30 ounce

Thanks! That works!

Nearing completion of my LS1/T56 swap and I'm having problems locating a 92mm 90 degree elbow to fit my FAST 92 throttle body. They all list 4 inch elbows but I measure 4 3/8" outside diameter. Any suggestions?

Honestly you will have way more trouble dealing with tuning the triple Weber's than a big cam. I had Isky 490 lift 290 duration and it was totally fine for street use. I used a pair of bored out SU carbs and all my friends with triples said not to change to triples as mine ran so well and triples would just be a headache. I would highly recommend a well set up set of SU carbs for the street. As for the ignition I would go with one of these 123ignition datsun.

I had the same issue with my 3.0 liter but I had SU carbs. It would restart but it wasn't pretty. I went from dead head fuel system to return line then added heat shield with heat wrap and wrapped all the fuel lines. Every little thing helped but the return line was the biggest help.

Sounds like vapor lock to me. I wouldn't run the fuel dead headed, run a return line. It will keep the fuel cooler. Also anything you can do to shield the headers from the carbs will help too.

I had an issue with my MSD ignition box when I first wired it up. The trigger leads from the distributor aren't marked + or - and I had them hooked up backwards. If you are using those try switching the magnetic trigger leads around.

That sounds awesome! Beautiful job too!

Is that oil sender adapter something you bought or made? If purchased, where did you get it?

After losing a valve seat on my 3.0 liter L6 I decided to go with an LS1/T56 combo after seeing Austin Hoke's (Hoke Performance) beautiful LS2/T56 build and the mounts that he designed to do it. I really think he did a nice job designing these and the workmanship is top notch. There was a question about which mount to get with the low mount alternator and it turns out the standard mount works fine for the low mount F-body alternator. I had ordered the low mount bracket that he designed to install the LS2 out of the GTO and that mount screws into the alternator replacing the bracket on the back of the alternator. So if you are using the F-body LS1 get the standard mount.

Received my Hoke Performance mounts today. Very impressed! Definitely a no compromise way to install the LS1/T56.

Ummm, Wow!

I would definitely source a cam from Rebello...He has done a lot of research in this area and has some good low lash cams. I used Isky 490/290 cam and had no problem. I also ordered it directly from Ron Iskenderian and he also helped with the best compression ratio vs gas vs altitude recommendation. Cam, compression, flow rate of head are all related so make sure and get these right. And don't be afraid to go a bit bigger than you might think...my idle was a bit lumpy but it set you back in the seat after 3500 rpm.

Here's a little info: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100151-n42-vs-f54-blocks-for-performance-build/ There was a picture on the inter webs of a cutaway of both the N42 and F54 blocks. The N42 is siamesed on all cylinders and the F54 is only on 1-2,3-4,5-6. And they have cooling passages in them too.

I used an F54 when I built this originally...I would use an N42 if I were to do it again. They have more meat around the cylinder...F54 works, just have it sonic tested first. I would go with the P90 head and get it shaved to get the compression up to at least 10:1. All the power is in the head...find someone who knows what they are doing with these heads and you will have one heck of a fun motor.

Sounds like a dying fuel pump.

On wiring specialties website it says that their harness works with the stock gauges...is that correct? That by itself would make it worthwhile for me.

You guys are talking about iron blocks, right? I couldn't find an aluminum block for anywhere near that price.

Tried to message you but it wouldn't work. I'll call you in the morning.

Mine is a 12/74.

I have a '74 distributor in excellent shape that was rebuilt recently. Don't know if it will work for you but here's a pic:

I'm doing Hoke's mounts with mine!...They just look right, more substantial considering what I plan on doing with my Z!

Actually I enlarged that picture and you can see the metal between 1-2,3-4,5-6.

I don't think this is an F54 block as it doesn't have the siamesed cylinders between 1-2,3-4,5-6.

Your engine was very similar to mine. My machine shop and engine builder insisted on balancing the entire rotating assembly together; harmonic balancer, crank, rods, pistons, flywheel (which they lightened) and clutch even though it was purchased from Rebello Racing. Everything was marked so we could assemble it correctly. We used ARP bolts and studs everywhere. I dyno'd it before taking it to the track. My cam was probably a lot milder than yours as my peak power was at 6500 rpm. I set my rev limiter to 7500 rpm (Rebello says 8k was ok) but I don't see any reason to rev that far past peak hp. That being said I find that on the track I've been on the rev limiter a few times unexpectedly. No harm though. I've got probably 25 track days and 5k miles of runs through the mountains. One thing I've always worried about was oil starvation through those long sweeping corners but so far I've been lucky. Might still add an Accusump just to sleep better. Sorry to hear about your engine. Don't cut any corners on the 3.3 and it should be badass! Can't wait to see this come together.

That really sucks about your engine! It's pretty much the same as mine. Let me know what you find out.