MatMan

He he eh...you are probably right. I can send you a pic or two... BTW, your pics didn't come through.

Want to trade straight up - your ash tray for my center console as a guinea pig?

I get mine from http://carfiche.com/manuals020/cars/ But, like you said, not much domestic stuff.

I would like to throw my hat into this ring. Last year I bought a guy named Dan's 20 year collection of original used S30 parts. I have no intention on keeping all these parts in my barn, and I like to help fellow members keep their treasured vehicles on the road. Please send a PM my way and I will see if I have what you need.

Well, I just learned something for my car! Thanks!!!

Are you sure about this? Why would you run a vacuum line to the float bowl vents?

PayPal sent, Mike! What's the running total?

The struts are a 510 upgrade, maybe you can part the thing out. I have had more than a couple people asking what shape my ZX steering rack is in.

Sorry for taking so long.... John, Thanks! That's what I was looking for. Jon, I will look into Pac. Ind. And, no, I wasn't going to actually dispose of bulk liquids down that drain. A grease trap isn't required by code, I just don't want that drain connected to the septic without catching anything that may "possibly" be hosed down the drain. I have read more than a few times on this site that a motor transplant deposits a bunch of stuff on the garage floor, just taking a pro-active approach. MONGO510. I have been debating digging a hole and forming a trap for concrete, but the baffles and interior vents offer a level of complexity that I am unsure about trying to accomplish with cement. Thanks for your comments!

I am in the design stage of converting an old (turn of the LAST century) barn into a workshop, and have a question for the Community: I want to install a concrete slab floor, with a grate-and-gutter drain running down the center piped into a grease trap with the rough dimensions of 22"X30"X25". I was wondering if the price of sheet steel (1/8") for fabbing this box with a hinged top (for clean-out) and lined with POR-15 (to protect against any chemical spills) would be any better than the price of a similar sized pre-manufactured unit (please see this link: http://zurn.com/operations/lightcommercial/pdfs/specsheets/63802.pdf). The best price (excluding shipping) I have found is $515. I am unfamiliar with the price of sheet steel in the Sacramento area. Thanks in advance!!!

1) Yes, bite the bullet and get the ZT hoses. These lines are pliable compared to regular fuel hose, and will let the nozzle seat all the way up like they are supposed to, while the thicker hose will actually make the nozzle stick open (way rich). 2) IIRC, as long as the pistons drop at the same rate, everything will be ok. 3) It is safe to say that the minor investment in a vacuum unisync is a wise investment when you have carbs. 4) 2 1/2 turns down from full up is correct for a "starting point." 5-6) Not sure. The ZT video explains all the minor details with great clarity, although it is as boring and mind numbing as a catholic wedding. (VCRs are really cheap at the local Salvation Army/Goodwill) 7) I haven't had an experience of the balance tube gummed up. You may wish to visit an other Z site (CZC) for more info. on stock carb specs.

IMHO: 1) Did the new motor also come with a 280ZX alternator? There are adapters out there that enable the 240 wiring to be connected to a ZX alt for better voltage at lower RPMs, but you will need to disgard your voltage regulator (located on the pass. side wheel well in the engine bay, near your inspection light). PM me if you are looking to replace your old one. 2) same answer as #1. 3) already answered by roger.svoboda. 4) 240s are notorious for the throttle linkage sticking then suddenly releasing at inopportune times, like when your wife, in the passenger seat, is just beginning to sip her coffee. Not marriage condusive. Assuming you still are running SUs, you will need to lube the heck out of all the ball joints and adjust the threads on the linkage where it comes through the firewall. You may want to consider locating a longer linkage between the firewall and the rear carb. 5) If you are not using an electronic ignition, I won't be of much help. You might want to look into the 79-83 ZX dizzys, with the E12-80 module, which will work correctly with a 240 tach. See the pic for the wiring diagram. (lifted from ClassicZCars.com) Hope this helps!

Great info, Jon! Where are you at now, Stage 8.5?

Take a look at this PDF on 6061 T651 aluminum: http://www.espimetals.com/tech/aluminum6061-t651.pdf#search=%22aluminum%206061%20ultimate%20strength%22 the shear strength is 30KSI That's 30000 pounds/sqare inch. If your box cross sectional area is 1.5X 0.5, or .75 square inches, then the shear strength for your member (he he he) is 22500, or it would be able to withstand 22.5KSI. I don't think you will be seeing anywhere near this shear force on the member. Now, the 6 mounting bolts may be a different story, depending how the interior connection goes..

That one's been on Sac Craigslist for a while. I thought about it, but I have waaaay too many projects going right now.

This just posted in Sac Craigslist: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/202490294.html Man wants an L28 swapped into his 240.

Take a look at the Flywheel and clutch as well as the Transmission section of this page. It may be a little help: http://zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/engine.html

I have to watch my car because it's glove box lid comes out enough (although staying closed) and lets the light inside turn on. Also, if your clock is still getting current it may be putting a drain on the battery. I have had to replace my battery twice so far. The first was a NAPA battery that lasted 2 weeks. You might just have a crappy battery.

But can I get some opinions on this set I just found on Ebay, please? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-Front-LCAs-70-78-Zcar-Datsun-240z-280z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33581QQihZ001QQitemZ110023342779QQrdZ1 Thanks!!

If it's caught at an inspection station, they give you a no-pass and require a retest after parts are replaced/removed as the case may be. I think if the inspector is a hard-ass about it, he may report the vehicle, but I think that's as far as it goes...[edit] I stand corrected. I thought it wasn't harsh, though...[/edit] I have a friend who rebuilt a 79 chevy truck that was originally diesel, he put a very large 454 in it, and guess what? Since it was registered at diesel, no smog tests/certs required.

In the AISI grading sytem, the 300 (austenitic) series steels are set apart by their minimum carbon content. The 304 steel has a carbon content of 0.04%, while the 321 steel has 0.21% C. It's the same grading as the 400 (stainless) series. When you see an L or H just after the grade, it means that there is less or more than this target percentage (it's impossible to be exact, anything close counts in molten metal). For example, 304 has a range of 0.03 to 0.08% C. IIRC, these percentages are based on weight.

Yup you need an FSM. Try ebay???

How bout your grounds? Don't seem like much, but they are VERY important! Also - fusible links?

Consider this little slice: How about builders (either individuals or groups) applying for small HybridZ-backed sponsorships WHILE the cars are being built? i.e. Capital is needed to purchase a motor. Builder(s) beseech the HybridZ community who then determine the necessity and availability of said capital and award the (say) $500 to purchase the powerplant. This example doesn't specifically NEED to be about money. Parts donations would also be a possibility, if available. This way, the controlling interests are the builders, NOT HybridZ. HybridZ would be the donator, or silent backer, if you will.

I had that problem before I bought a new battery AND installed a different ignition switch. I also had the clicking sound from the passenger side firewall. You will have to undo the steering wheel clamshell and break open the ignition assembly mounted on the column. It's probably that the contacts are just plain worn out.