383 240z

The title says it all, can anybody walk me thru this? I'm tring to post it to the msefi fourum but I cant figure out how to do this. Keith

Ok I put the wheel encoders back to the pre-sets (defaults?) I now have rpm input on the stim. when I turn it all te way up it goes to aprox. 9100 rpm. I had spent some time with a friend (who knows more about this than me) do some trouble shooting. His theroy is, the signal is getting into the processor but the output (I forget what line I was tapped into) is not a clean digital wave form. what I was getting on my meter is a solid 5V signal, not an ON/OFF signal. So he was thinking that the tunable pots are where I need to focus. I suspect he will be dragging his O-Scope over this Sat. for further diag. Keith

Last night I was working on this, I remembered Matt's question about the wheel decoder, In my sleep deprived mind I thought Trigger wheel (kinda close??) and I changed the values, I set Trigger wheel teeth to 6 (it is a six cylinder) missing teeth 0 (they are all there) Skip teeth 0 (count them all why not) Delay teeth (I'd like all the rpm right now!!) and I get no responce on the stim, I'm going to change them back now. Keith

I'm not sure but I'm sure it was over 5K. I can check later tonight. Keith

I just left the shop I double checked the rpm input on the stim, it is a good solid signal, I can go from 0 rpm, slowly input a >300 rpm crank signal, and a full running signal. I'm not sure if I mentioned it but I also put mt DVOM on the AC scale and got a signal when I crank the engine, I probed the DB-37 connector itself to check all the wiring from the VR to the MS. Keith

Sorry about that Yes it works great on the stim V2.2 As to the 2nd part of your reply what is a wheel decoder? I have a VR mounted inside my dizzy. I removed the rest of the internals and locked out the vac advance. so the only thing that can change the spark timing is me, using the MT of course. Keith

OK Here goes I'm using a V-3 board and MT version 2.6, Im tring to get the VR signal to be "seen" by MS. I have the VR wired to pin 24 (the signal line of a shelied cable I got from DIY-Autotune) and pins 6&7 (the sheild of same cable). I've tried swaping the leads on the VR with no change. I've tested the VR with my DVOM and I'm getting a signal thru the harness and up to the DB-37 on the MS. I've checked that the pots R-56 and R-52 are turned fully CCW as per build step 51 g. Also from step 52, I have the jumpers VRIN to the TACHSELECT and TSEL to the VROUT. I have the settings in MT set to going high inverted. I'm pulling my hair out here!!! I been fighting with this for a week now!! Keith

On Mythbusters I see a white S-30 quite a bit. I think it belonged to Scottie, I have not seen it since she left. After the last episode I have anew favorite slogan from the show: "If I had any diginety left that would have been embarassing!!"

I used one for a 1991 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L. It is EFI rated 3/8" inlet 5/16 outlet. set up for rubber hoses. it is about$10 at the parts store. It also packages nice, it is about 2.5" wide and abou 4.5" long. Keith

ZEEBOOST, did you say that right? Rage is back together? Keith

Man after reading some of these I gotta hit limewire for somemore tunes. Keith

George Thorogood and the Delaware Destroyers. Ride on

With the ultra diverse group we have on here, this should cross a more than a couple genra's of music. mine are: Black Sunshine- Zombie Black Betty-Spiderbait (I know it is a Ram Jam song but I like this version better it's on you tube if you want to compare) Keith

Live Organ Transplants!!!

Is this a cheese shop?? my fav. he's not dead just resting!!

a little puncuation would help!!! It almost sounds like you have a decent sized vac leak. Keith

older 'vettes with the factory side pipes, Here in Pa, they have to exit behind the pass. compartment, for trucks that only means the cab. Keith

WOW you guys REALLY need to get a real job!!! Still funny though. Keith

I LOVE IT!!! with 35" tires and 3:31 it has power to spare, the build is a 91 HO head and a 96 block 258 rods and crank, I'm running a 2003 intake and stock TB, megasquirt V-3 handles the fuel and spark, with 23 lb @45psi injectors. I'm putting 4:56 gears in it now and it should damn near idle over the rocks in 4 lo. Keith

I got a few good deals by being friendly with the local machine shops, I got a set of Eagle heads for what was owed on them. The previous owner dropped them off for some machine work, and over a year later never came to pick them up, his bill was $385. that is what the owner sold them to me for!! I also lucked out when I was looking for parts for my stroker in my Jeep. I needed a 258 crank and rods, he had a client who wanted to go to a 360 but needed to sell his 258 first, he gave him my number, and we worked out a deal. It's all about the networking!! Keith

I've got 3 of those cheap stands, they are just that cheap, not bad just cheap, one is holding up a 4.2L jeep engine, all cast iron inline 6 and heavy as heck. works fine, If you do get the HF one, PLEASE throw away the bolts that come with it for mounting the arms to the head and the engine to the arms. and get QUALITY FASTENERS. I have had these cheap ungraded bolts break!!! One thing i always do with inline engines is when I'm not working on it I run a chain up to a rafter in my shop from the unsupported end (fan end) that way if the stand or mounting bolts bend or shear, your engine will not hit the floor. Keith

I always thought z purists were a pain, until I pulled the rotory out of my 7 for a v-8. I was dmn near thrown out of the local club!!! Keith

Don't worry about it sparks, I needed to figure out how to post pics anyway. I'm glad I could help ya out!!. Keith

I guess that would have worked:biggrin: But like I said I got it from a friend, I really like the extra stabilisers you welded into place to support the main column, I posted these after Sparks280z Asked to borrow a rotator. Keith

I got this from a good friend of mine when I started my Z project. He used it on his and it worked great. I had my Z on it for over a year, and I loved it, she is going back on for the body work after I get the rest of the Fab work finished. First you will need 2 engine stands these are the 4 wheel type I used cheap ones from Harbor Freight. They were cut and had 8" spliced into them for the height needed. YOU CAN NOT FLIP THE CHASSIS UPSIDE DOWN WITH THIS!! just roll it from pan facing left to flat to pan facing right, it is way to heavy to pull up from an inverted position. I know that I should have used a boxed steel tube with crush spacers, instead of the 2x4 that I used. But hind sight is always 20/20 right? To load the chassis I stripped it down until just the front x-member was left, lifted it with my engine crane, and slipped the front adapter in the front stand. I then stripped the rear suspension and wrapped a LARGE tie down strap (a 10000 Lb) around the rear wheel well. Again lifted it with the crane and slipped the head in the rear stand. The front attached to the stock bumper mounts, and the rear also went to the bumper mounts with spacers holding the un-milled flange off the body, I could of used abox tube in the rear as well but I had that heavy angle and a mill so that is what I used. Keith This is the rear adapter[/img][/img][/img]This is the front adapter