Z-Gad

Square exhaust ports... All the L-series intake ports are round.

The 88-89 turbo (maybe 87 as well) have the same internals as the Z32 tranny and they are stronger than the earlier Z31 trannies. It shold live find behind a 500 rwhp motor. Contact Mike at Central Florida Turbo for more info about his car. Contact info can be found here... http://www.centralfloridaturbo.com/

Bummer Austin. I am sorry to see the damage. It does look like detonation. The #6 cylinder runs the hottest (furthest from the water pump) and then the #5 is second. As far as the bearings, well, I am not surprised to see the wear if they have been used on more than one motor.

The car weighs 2750 w/ me in it. The 2JZ is a pretty heavy motor and the cage, etc add a lot of weight. Horsepower calculators based on my timeslip indicate 696 whp. Actual peak horsepower is surely slightly higher, but I haven't had the car on the dyno to find out. Anyway, My buddy down here in Orlando is making dyno proven 650+ rwhp on his VG30et. His car is in one of the old SportZ magazine issues. He just has just been having troubles with breaking trannies. Another problem guys have had running a stick shift or transbrake in the Z31, is that they break stub axles. The Z31 stubs are surprisingly weaker than the s30 stub axles. Don't forget the high 7 second Z31 from Puerto Rico that ran a VG30et. Although it is a pure race car, I saw it in person a few years ago in Gainesville. It was impressive.

Will the stock R200 mustache bar still flex even if it is mounted with aluminum inserts?

Nothing wrong with the VG30et motor... You can make 450rwhp all day long without stressing the engine, with supporting mods...(injectors, turbo, fuel pump, and good engine management) Just add good rods and pistons, and 500 is a walk in the park. The beauty of turbo motors is that they can be like mom's grocery getter until you throw 20+ psi of boost at it, and then it becomes a Dr Jekyl / Mr hyde kind of thing...

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I am sure it will be worth the wait when you get to mash the pedal the first time Mike

It looks amazing Cyrus!! Thanks for the update!!

I can't!!

I suppose it would depend on the type of racing he is talking about... straight line or curves...

Keys of my 77 turbo used to fly out of the ignition on a hard launch and end up in my lap... Now the old Datsun horn button ends up in the hatch of the car in my 71 on a hard launch...

transbrake or foot brake? Footbraking allows you to preload the drivetrain (you probably already know that) and the R200 + CV's should be fine. It is the shock of a transbrake on the rear end that might damage stuff.

I am considering it Ken. I spoke with my fabricator (Mark at Mazworx) today and that was an option. I just figured that if I was going to solid mount a differential, I only want to do it one time, so it is as good a time as any to install the R230. Besides, I have a quality LOCAL buyer for my 3.36 R200 LSD, Z31 turbo CV's and adapters.

Final update... I replaced the strut tower assembly and the wheel sits true again. What an ordeal... The last test-n-tune is Friday night, so I have Wednesday and Friday to have a little more fun before parking the car.

I am not saying that the mount didn't have anything to do with it, but a dedicated track car sees a lot more body roll and flexing than a street car will. Parts will fatigue quicker, whether that be a diff crossmember, brakes, transmissions, stub axles, etc. Under those extreme conditions, that cannot be denied.

Very interesting findings!! Thank you for following up no this thread. I would think that over several seasons a track car would stress/wear other parts quicker as well due to the side loads of lateral G's. I wouldn't be surprised if much of the spider cracking on the bar was due to the body flexing ...

More good news... I installed a new a-arm, and the tow in is a little better, but still there. The strut tower assembly appears to have been bent as well. I have another strut assembly to try, and if this doesn't fix the wheel angle, I will have to assume that the frame has been tweeked.

Clint- are you going to be running a transbrake? either way, your 60's will drop dramaticly with the auto.

R200 = good (as long as you have the good corresponding parts like JNJ said ... 300zx turbo CV's and companion flanges from http://www.modern-motorsports.com )

Da** driveshaft shop put the wrong flange on when they rebuilt the driveshaft!! I'm gonna have to wait until next week to test. Justin - 60' - 1.364 330 - 3.794 mike

Just an update... I apparently twisted the driver's side a-arm as well. After reassembling the rear end and rear suspension, I found that the driver's side rear wheel is cocked inward toward he front of the car something terrible. I can see the bend in the a-arm between the front and rear mounts on the a-arm... I'm going to be up late tonight trying to get another a-arm installed and all back together for test-n-tune Saturday night... wish me luck

I still don't see them being the issue here, I mean, if the front member had been reinforced, would it have happened at all?

I have run a solid diff mount and urethane bushings on the mustache bar on all 4 of my Z cars over the last 10 years without any issues until now. Two of 240z's were n/a, my 400 hp 77 280z turbo 5-speed, and currently the 700+ rwhp 2JZGTE 240z and even now, the solid mount and urethane bushings were not the issue (as they are still intact), it was a lack of reinforcement of the stock front support. I understand that some have had issues, but alas I have not.

Yes, front was solid and rear bar had urethane mounts.