BLOZ UP

Right now I just have it using the 24-2 (or 24-1-1 or whatever) wheel--the main one. I haven't hooked up the "cam" part yet, the second trigger. I already had it running on the OE wheel, so I just swapped it, changed the settings and "vroom". It's a 5v square wave signal that needs to be pulled up to 12v for MS.

Yeah, I had to reload a MSQ after the update to 3.2.1. I also replaced the trigger wheel with the new one from Matt. Probably shouldn't have done both right at the same time, but after a bit of comparing the changes between controller and my last MSQ, I got it all sorted out and it's been running fine. I do believe the old stim doesn't support all triggers.

Ahh yes, I see. That mount is on the frame rails. Man, if I weren't so stubborn I could have done that. I had this idea that I would want to swap back to the L28 when my VG blows up for less downtime.

I need a set of inner fenders for a 77 280z. All four corners. Let me know what you have. Used is okay as long as it's still in one piece.

I have... sort of. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnI5FXztv-k

Cool. Yeah it seems that more people are coming out of the woodwork with these swaps. I'm just finishing mine up here too. How did you get the alternator to fit? Is the motor raised enough? How high is the crank bolt from the crossmember? Mine is as lower as I could get it--the belt comes off with a bit of effort, the clearance is that tight.

Ah, and I foresee a fuel pump replacement in the near future.

So far so good. I can't tell the difference with the solid mounts. Everything appears to be holding together. I still need to put together the interior and get the car ready for state inspection. Only snag so far is that my exhaust is a bit too low.

Last bit of work.

The wheel is a 12-1, but twice over to "fool" megasquirt into thinking that it's a crank wheel (since the CAS rotates at half the crank speed). It's really a 24-2 wheel. Then there is the second slot on the wheel for the "cam" signal, which is just that. It's really a good idea since the CAS has the two sensors in it, I'm surprised no one thought of it earlier.

On my VG30E 280Z. I ended up with 300 trigger angle or tooth offset or whatever it is called now. I'm pretty sure I installed it "upright" according to the link you posted, Matt. Tried the 345 and I was running 50+ degrees of timing at idle (waaay passed the marks on the crank pulley). It didn't like it. Tried a wild guess of 300 and voila! it was spot on. I should play the lottery. Also, the VG30E CAS mount (and OE wheel) has two dowl/tabs that poke through the wheel. I took off that tab thing and ground down the one for which there wasn't a hole. Installed fine after that. I have to admit I'm a little OCD in some respects and having that gigantic tooth offset makes it hard for me to sleep. Why couldn't one of the #1 teeth be at TDC? And I was just joking about the sticker. Thanks. My timing values are a LOT more stable now.

Got mine too. Forgot how tiny these things are. Also got some warning sticker about how the wheels will kill me slowly and painfully...

Did you configure the lc-1's output? Are there any exhaust leaks? Did you calibrate the sensor in free air?

You're running the alpha code? I think 3.2 is now in release. I have some sensors (IAT, CLT, CAS) grounded in Megasquirt, then Megasquirt (via pins 14-19) and other sensors (LC-1) are grounded right next to the ECU. Try grounding the CAS at the ECU. The VE and spark tables I posted were only known good at idle. I had lean misfires as well under any load. You should change the VE table not your req fuel.

Got me two of them there rimz for my ride.

Yeah, what version of XP do you have? Pro or home? That might be it: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308421 What I was trying to get across is that you can take ownership of any file on any disk attached to the computer if you are an admin on that computer. That will solve your issues.

Attached are my settings for spark. I also have a VG30ET in my 280Z. I set the trigger angle to 60, and adjusted the distributor to match using a timing light. It's idling well at the moment, untuned anywhere else though. Stock timing is 10 degrees at idle. Cranking is set to 300rpm. I am using an aftermarket coil, MSD Blaster 2, and those coil specs are from MSD. I am using MS2-Extra 3.1, using the BIP373 ignitor, but I built the board a while ago and I trigger through JS10 (which is deprecated). I was wondering if you had any pictures of how you did your swap, etc. You should start one here.

Under the sharing tab of the folder?

If the fuel has been sitting it is probably not very good anymore. Like others said, try starting fluid.

Oops, too used to domain computers. In any folder, goto Tools>Folder Options: View Tab Scroll down and uncheck simple file sharing, apply, and reopen the dialog. It should show up then.

So you have the hard disk in another Windows machine? You should be able to take ownership off the user folders if you are logged in as an administrator on the new machine: Right click user's folder under Docs and Settings, select Properties. Open the security tab, click on advanced, then owner. Select your current username on that machine Then give your self full control and apply to all files and subfolders...

Yes, basic trigger. Do you have a build thread somewhere?

Ease of routing would be first priority. Trying to squeeze every last fraction of a percentage point of efficiency would be a waste, when you can spend that time and money elsewhere more effectively.

From what I understand, you can't tune anything but full-throttle runs on an inertia dyno. And even that is only after the fact from the data logs from the brief period the engine spends at each RPM and load cell. To do any real tuning, you must use a loading dyno to hold at any RPM and load to dial in that cell right there. And this is only after you drive it on the dyno to warm up the engine, transmission, rear end, etc. I used to work at a shop years ago, but I wasn't the tuner. I just got free dyno time and tuned my own cars, and a few customer cars. To those saying that dynos can't simulate real street conditions, that may be true that it can't match it identically, but the loading dynos can easily be setup to simulate worse than normal conditions, and that's what you should tune in. Hotter coolant, worse airflow to the radiator, worst case. That way when they come off the rollers and beat the **** out of it, you know they'll have a margin of safety--and can't come back complaining that you blew up their engine. Intertia dynos are only for max-power pulls. A lot of the eddy-current modules are being added to them now-a-days as people realize this. Also, the proper way to use knock control is to turn off knock control while tuning, but still watch the knock sensor output. Then tune without the knock retard kicking in (and offsetting your timing values) but still paying attention to knock, to get the best case (which may or may not be near the knock threshold), then when done they simply turn knock retard back on and let the computer retard timing as necessary on the street.

It mainly means that you should not create a MSQ on the laptop, disconnected from the ECU, then plug it in and try to burn everything at once. You can work off the base tune on the ECU itself, that is there when the ECU's firmware is first flashed from B&G. It's just so you can avoid having one obscure setting within some obscure menu asploding your megasquirt.