MONGO510

Is $100 for a 200R4 a good deal? What are they worth in stock condition? (Chevrolet application) (I am financing my swap by wheeling and dealing. Thought I could make a few on this. What do you think?)

Nice work Aren!

Thanks guys!!

This clutch came with the T-56 that I bought. It is 11-5/8 diameterThe disc is very heavily sprung. The P.P. is made by LUK and appears to be self adjusting for wear. I was told it is a Lingenfelter clutch. It looks to be an extreme duty unit. Here are some pics. Anyone seen one of these? Could i make it work with my Gen 1 engine? Thanks

Hey fella,s how do I shrink a photo to a size that I can post? I was hoping you guys could identify a clutch for me from a photo but the file size is larger than 19.5 kb. Thanks,

If you have that heim joint bolted to the side of your pedal, then you introduced a side load on the M/C piston. It needs to be a straight-on push with no angularity. The stock clevis should work just fine.

Check the float level. A sinking float was a very common problem with the hitachi carbs.

I used to run Sports Racers and from my experiance you will not have a prayer of ever competing against the converted formula or purpose built 2 seaters. Your wallet will be much better served if you buy a completed car and you will be racing much sooner, at a much lower cost.

Gray tint may indicate water in oil. If it has sat for a long period ,it may be condensation. If engine is fresh, possibly assembly lube.

Hey Grumpy, good info! I have used the air process scores of times and never had any problem. One trick is to place a socket over the valve and tap it with a hammer. Not to hard or the keepers may come off. Just hard enough to unseat the retainer. The spring will then easily compress and disassembly is easy. I will put the rope trick in my toolbox for future use! By the way, I can't for the life of me figure out how the first tool would be used. I have used the second type before as well as others.

It really depends on what slave you are going to use.

A swap would be nice but the shipping is a deal killer.

The early 260Z is not a 2+2. I am going to get rid of the 2+2 body and was wondering what to keep for spares.

Hey fella's, I just bought a 76 2+2 with an unfinished 350 swap. I was wondering if the hood, decklid, and glass will fit my Early 260. Thanks

I did a search for you and it looks like the minimum size for M/C is 7/8"

Thanks guys, yous the best!

What do you consider the maximum bore on a stock 400 block? minimum wall thickness?

When I was building my sunroom I managed to drive a 16 penny nail thru my foot with a nailgun and into the roof. It effectively nailed me to the building. Luckily I had a hammer within reach and could pull it out. DUH!

Sounds sweet!

The pistons are Forged .030 flat tops and are in as new condition.

Dang, someday I will learn that when ever I try to save a few bucks, I end up taking a bath. Well, I guess I ended up with a good crank, rods,forged pistons, 202 aluminum heads,Arp head and main studs,and a complete howards roller setup(cam,rollers,1.6 rockers,pushrods,springs and titanium retainers). If I buy a dart block should I transfer the ARP main studs to the new block or are the supplied bolts stronger?

How much work do you have to put into a dart or world block before it is ready for assembly? Also,this is to be a street motor . John

Well, I bought this engine on ebay and I already know where the weak point is in this block, as it was race prepped, made 10 passes, and cracked a cylinder wall. It is at .030 and has like new bores. It is a 509 block. I thought maybe I would have it sonic tested and sleeve the bad bore if the other bores checked out. It has a new rotating assembly and is setup as a 327/400 crank/block. Same basic long rod engine that Grumpyvette posted. What do you think? John

Hey fella's, I did a search and got nothing. What is the most desirable 400 block to use in a medium heat street engine?

Yeah you are probably right!