2003z

I did try to turn the engine manually with the main pulley bolt and couldn't move it.

see my other post, things not going too well at the moment

I finally got my engine all back together and in the car and got to the point of starting it. It cranked for about 5-10 seconds then stopped. I thought it was the battery, but I've had it on a charger for over an hour and still nothing. I can see the engine move a little when the starter teeth engage the flywheel, so the starter is def. moving. Is it possible for the engine to sieze with only turning that long? Is there a way to check if its siezed without pulling it and taking it apart? What should I do next? thanks in advance

check out the classifieds on www.my350z.com Don't know if any are on there, but you'll probably find a better deal there.

I think I got them about a year ago when they did the initial run. I wanted stock looking, but lighted dials. Just got them put in the car and working today. I do need to straighten out the speedo though, and I might need to paint the needles with glow in the dark paint, although you can see them in the actual car. I took all the stock lights out.

Base, Enthusiast and Track and Performance. Touring was the only one with electric/leather. Grand Touring now too.

With 3 spacers, they are about the same as stock seats, maybe just a little lower. I paid $350 for my pair. I guess it depends on how bad the person wants to sell them.

thats why I like the non-power track seats better! I drilled a couple holes in the stock sliders and put a bolt and nut through to make them immobile, then I cut off the handle. Mounted angled bar stock across the stock sliders perpendicular Cut the legs off of the Z seats Mounted the Z seats sliders onto the bar stock. The front drivers seat is height adjustable in the front part, so I needed something to hold the left and right sides together. I used a heavy cable and turnbuckle to tighten since I don't have a welder or fancy stuff like that.

I used both. I drilled and bolted the 240z rails so they are unmoveable and then used cross bars to attach them to the 350z seat rails. On the 350 rails, I had to cut off the legs, but other than that, it was pretty basic.

Arizona Z car intake and Holley 390. I finally got it back in the car today!!!!!! 280 5spd, Fidanza flywheel, Nissan Motorsports domed pistons, MSA stage 2 cam and KTM's old Crane XR700. Still have to: Install the clutch slave cylinder Re-install the dash (Prev. Owner. cut the heater hoses when the core started leaking, I fixed that) Wire up the XR-700 and coil Plumb the fuel and PCV lines, and I think its about done! (then I have to recoat the valve cover, every thing else if fine from the drop.)

glad you like them! I actually got my engine back in today myself! Have to reinstall the dash and a couple other things, then hopefully fire it up!

the good thing about the 350z seats is they are a lot lower. I'm short, but I had to use 3 of the spacers that come with the stock seats to get the Z seats up to a decent height. My car came with a plastic summit racing seat, and my helmet hit the roof. With 3 spacers I've still got over an inch of headroom with the helmet on. THe 350 seat rails sit above the seat bottom.

although it would be odd if only one is leaking, possibly the seat angle of the bleeder is different from that of the caliper. I would just go back to your stock bleeders if it was me.

yes, they replace the original bleed screws, but you will still need someone to watch to make sure all the air bubbles are out of the lines. There is no way to pump the brakes and watch the fluid leave by yourself. the speedbleeders just have a one way check valve in them that prohibits air from entering the system through the bleeders.

lookin' good Glenn!

so when are you going to share it with everyone?????

I've seen pictures and it will definitely be a cool surprise!!!! Jason did an awesome job!

Good to know it survived! Mine should be fine then.

just going to redo the valve cover. everything else is pretty much not going to be visible anyways.

the header took the brunt of the fall, but it deflected but didn't bend permanently, I think. Its about 1/4" from the block at the bottom, and it took a chip out of the powdercoat on the block, but that and a couple of scratches in the ceramic coat plus the valve cover seem to be the only damage. At least the carb and intake didn't hit anything, nor the distributor. It was all pretty too!

hydraulic lifters on the A model.

Aside from a chip on the valve cover, and scrapes on the oil pan, it doesn't look like I hurt anything. Apparently, when I lowered the legs on the cherry picker, I accidentally put on of the down lock pins back in the uplock hole on accident. Don't know how I had a brain fart like that. Hooked up the engine, had it lightly supported and unbolted the engine stand and WHAMMO, the whole thing crashed over on its side.

manual 350z seats, although another member emailed me for info and I think he wound up putting in power 350z seats in his.

and the Nismo unit is available through dealerships. I was going to use the .6mm nismo headgasket, to which Nissan Motorsports said I needed that unit with, and both were available 2 months ago. I wound up buying a 1mm headgasket from a member here instead.

also check to see that the brakes are on the correct side of the car. It sounds simple, but is a fairly common problem when removing and reinstalling calipers. The bleed screw should be above the fluid line going into the caliper. If the calipers are on the wrong side, it will be below the fluid line and impossible to bleed the calipers completely.