deja

You can't use the stock exhaust manifolds. Get some block hugger headers. LT1 use a different exhaust "D" port in the head than the old school Chevys so those center manifolds are not what you want either. JTR sells a Sanderson (Dat-402C DP)header that most of us are using. That C in the part number is for ceramic coating. It will make the header last longer and help transfer heat away from the engine bay too but it is another $100. Some have found headers on EBay that work too. Just make sure you get LT1 specific headers.

When I have issues like this I always ask "what's the last thing I did". You just installed a "new" master cylinder, that's what I would look at. You wouldn't be the first person to get a bad "new" mc especially if it is a rebuilt unit.

8mmx30mm socket bolts. I think the conversion for grade 8 in metric is 12.9. Use loctite on the nuts.

I had to cut out almost the entire mount that is welded to the car. This is especially true on the passenger side. Even then I still had to beat the tunnel a little to clear everything on the 4L60E.

Congrats. If your engine has been sitting for a while you might check the injectors. I had several totally plugged.

I don't think the oil pressure sensor will cause that because when I first installed my engine I had a bad sensor and the engine ran fine. What fuel pressure are you getting at the fuel rail? Did you disable the VATS in your ECM? For that MAP high code Check wiring to MAP sensor for shorts. Of course it could be the MAP itself.

Run them both, you can't get too much cooling for an automatic tranny. The TWF without a cooler is so much higher than with a cooler its shocking its not an OEM part.

Cool, two people saying I don't need them makes m feel confident about leaving them off. When I put the one back on without the clips it was just and hard to pull it back off as it was with the clips.

I think you might be right. I just tried one without the clips. It did seem to snap on pretty tight. Maybe add a little silicon at several places to be sure they stay at speed.

I pulled the drip rail chrome off in preparation for paint and notice the clips are pretty rusted. I would like to replace those or come up with another way to hold them on. Anyone know of a source for these clips?

I don't know Ernie well enough to ask him that. I have contacted Mike about powder coating some things, wonder if he could strip these with his setup.

The problem with home blasting is you need a big ass compressor to keep up with the blaster. I have a pretty good size one, 3.5 HP and a 60 gallon tank, but wonder if it would work.

Using a scotch pad would be tough because of the louvers, I don't want to break one of those. Maybe I can take it apart. Soda blasting would probably work if I knew someone that had one. Bumper stripper? A Google search came up with SEM 77713. I'll see if I can find some.

I am getting ready to paint my hood. Since it has been previously painted I am stripping it to cut dome on paint thickness. I would also like to strip the stock 280Z hood vents. This would be next to impossible to sand, so what paint striper would be safe to use on these plastic parts?

Sounds like a plan. Hopefully the headers will clear the strut towers and the steering shaft. I replaced every wire in my car when I did the LT1 swap. 30 year old wiring is just never ending source of problems. I used a 94 Z28 as a donor car and used its wiring in my Z. Not to hard once you figure out what you don't need and adjust everything for length.

The Mopar is not something you see done on these cars a lot. There are just more conversion parts available for the Chevy swap. Performance Chevy parts are also more available and many times cheaper. Things like headers are something you can buy off the shelf, that might not be the case for Mopars. Be sure to post some updates and picts. What size engine are you going with?

I can't help you on the Mopar tranny fitting. But I had to do a little beating on my 280Z to get the 4L60E in there. Its the same size as the 400R4. You will need to cut out the stock tranny mounting ears for sure.

Yes you can. Any driveshaft shop can do that, I took them a 3310 U-joint and the JTR flange. I used a Z28 drive shaft in my LT1/4L60E conversion. The shop also swapped out the old front yoke because it had a lot of miles on it.

I don't know what the stock measurement would be but with my ZGs its 12" from the inside edge of the rear flare to the cutout for the spring on the inner fender. Hope that helps. The clearance measurement trick is to remove the spring, mount the wheel with the tire and raise it up to see if it will clear. Not a fun thing to do but the only way to know for sure.

If you're building a drag car a straight axle is certainly a good option. But I don't have the ability to fabricate that and wouldn't want to give up the IRS anyway just to get 5 lug wheels.

I bit the bullet and got Modern Motorsports setups for both the front and rear, its only money, LOL. It was just easier that way and the fronts don't have the 3/4" offset like using Datsun parts do. The fronts also came with bearings and seals so the it really wasn't that bad money wise. The rears on the other hand are very expensive and do not come with bearings but they really nice. The fender vents are 'Cuda vents.

I still have some block sanding to do and of course paint, if I ever pick a color. But here is the car on the ground with the molded flares and side skirts. Please excuse the poor picture quality, no clue what happened

Pretty cool. I rememeber 1970, in fact I probably had that issue of R/T, damn I'm old, A friend of mine bought a red new 240Z in 1970 and I was blown away. It was so much nicer than everything else Japan was improting at that time. BTW the first pict is showing up fine for me.

I seem to remmeber there was an extra bolt too. Have you removed #3 in this pict?

I am running a 4L60E in my 77 280Z. I had to cut the stock tranny mounting ears completely out and beat on the upper area on the passenger side a bit to clear the dip stick (stock 4L60E dip stick will NOT fit I am using a Lokar).