BLOZ UP

Extremes of the AFR gauge can be misleading. Rich misfires will show up as lean due to the unburned gas in the exhaust. If it is misfiring at all the AFR gauge cannot be trusted.

Replaced pump. Ran richer. Refueled. Richer still. Car requires quite a bit less req_fuel (injector constant closer to matching actual injector size). I have to double check my timing and base fuel pressure, but it looks like my fuel problems are on the way to being solved. Bad/too old gas and a non-flowing pump. Bask in the circus of fittings!

If adding throttle doesn't help it start faster, add more cranking PW. Otherwise, try lowering it. EDIT: Also, retarding your crank timing can help as well. I've had my MS2 VGs start in under 1 second.

It was detonating louder than the rattles. Plus the detonation doesn't sound like a rattle, its very distinct. They don't fly Brice all over the world to tune race cars because hes just "ok" at tuning, take some advise from the guy. Id do a leak down so you know where you stand. If you need some help making pulls let me know. Alright, alright. I'm going to need to put it on a dyno to tune cell by cell shortly.

I'm planning on getting the 6758 unless my current T3/T04E (.63 hot, 57 trim cold) ends up working better than it has so far, when I tune it properly. I'm thinking my current one will be too slow for my autocross needs.

Enable the boost cut in MS, set it a little higher than your wanted psi, and then you can safely floor it without fear.

Ditto. Probably too lean if the throttle doesn't do anything.

As many inches as possible? Near the axles you can be, and usually have to be, a little lower. The middle of the car is usually what rubs, as you travel over bumps. I just fixed my exhaust, it dips down near the transmission crossmember, goes back up into the tunnel, then back down under the rear suspension. What was once rubbing all the time is now fixed. Now my tires need fixing.

You can use the piston and rods from a DE on the E, but not just the pistons or just the rods.

Huh. I did not know that. I'll definitely work on the tune. I've already made the < 100 kPa areas nearly identical to what the stock ECU has. One likely contributor to my problems is that my 1 year old fuel pump just died the other day. I suspected it earlier but my fuel pressure never dropped, until now. But if it has been on it's way...

Because there are so many rattles at various RPMs, he'd have to be pretty good to single out engine detonation. That's very true. But I made sure that the tune was rich and retarded. The graphs from my datalog and the dyno confirm that it was 11.5 or richer.

That sucks. Like others have said, if they rear-end you, it's their fault. They should have been following a safe distance at all times. That includes following a distance where if the car in front of you mis-shifts, brakes hard, explodes, implodes, etc., you have enough time to react and avoid. Period. The only case I know that's an exception is fraud (people slamming on brakes just to get insurance/slamming on brakes to "teach a lesson"), and those are insanely hard to prove. I wouldn't say anything to them or their insurance, other than "She hit me." Even in this perfect world of the officer's (DWG?), if your car were inspected it could have had a mechanical failure after passing the inspection. Either way, it's not a moving violation and can't really affect this case a whole lot, whatever the officer's opinion. Yet another reason for autonomous vehicles. Average Joe doesn't give a **** if your car is handbuilt, they just want to talk on the phone and sip their Starbucks while they tediously drive their 5000 lbs. vehicle at 60mph. "Oh, oops I hit you! Oh, just drop it off at the repair shop, what's the big deal?"

Is that one that Steven garages?

Looks good. After viewing before and after logs and a couple dyno runs of a car with a hot air intake and cold air intake, I moved mine to the front of the car. IATs are now 20 degrees (F) less all around. PS - I don't drive in the rain.

I went to the dyno earlier this year and made 240hp at 18psi. Dyno guy swore he heard lots of detonation. I think he's BSing because I have, what I think, is really conservative timing. I gave him the benefit of the doubt since he's been doing this for a while and has worked with a lot of Zs. I pulled a couple degrees in the high load areas. The car would also not rev more than 5200 rpms on the dyno. Can't say if it does that on the road, haven't been watching the tach while flooring it. Anyway, so I finally got some time today and did a compression test. Got it warmed up (actually I went out and beat on it on low boost), opened the throttle and let it churn for about 3 compresses (judging from compression tester jerks) on each cylinder. I did some cylinders twice to confirm. What I saw surprised me: 157 170 (first time was 175) 155 167 160 175 (first time was 175) I get single digit MPG. I make zero power. It reaches ~75% DC on my 550cc injectors on low boost (170hp). It smokes a lot--mostly on decel (oil burning, valve/valve seals?) I don't see or hear any massive boost leaks--because it would have to be massive to vent 200HP worth of air, right? The last test I did was eons ago, before the motor swap I believe, it was about 140 each cylinder and then one was 90. Can't say if I did it at WOT or even warmed it up. Too long ago. So what gives? Will really retarded timing lose that much power? I don't see how valve seals can vent that much. I ask because I have a JY engine of unknown condition (in true Z31 style), so not sure if it's worth the hassle of swapping it in if I can just replace valve seals/increase timing/whatever. Here's the timing I ran on the dyno. 18psi = 230kpa 12psi = 180kpa 9psi = 160kpa I also may have a very restrictive exhaust. I have a resonator that Summit advertised as "straight-thru" but it is actually a chambered POS. 1.5" or so tubes within it that it has to navigate through. I have some Vibrant replacements. Not sure how that results in 200hp less though. Not sure why I posted in the Newb forum either.

What exactly is an American HP number? DynoJet, Dyno Dynamics, Mustang, SuperFlow, etc. all can SAE correct. DynoJets, which I assume you are referring to also have load cells and all the fancy features now too. If you actually read the publications on dynos from the SAE, you'd have noticed SAE 1349, which specifies to not use correction factors on forced induction cars: "For example, boosted engines with absolute pressure controls shall not be corrected for ambient barometric pressure". And assuming that a dyno operator on any dyno hasn't specified that the car's at 35,000 feet, the numbers you get from all the different makes and types of dynos are going to be similar. The VG33ET can deliver 400HP easily. I made 390HP (on a complete joke and unreliable dynojet!) on a stock VG30. I was also the dyno operator. I'm pretty sure it was accurate. It's accurate enough to tune on, which is all that really matters.

"Why am I upside down?" "You are upside down because you have no business on a racetrack" ....

What wheel and tire sizes were you using?

I also have a CLSD from a Z31 that I'll put in eventually. I doubt the Z31 driveshaft will be anywhere near the right length. What should work is swapping the flange off of the Z31 differential with the S(1)30 one. You should be able to use the same S(1)30 driveshaft.

I mounted the 5 speed 71C in place of the 4 speed 71b (280Z) transmission. Just swapped the isolator to the 280Z one and bolted it up. The transmissions almost identical, so the 280Z driveshaft just fit. The key factor being the length of the portion of the transmission from the mount to the end of the tail shaft was the same as the 71b.

Meh, I guess the 280ZX is different, but I had problems with the heater pipes, both of them, when I installed the engine. Looks great. Look forward to seeing more.

These swaps seem to be getting more and more popular. You'll also have to modify or remove the heater pipes from the back of the intake and valley. I just had to cut and rotate them each about 30 degrees to fit against the firewall. I was able to fit the stock hood latch on the 280Z with a front entry intake (Maxima), but I can't say if the S130 is the same.

I just use silicone pooky on everything except the heads.

I've had trouble with some rebuilt parts, but most part stores have a "lifetime" warranty of somesort. My experience has been it either fails within the first 10 minutes, or just keeps working like an OE unit. A pain if it does fail but the replacement is free.

I've never seen fenders this nice. I'm scuured.