deja

My take on all this. If you are building a daily driver I say go EFI without a doubt. Carbs were cool in their day but for today's driving and fuel economy I think EFI wins hands down. I am running a 4 bolt LT1 with a LT4 cam kit from Summit. Great daily driver with a little bit more HP than a stock LT1. If I had the extra money I would have gone LS series. But in reality it is more for the cool factor than anything else. At twice the price over the LT1 it just was not worth it for my needs. BTW the guy that programmed my ECM talked me out of building the 383 even though he had done it. He said it just wasn't worth the extra money over the 350 especially for a daily driver. When he finally blew up the 383 he relaced it with the same GM 4 bolt short block I have. We both got the GM short blocks from Powertrain Products To each their own, but I am perfectly happy with the LT1.

You can use the compressor but you need find another way to mount it. The LT1 accessory mount will put the compressor right on top of the steering rack, so that won't work. The Z28 controls are vacuum controlled so it might be tough to get that to work and the under dash unit is huge. The condenser is a little too big to fit in the Z but you might get it to work. All the lines on the Z28 are hard lines so they would be hard to get to fit. Any hydraulic shop can make the AC lines for you.I went with a Vintage Air Mini. Fits nice under the dash and is all electric. I got everything but the lines from Vintage, the AC unit, condenser, dryer, binary switch and a firewall mount for the lines. They even have compressors if you don't want to use the Z28 one.

Yeah, but that one is for the old school SBC that uses a belt driven water pump. LT1 water pump runs off the cam and not the belt.

Remove everything you can. If you don't you will regret it after you paint. Trying to mask it well enough so you don't get paint on a part or leave unpainted areas is very tough. Plus masking take a long time to do well, you could probably remove the parts just as fast.

Welcome to the dark side! Looks like you have a great plan and a good start for the conversion. One thing you want to look at is the tranny tunnel. I had to "beat" on the driver's side a bit to get the 4L60E to fit. You will have to eliminate all of the stock tranny mount.

I am certainly NOT an mechanical engineer but it seems to me that pushing the wheel too far from 0 offset would put strain on the bearings and axels. Of course I could be totally wrong on that. Then there is that "too much" and I have no idea what that would be.

It can be confusing and like others said there is no positive answer. You need to use one of those calculators we mentioned to see if you're in the ball park. From what I see you are not. 24 isn't going to cut it with either rim, too much backspace. Our cars require a max of 4.5" or you're going to hit the suspension. Your 9" rim will have a backspace of 6" and the 8.5" rim will be 5.7". You can add spacers or adapters to get you to 4.5" (1.5 for the 9" and 1.2" for the 8.5"). But then you are pushing the wheel out past 0 off set.

I had Safelight install a new winshield in my Z. They had the windshield and gasket in stock and used my chrome. Even with the chrome stip it leaked on the bottom corners anyway. They "fixed it" by pushing some adhesive/sealer between the gasket and the glass. Makes me wonder if they had just used that adhesive/sealer when they installed it I wouldn't need the strip at all.

They are 25. If you need a set I just happen to have them. $40 including shipping.

Evan Purple240zt is correct. Offet is usually given in mm, just convert it to inches if you need to. http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jspcan be used to see what thickess you need. Just type in you data with offset and it will tell what the the offset is in inches and what the backspace is.

You also might think about adding some support along the bottom back of the dam to the car frame. Those Xenon air dams have a tendency to bend at speed. I even added support on my fiberglass dam.

For my LT1/4L60E swap I used the one from my donor '94 Z28, cut down with a new yoke, the 1310 u-joint and balanced. Total cost was $152.

First rule for classifeid ads: 1. To post an ad in the "Parts For Sale section" or "Cars for Sale section", you must be a donating member of HybridZ.

I've have LED bulbs from http://www.superbrightleds.com/ in my tail lights for over three years with no problems.

Its called friction modifier. You can get it at any Chevy or Ford dealer. Its cheap. less than $10.

Latest Mary Kay car?????

Very cool video, awesome car too.

Your link does not work, should be http://www.simmonsautorepair.com/ you forgot the .com