2003z

wow, how did you get all that stuff out???

very nice!

yes, you are correct, but datsun (and most early japanese manufacturers) actually reversed them from the rest of the world. I just put it back

WHAT: Adding relays to headlight wiring circuit. ADVANTAGE: Brighter light and safer. With full current coming off the alternator, your sealed beam headlights can be as bright as any new car (xenon excluded, but this will make a great foundation for a xenon upgrade) As stock, the entire headlight current runs through the fusebox, headlight switch, turnlight switch and speedometer high beam indicator. This draws a lot of current and can cause melt down if there is a problem. DISADVANTAGE: Cuts stock harness, if you care. HOW: I did this to my last Z, although with a somewhat more complicated logic involving 3 relays. Refined it with the current Z. I converted my headlights today. Its very simple without a kit. You need a relay holder, 2 relays, 2 fuses, and some wire. With the stock setup, the Red wire powers the right headlight, the Red/Yellow powers the left. The Red/White is the ground for high beams and the Red/Black is the ground for low beams. With my system, the R powers the low beams and the RY powers the highbeams. I mounted the relay holder on the fender well, just forward of the voltage regulator. First unwrap the wiring harness in the vicinity of the VR. Cut the Red, Red/Yellow, Red/White and Red/Black wires. Wire as follows: 1st relay 86- R from cockpit 85- RB from cockpit 30- to alternator (inline fuse here) 87- RB to headlight 2nd relay 86- RY from cockpit 85- RW from cockpit 30- to alternator (inline fuse here) 87- RW to headlight Take the R and RY from headlight, splice and ground to chassis. Pure voltage straight from alternator and much brighter than stock, without the hassles of the harness.

I assume you are military? How much will it cost to ship it back since they only pay for 1 POV? Or would you do a shipment of opportunity on a navy ship? Either way, if you can get it for under 10k, I would go for it. Those cars are only going up in value.

Mine are mounted but not on the car yet. My brake swap has kind of stalled due to lack of time, and when I have time, I don't feel like working on it.

yea, definitely be patient and get what you really want. I'm sure the factory can spit out more than 60 wheels/day, so it shouldn't be that long.

Great read, Oct 2005 issue.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-Z06-LS6-Engine-405-HP-W-T56-6Sp-Acc-243-Heads_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ7992328433QQrdZ1 just thought someone might be interested.

Have you thought of the possibility of contamination in your brake lines. The inner workings of the brakes are very simple, there isn't much that could go wrong inside, besides clogging the fluid holes (which are fairly small) or maybe rusting shut, but there is a rubber seal between the piston and piston wall.

I was going to get the A4s also, but I got a great deal on a pair of cloth 350z seats instead. Still have to adapt them though, but side by side to an original 240 seat, they are almost identical in dimensions.

Nice! can't wait to finish mine up. Its been on jackstands for 2 months now, just plugging along here and there. Got my new master cylinder delivered yesterday though, just waiting on brake lines now, and to bolt the rears on and convert the mc, of course.

I'm #21. Reverse EL black with white, euro style, fairly plain, but aside from the 350z seats, rollbar and harness, I want the interior to look fairly stock.

There are 19 orders now. If its still available in the morning when I get home from Chile, I will be the 20th. I would order now, but I don't know what speedo I have, so I need to see the car before finalizing my order.

is there a direct link to sign up? or do you just email them?

It also makes sense for autocross and track work. The lowend pull is awesome. I've installed the stillen M62 on my 350Z and have installed a Vortech kit on my friends 350Z. While his output with the centrifugal is 420hp and mine is only 340, the driving characteristics are totally different, and I wouldn't trade mine for his any day. I get a pull as soon as I hit the gas, that pretty much stays flat til redline, his starts of with less punch, but just continually builds boost to redline. To me, mine feels faster, even though his might be faster.

that is so frickin hot! Wish I could make the convention to check it out myself.

I've got the scalloped hubs also, but since the spacer I have is for this setup, I'm going to run wheel spacers and stick the wheels out a little farther, rather than buy a new set of brake spacers for behind the hub.

Here is the setup that I have. Any idea what the hubs are from? As I just got my rewinds and test fit them, I can say they definitely do not fit without spacers on my setup. They need at minimum, just under 1/4" of spacer.

I think they only make them in a 0 and a +40, or whatever a honda needs, unfortunately.

yea, its a manual. Looking at it, I could see there isn't much room at all. I ordered a new MC and will start with that.

I ordered 15 +0, but my toyota spacer setup won't fit them without rubbing the caliper. I'm going to be running a 1" spacer. However, My spacer between the hub and the rotor is about 1/4", and which hubs I have, I don't know. If you have the more common 1/2" spacer with the thinner scalloped 240Z hubs, you should fit with no problem. 15x7 +0