383 240z

Im thinking that all 1970-78 doors interchange as long as they are Coupes, am I correct in my thoughts, I have a buddy in Colorado who will bring me home a rust free set if he can find them, but I just want to make sure our efforta are not in vain. Thanks Keith

Industry Pennsylvania About 20 miles north of Pittsburgh

I was wondering what a good door goes for? I'm needing a set for my 72 Coupe. Keith

I have 8 of them in my shop, I LOVE them heavy with a good wide base. they stand high enough off the floor that my fat butt can get under a lowered sports car with them in the full up position. Keith

And then they told two friends and they told two friends!!! I found it right after I bought my first s-30, I was searching for Z car clubs in my area, I found a 100 point resto group, who was appalled that I wanted to modify the car, and I was refered to as a hybrider! I of course had no Idea what they were talking about. I continued on with that car, My plan was just to get it running and drivable for cheap, then mod it as time and $$ allowed. My other car was a blown rx-7 street port, I got the goofy idea to V-8 it. Some buddies of mine in RX-7 club pointed me to Torquecentral.com, I got to talking to some guys on it, During the swap sombody asked what other projects we had and I posted about my 240Z and I got a PM to check this place out. Funny thing is I finished and raced and sold the RX-7 and my Z is still waiting to move under her own power!! Keith

The biggest obstical I had to overcome was getting off my fat A$$ and doing something. I researched the project to death, and got many of the needed parts aquired, but never was able to find the time to really work. I found a real cool guy here local to me who has a v-8 Z. and we set up a schedual, every wed after work we would plug away on our z's one week mine one week his. I got a TREMENDIOUS amount of work done that way. Now that winter has started to set in the Z's are mostly back in their cacoons, but I do have a heated space that I can work on the smaller projects, like rebuilding my heater box, and dash. Michael- To alay your fears of killing your engine by adjusting your floats, Just DO IT, the worst that will happen is you will set them to low and it wont run, or you will set them to high and it will leak, but in the end you will learn how to do it, and I'm sure their are SEVERAL people here that will walk you thru it step by step. I have the same sort of fears now that I am a bit older and some say wiser. I still cross my fingers after changing a set of plugs, it took me three days to work up the nerve to turn the key after my first Megasquirt install, have some faith in yourself man!! Keith

I have a TPI sitting on top of an older SBC, using a short water pump, and V-belt pulleys does any body know of a way to mount my Alt.? I brackets that put it on the pass. side but they need a mount on the intake, no provision for that on the TPI stuff. any thoughts or pic's would be helpful, this and a fuel pump and I can start the car for the first time in 7 years!!! Keith

OK here is set up. Fuel cell -8 feed line, TPI intake. MAX HP (I'm allowing for upgrades) is 500hp the major restriction is the -6 fitting on the stock fuel rail (both feed and return) In the end my 383 will be the engine with a larger EFI system (lingenfelter short runner system) but right now I just want to get this thing running so I put a borrowed 350 with a ZZ4 cam and my stock 350 TPI in. I'm needing an in line pump that I can fit the -8 lines to I can make the inlet side of the pump work with rubber hose if I change the fitting on the fuel cell. any ideas on what I can use that dont require I take out a 2nd on the house? Keith

I just tried to access the tech section, they only allow customers to view it. Thanks for the tip anyway. Keith

I had to chime in her Grumpy, but at this hour of the morning I find your comment on the oil leak caused by the blocks failure to stop the rods exit trajectory VERY amusing, I just woke the wife with my laughter. Gotta go!! Keith

Sparks could you post a pic of your flairs? I'm thinking I might be looking for somthing along that line? Or a website I could see them at? Keith

I have the valving on my front shocks a little stiffer to keep it from nose diving under hard braking, and steep down hill decents. I have reinforced the firewall a while ago, as Jeeps are known for thin flexy firewalls. It is 32* in the shop now so I'm not working out there today. I'll let you know what I find when I get back on that project this weekend. Keith

I'm wondering why you said abnormal? It is a factory pedal booster setup. I'll re-measure today but I believe from the piviot point to the hook up for the master is around 4" then from the master hook up to the center of the pedal is another 8". Does this not give me a 2:1 ratio? Math never really was my strong suit. I'm planning on pulling it in the shop this week and removing the factory prop/meteriing valve and seeing what the 1" master does. Thanks for all you help so far. Keith

I've been in contact with wilwood tech on this and have been getting conflicting answers, some say my 1" master is fine, others want me to buy their 1 1/8" master. I was thinking that the front calipers in their stock form were fed by a 1 1/8" master, so I should use that and an adj. prop. valve to cut down the rear. This is for my off-road Jeep, I'm not to worried about pedal input psi as much as I am with travel. I'll be removing the stock propvalv this week, do you think I should just "T" the front calipers and put the adj. prop valve on the rears? Keith

I was wondering if I could have some of the local talent on here help me, off forum with a problem I'm having with another rig I'm building. What it boils down to is master cyl sizing. Here are the specs. 4 wheel discs 1 piston at each caliper. front pistons are 2.75" rears are 2.50" -3 flexlines 3/16" hard lines 9" booster 2:1 pedal ratio. Any insight anybody can lend will be of great help. Keith

I'm sorry to say that I know some off those jacks. They really put my hometown in a bad light. A good bit of the custom fab work was done at a buddy of mine shop. http://www.1st-try.com The forum that those guys haunt is http://www.pittspeed.com a local bunch of racers some good some bad. The car was pretty cobbled together other than the frame and chassis work. I also agree that Nate (who is a good driver) and the other guy have VERY little tech experiance. But I do have to give those guys credit for one thing. It takes major stones to put your car on the line like that. On a side note, when team hybrid lost, how was the people involved able to auction off parts of the car and drivetrain?? Please PM me if you know. Keith

I have the HF helmet as well. It works real well and when placed side by each with the one I bought from my MAC dealer you can't tell the difference. The only draw back I have found is it does not always switch when I'm woring on a tube car, as there is almost always a tube in the way of the sensor, I have the older style with the replacable batts. It even has a lowbattery warning in it. Keith

I know that these are low end tools but this is what I can afford. I've been looking for a decent used "real" one for about 2 yrs now. All I can find is 440V 3 PH units that I can't move or power up. So I'm looking at this little one from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=33686&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName= and this one from ACCURA. http://cgi.ebay.com/ACCURA-2-HP-MILLING-DRILLING-MACHINE-W-STAND-MORE_W0QQitemZ270040630663QQihZ017QQcategoryZ92150QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270040630663 I have been able to look at the ACCURA one up close (I live near the Seller) It is nicer that the HF one and comes with more extras, and has a 220V motor. Of course it also costs more. I know these are not the first choice of most fab shops but I do NEED one of them for the MANY small cutom parts I need to make for my various project cars and experimetal ideas I have. So I guess I'm asking if I should spend the few hundred more on the better machine or are they both junk and will wear out in the next 2 years so buy the cheap one? Keith

The local machine shop here, taps 3 small holes around the edge of the freeze plugs. then screws 3 small button head bolt into them providing a mechanical way of locking the plug in place. I would first figure out why you are popping plugs, but this is an option for you. Keith

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/DC/50-2040 It is the full dash cover for 240Z's. Mine was ruined by fire while removed from the car, (I did not do it I swear) Mine has a large burn mark right between the speedo and the tach. I was just wondering how these look after being installed. Also what difficulities were there during the install. Keith

Damn, now there is somthing else I need to do, at least the dash is allready out getting new gauges and a re-wire. Thanks for the pics very nice job, and just to reiderate, what civic motor was that? Keith

I have a 35x30 with no insulation, It has a small room built inside of it that is insulated the room is 8x30. I have a wood burner in there, I bought the burner from Tractor Supply for $150 it works real nice, I use that area as my clean area for building engines and trans. with 2 large workbenches I'm not cramped at all just cant bring the whole car inside. So I build sub-assemblies then install them in the cold shop, I'm looking for a suitable propane heater for the main shop after the renovations are done, new lighting and insulated walls. Keith

You should have a MIN of .125" between you flex plate mounting surface and the pads on the TC. Anyless than this you WILL damage your tranny. Also please remember to lube your snout on the TC and the hub that rides in the crank, and be sure to clean out the hub on the crank, old dried grease will harden in there and cause your TC to run of center and can cause a weird hard to track vibration at least, or damage your tc or crankshaft and maybe worse. Keith

Lee do you have a site for you MX5? I bought my wife one a month ago, 1991 model with posi. and just last night she was lamenting that it needed a few extra ponies to make some of the long uphills we have near here that she likes to enjoy "spirited driving" on. A small turbo should do the trick for her, but would love to show her what is possiable. She LOVED driving my 2nd gen RX-7 with the 355/700R4. Keith

I would be running the stocker, But I havn't seen that rad in about 5 yrs. This project has been running on the back burner for at least that long. I have a VERY good suspension, and braking system installed, Most of the new wiring is in. I still need to hard mount the Dana 44M and the fuel cell. Megasquirt in built and tested, the TPI is all ready to go. I need to plumb the fuel and cooling system, and fire it!! Then make the body as pretty as the mechanicals. Keith