scavenged of fuel. I added an in-line check valve to the return line from the HCFF to the main tank - just in case. If the auxiliary pump quits the check valve prohibits the main pump from pulling air through the HCFF return line. Simple system really and you can use smaller a HCFF if you want to place it in a smaller space than something like the trunk of my BMW IT car. I used a smaller tank under the hood of my dirt car 'cuz there's no trunk firewall in that chassis. The Z also had an HCFF in the trunk area but I had to put a sheetmetal box around it. PS with this system you have no warning when the fuel is gone. When the carb(s) run out your'e coasting.

I have notched frame rails for turbo installs and such. If you can add material (webs) inside the frame rail you will help things out. Triangulate whatever you can and try not to make a high concentration of reinforcement in one spot or it will crack there (actually right next to it). Try smoothing the notch with 45 instead of 90 degree angles.

Changing the oil helps if the old oil is contaminated with fuel and blow-by gasses especially if the engine runs short distances. (The air filter breather hose sucks that in and the emissions go up.) Backing the timing off helps reduce the Oxides of Nitrogen emissions if they even test for it there. If you have a big cam I have found that backing off the valve adjustment waaaaya down so that they rockers almost fall off helps reduce the amount of valve overlap and the resulting HC emissions. Dont rev too high until you readjust the valves. Good luck.

I agree to check the front carb, To bee or not to bee, good call. Depends on what you are doing to cover off the carb inlet. Two fingers over the opening should be enough to make a change. If you put your hand over it and it makes a small change there's a big problem. To make one carb run leaner you can pinch off each fuel inlet hose at the nozzle. One way or the other (righ or lean) whould make the engine run happy if it truly is a fuel problem. Maybe a cootie got in and pluged the bowl vent on the top of the float chamber. Sticking a vacuum cap on them is a great way to trick a friend's car into not running right. You might lose a friend so be careful on how long you wait if he can't figure it out...

If you want to order by the dimensions try the McMaster-Carr catalog or, better yet, the MSC catalog (mscdirect.com) and look under power transmission/thrust washer. They have lots of fun stuff. Installing a barrier ring around the bearings helps the assembly live longer too.

Also try Omni-Fab (Bruce) He is near 17 and Camden 408 4921331 I used Art at A-Mac (near the SJ airport) for my bends 408 7279288

SU's are still good for big cams. You can bore them out for more air and larger butterflies. Early Z-car injection is a pretty simple system to diagnose and tune for mileage or performance. Sounds like the cold start injection system wasn't working properly on the car that needed starter juice. For Ol' Timer: I found most injection problems have been dirty connections, especially at the injector. You can listen for the injectors to electrically click (or not) with a stethoscope. The cheap-o kid's scopes work well enough. Also, some injectors gum up and won't open without some help. A test light will tell you much about such things too. Good luck all.

On the last one I did I drilled a larger holes through the top of the frame rail and inserted a tube for each bolt. I then welded the tubes and additional material to the top rails. That way the bolts don't try to deform the top portion of the rail. The tubes stick out slightly from the top rail so the welds didn't need grinding. Talk about overkill. It's practically a towing attachment but they haven't broken.

The stock intake runner on a 208 is smaller than the port in the head and probably won't like the amount of air your cam could deliver. If you stay with stock components you might be better off tuning the carbs to be leaner on cruise and richer at full throttle. Changing the profile on tapered needles is fun and easy if you have done them before. You'll definitely get better mileage and not have the engine run-on (with the key off) with properly set mixtures in the idle/part throttle range while enjoying the cam at the high end.

OOOhh, this sounds like fun. Have you done all the basic checking already -fuel pressure and volume, secondary ignition, throttle adjustments, syncronization and even making sure the tack reads accurately at high RPM? If you are lean at high RPM you can easily test by pulling the choke levers to drop the fuel nozzles deeper to see if the engine gets happy. Properly set-up SUs can work very well. Many times the nozzles stick and cause all sorts adjustment problems beause they aren't repeatable on the mixture after every adjustment operation. If the fuel delivery hoses are made from bulk hose and not the formed hoses the nozzles will get side loads that cause sticking and too-rich mixtures. If the engine is all set the adjustments to tune the SUs throughout the RPM ranges can be pretty straight forward.