Racin_Jason

So I am about to put my dash back into the car with some outsourced guages. I'd like to clarify they work now if possible. Whats the easiest way to test them out of the car? I hope I got the needle pointers put back on the speedo and tach correctly. I wouldn't want to have to pull this dash again!

Morning bump

I'll more than likely be making an appearance this year. Any other San Diego area folks going?

My 700r4 was rebuilt by a guy who went out of buisness. I remember him telling me he installed a lockup kit that only required 1 wire to the plug on the tranny. I believe he told me that all I needed was a 12v line connected to 1 of the 4 pins. I never got any relays or other wiring. Fast forward almost 3 years. He is retired and moved away and I have NO idea which kit he installed, if I am missing anything or how to wire it up. How can I tell what is in it and how to properly wire it up? Thanks! Jason

Congrats on getting it to the track. I know you were having fun! lol Is it running right and you were 'ON' it the whole way? 113mph sounds a bit off for a 377 in a early 260Z (no offense intended I assure you). My turbo Neon weighs 3000+ with me in it and only makes 260ish to the wheels and I trap 109. Hence my thinking a much lighter car with a 377 in it should trap more than 4mph over me.

Bolted on for sure IMO. To ME flares stand out to much and look almost cartoonish when blended. They balloon out from the sleek body and look out of place to me. When they are bolted on it gives the no-nonsense racing look that we all know. They dont look like they are trying to impossibly blend in with the body..they are there for a reason! Bolted on they just look like they belong on a Zcar..to me anyways.

Sorry to see you have to give up the car when you are so close to completion. I understand that your head is in the right place but it still a shame. I wish you the best in your updated priorities. If I wasnt so far along on my POS Id be heading up there for a look I assure you. Jason

Wow you guys are giving me a chub with thee clean interiors. Heh and I was all proud at converting my stock guages to whitefaced and adding a dashcap. "Amatuer!"

I think you were definately wise to step away. One thing I have learned the hard way is not to buy anymore 'junk cars' -or- cars with lots of visable issues and most likely twice as many unforeseen ones. The later being my current V8Z project. Everytime I fix/rebuild one thing I find two more rig jobs or damage that need attention. Its a nightmare. I'd have walked away. Just to much work, money and headache to get it where you would want it Id think.

That is a fine example of a modified Zcar. Congratulations on owning such a beautiful car!

I asked because this is my first Z car and the stock fuel system was stripped off when I got the car. Therefore I have no idea if its merely an open tube or if there is an intank pump or.. If it is just a pickup tube then it sounds like I am in buisness.

I can feed the return straight into the original 5/16" feed with no mods to the stock configuration? That would be pretty convenient if so. Thanks Jason

I am about to finalize my pieced together fuel system. I originally tryed the upper vent tube on the top driver side for the return inlet but it doesnt flow freely. I am running my 3/8" feed from the drain plug hole. Where can I route my 3/8" return line into the stock 240z tank? Car is a carbed Chevy. Thanks much Jason

Geez, You might hear that spool just a lil'

Looks good bud! Very, very similar in design to what I have planned actually. I too will have dual 2.5" going to a single 3", through a dynomax bullet and out to a Superturbo muffler. I wanted it fairly tame to keep the local cops happy. So how does it sound?? I am quite curious due to it being almost identical to my future exhaust! Jason

Looks good! So whats your address so I can get some stuff done on MY car now??

I am rebuilding a house and have spent more time at both Lowes and Home Depot over the last months that I can count. I suppose one of these days I'll actually get into the stores to buy supplies.. Now where did I put my new wallet..

Jeez I just attempted my first spindle pin and I feel compelled to put my stamp on one of these threads as one of the poor bastards who has tackled a bad one. So much for CA cars not having majorly seized spindle pins. That sonuvabish was in there! After trying all standard and typical methods..i resorted to cutting the damn thing into 3 pieces through the spaces between the LCA and strut assembly. Tomarrow proves to be fun aswell..trying to get the pieces OUT.

Hmm. I show him as 2 weeks since the last post. I never bothered getting access to the lounge again after the website revamp, which I assume is where he posted last then. Cool, thanks for the info, Tim. Call me Dan. No reason other than just to say hey, yea Im still alive. Then you can tell me to fork off if ya want. Jason

Dan is a 'real-life' pal of mine and I am getting a bit concerned. I have been trying to reach him both by phone and PM for 2 weeks. I cannot get a hold of him and was hoping someone might know why. Feel free to PM me. I just want to touch base with him and make sure all is well. Jason

Well it is unanimous! I was hoping to get specific lengths since I am having an automotive shop attempt the cut and weld of the tubes. I am not able to weld (yet). But thats alright. I will order the inserts and mark the tubes myself for them to go by. So would the best way to judge how much is too be cut be simply dropping the new inserts into the tube, install the glad nuts, mark the piston with tape at its lowest exposed point...then pull the insert up against the bottom of the gland nut and again mark the lowest exposed point with tape...then simply measure the distance between the two marks? Any tips on cleaning out the strut tubes? I had a hell of time pulling one of the old inserts so I know its rusty inside. Jason

OK I know sectioning struts has been ran into the ground around here. Before you tar and feather me..yes i searched! I found enough conflicting info to make my eyes cross and to leave me unsure. So please help me before i develop a migraine My car- 240Z strut tubes Want to use MR2 front and 240Z fronts in the rear. Will be welding on perches for coilovers at the same time. My questions- The 240Z front inserts in the rear will require exactly 2 inches removed from the rear strut tube - correct? The MR2 inserts in the front will require somewhere between 1.6 and 2" from what I have found..I need the exact amount to remove from the front strut tube please. Thank you for any help Jason

Fronts are 17x8 25mm with a 235/45 tire. I did run a 245 at one time but Toyo doesn't make RA1's in a 245. First off thanks alot for the time youve taken to answer my questions. I am currently trying to pick new wheels and tires (again) for my V8Z and this info helps me an awful lot. OK I wanted to clear this with you. You stated your rears are 9" wide and (with stock Z hubs/brakes) the offset would be 25mm. By my math a 9" wheel (10" bead-to-bead) with 25mm offset would have a backspace of 6"...and this clears the strut tube? I thought 5" was the usual max on coilover cars with 5.5" being a rarity. So your fronts are 8" wide with 25mm offset..which would be 5.5" backspace in the front. I also thought that was too much. I am looking to get the max contact patch on the ground and your combo looks to be ideal. I just want to make sure Im clear on your backspacing and sizes before I use it for reference on a purchase for my Z. I have stock 71 hubs and brakes. I also have coilovers with 2.5" springs but my springs are 10". Im willing to go 8" in the rear to gain a 275 though Im hoping Ill be able to fit a 235 or 245 in the front with the 10" spring. But with my stock hubs you are saying a 6" rear and 5.5" front backspace will fit with 8" springs eh? Jason

OK hoke...what wheels are you running? Brand/size/offset?

Nice to see you back around these parts :wave: