deja

Not yet. I did get all the runs and orange peel sanded off and found a ton of low spots in my body work and am "fixing" all that. I called the 24/7 tech support for TCP and like you suggested they said that 2.5 tip was way too big. They did say I could lower the paint volume and that would probably work. They also said I had the air pressure adjusted wrong and I need to have 29 psi with the trigger pulled, I had it set at 29 psi with the gun off so it was around 10 psi when painting. He said that was causing the orange peel. Maybe I should have taken a painting class, LOL. He suggested a 1.8 nozzle for painting epoxy primer so I ordered one from them, better safe than sorry. So it will be a few days until I get the nozzle before I attempt to paint again.

Thanks, maybe the admins can move this from post #16 so we don't highjack this thread. The primer comes in a kit which includes the reducer. I am going to call TCP to see what the recommend for a gun. In the mean time I will start sanding, hopefully I won't have to take it all off again!!! I do have a few pinholes in the filler that I didn't notice but all in all the molding looks pretty good in spite of the ton of runs.

I bought the primer and the gun from TCP Global. The primer is Gray DTM Epoxy Prime/Sealer-Kit Kustom Color KUS KIT-KEP505-GL. Comes with harder and reducer. I did what the instructions said and mixed 2-1-1 primer-hardener-reducer. maybe too much reducer??? The gun is a TCP G660025 HVLP with a 2.5 Nozzle with a regulator which I have set to a max of 29 psi, the instructions on the gun said max inlet of 29 psi to maintain a max of 10 psi at the air cap. I did some testing with a different primer and thought it was setup right, apparently not It really put out a lot of paint in a hurry. There are several adjustments on the gun (air adjustment, pattern adjustment, paint adjustment). I was moving down the car much faster than I thought I would have to, the paint really flies out of this thing.

Well primer didn't go well this morning. I am totally new at painting and I obviously didn't have the gun set right and ended up with a very uneven coat witha lot of runs. I will sand it tomorrow and try again with a better setup on the gun.

Those are American Racing Shelby Shelby Torq Thrust M wheels They are 17x8 with a 4.5 offset. I need to add spacers to fll out the flares. Bigger tires would help too but I bought the tires before I decided to go with the flares, running 225/50.

I am in the process of doing just that. I decided I wanted a molded look rather than the usual look for the ZGs. I used Austin's method to initially mount the standard flares I got from MSA. I built up the inside top where they meet the fenders with tiger-glass to give more surface to add 3M 08116 panel adhesive. I still bolted them on using countersunk bolts and red lok-tite after applying the panel adhesive. I then filled in the bolt cutouts using several layers of fiberglass and molded the flares to the body with Rage Gold. I haven't started painting yet. I don't even have the primer on, hopefully tomorrow. When I get the primer laid down I will probably have more smoothing to do before paint. I did a lot of reshaping on both ends of the flares to get them to mold in. I am also molding in my side skirts to the fenders and the flares are molded to the skirts. I will post some picts after the primer goes on.

There is a lot of differences between the 93 and 94 LT1. MAF is only one. Sequential Port Injection introduced in 94. The 94 computer that can be reprogrammed using your laptop. I know the 93 EFI connectrs are not going to hook up right and I doubt the 93 ECU will run the Sequential Port Injection correctly. If I were you I would get the proper harness and get the benefits of the 94 ECU and the MAF.

Thanks, its close but it looks like it would clear just fine.

That looks tempting. What is the ground clearance on the arms? Since I installed the side skirts I only have 7 1/2".

Look at Summit Their shipping is "free" last time it was like $10 for handling If you live in Ohio or Georgia you have to pay sales tax too.

My brother was stationed at Beal AFB in the late 70's. At that time Beal was home for the U2 and the SR-71. I had the privilege to see both of these planes in the air. The SR-71 flew right over his on base housing, very low, while we were in the back yard, it was a very impressive sight.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7BSA05/50-1527 They also have it in carbon fiber.

I had side pipes on my 1970 AMX back in the day. They looked cool, but I pulled them after a few months. Too many burned legs from forgetting to step over them on the way out, the constant fumes and heat rolling in the open window and the noise got to be too much.

I just saw this option in Car Craft. http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspxIt sounds expensive but its another option.

You should have another temp sender near the thermostat. The one on the head will be more relevant but the one by the thermostat is normally connected to the temp gauge.

I didn't notice that. Try RockAuto

If you can't find one local, Black Dragon has them.

My 280Z reserviors fit fine.

Apparently that is what they are. In theory these came off my 77 280Z when we installed the 280ZX CVs using MM adapters a few years ago. Then again I sold the old U-joint half shafts, maybe I sold the companion flanges too. But if that's true I have no clue where these came from. I am so confused !!!

I have a set. PM sent.

I just noticed you said you wanted a set. I only have 2 of these.

I have these Weld Racing. I think they are 15X8 with 4.5" offset, but not positive about the width. They measure about 9.5" bead to bead. I will pull the tires. I would let them go for $150 without the tires plus shipping. They are unilug and will fit 4x114.3 or 4x4.5.