BLOZ UP

Where's the welder and where's the breaker box? For me, both were in the garage so I shifted a couple circuits around and added a 50 amp two phase breaker in and made a plug right next to it. Didn't have to open the wall either, since I just put it right below and right of the breaker box on the next stud. I could feed all the wires through one of the outlets on the box.

That's a nice one. Better than my Diversion. I haven't reached the capacity of mine yet, and I've made motor mounts, collectors, exhaust, intake piping. All normal car stuff. If I ever do I'll get a Dynasty and/or a water cooler, because the air cooled torch doesn't last long and it's kind of bulky. I asked the same thing about helmets: http://forums.hybrid...-you-recommend/ I ended up getting a Miller Professional Series, and am happy with it. Be sure to get a respirator for the welding fumes as well. Chromium 6 is bad. And a full jacket, UV B & C are bad too. I have a local Airgas that provides me with Argon, can't remember the cylinder size (middle size, largest that fits in my car) but it's 25 bucks a refill (after you buy a bottle), and Home Depot also has them if you need some on the weekend, but it's a few bucks more. You also have to buy their bottle--the guys at Airgas won't take other people's bottles to refill. This site has lots of disorganized information: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ Start with plate and just get arcs started and consistent, then add filler, then try a joint. It takes a while to get the feel of how much heat, distance, angle, and speed you need for whatever thickness and joint. And start with steel since aluminum is more expensive and has to be a lot cleaner, and the heat dissipation is something you have to consider as well.

How would you duplicate the retention in that case? I say just paint your grease caps.

http://www.miata.net...e/tirecalc.html http://www.1010tires...ecalculator.asp http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp There's also one somewhere to give you recommended sizes, but I can't find it.

I have the same wheels, 513 in 16x8. I was also told by the seller that my 225/55's wouldn't fit, which they do. They rub on the rear only slightly on hard bumps. Another brand of 225/55s could fix that. Anyway, he was right about the center cap not fitting. The best solution I have seen is to paint the spindle bolt cover the same color as the wheels.

From a VG30.

Thanks. I just hope my flywheel never explodes. A small update. Getting crowded. In an attempt to change one of the outlets on the radiator, I managed to fubar the whole thing, and I've ordered another one. Well, actually it wasn't really fubar'd, but it wasn't worth reselling. I just got an aluminium eBay one. It's a stock replacement one, downflow now and it should be able to fit both of the fans I currently have since the core is larger. I wish it would fit them as pushers since that would save me some room behind the radiator, but I'll figure it out later. I'm going to stop posting so often here and use our local club's forums to post instead: http://www.cowtownzclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&p=47

Change fuel.

I, for one, dislike revving my VG past 5,500 RPM or so. They aren't really high-revving motors...

If he lets off it's not wrong. Looks like a slow lift.

Doesn't even need that, my main objective is just getting the 3 sections of pipe cut correctly.

Hmmm I'll see if my machine shop wants to do it...

Gave up on that alternator mount since it was fugly and a lot more work than necessary. Went back to my original (the OEM) mount: Started on the passenger side manifold: Made a crappy collector using a chop saw. Not really motivated to make another. My chop saw reeaaally didn't like cutting at that angle. Did some cleanup, and fab'd a coolant pipe up. Alternator/motor mounts are okay for now. Fuel lines have been completed and pressure tested. Intake needs some more grinding to fit around the fuel rails.

So did the guy come down?

I spent an entire weekend measuring, chopping, grinding, fitting, tacking, and it looks like ****. I figure this is one part where it's worth it for someone else to make. I've seen all kinds of 3-1's for sale online, but not out of 1-1/4" pipe. Basically, I need a 1-1/4" SCH10 3-1 splayed merge collector. 9 degree merge angle, 6" long primaries. Will eventually go to 2" SCH10 pipe. Just needs to be tacked enough to ship to me. See pics below. Let me know your fee and shipping to 76016.

You just need two bolts. Steel is pretty strong as long as it's not an impact force. You are putting a lot of load sideways on those bolts. Not good. I would do it on the side of the block. Ac compressor mount holes, etc. I've lifted a mod motor longblock out with two m8 bolts.

It will still drain, it will just pool up a bit.

I may have exaggerated on the "forever" part.

Looks great! Even in pastel!

Alamo Autosports is the best place I know of. But it would sit there forever because they are busy. The DE is a tight fit on the sides. Get a TB48 and make eleventy billion horsepowers.

I can never get mine to upgrade without enabling debug output.

Weird, I just got back from LA and the first post I read originates from there... I have 225/55/16 on 16x8+0, no rubbing except on the fronts at full lock, and the rear fenders occasionally. BFG g-force T/A

The VG30E is a proven engine. Crappy flowing heads, sketchy stock oiling system, but you can remedy it a bit. http://vg30et.com/members.html 400rwhp is possible--and reliable--on the stock bottom end. 500 and 600 (see above) are also possible. The VG33E(+T) is where it's at though. And the later 88+ turbo 5 speeds were internally almost identical to the Z32 trans. Earlier ones are T5s, which I consider strong as well but other people on the z31 forums say they asplode. The NA trans is also strong, it's a Nissan one. The E has a 6 bolt flywheel, DE has 8.

Could use some polishing.

There are only certain tools that could cause body harm by themselves. For those, it's obvious to buy a better product. But how much you pay doesn't always mean a better product. There's a certain point where spending money gives you diminishing returns in quality. Snap-On is one of the companies that's passed that point--for most of their tools. I get almost all of the basic sockets and extensions at Harbor Freight. Say what you will about HF, but a lot of the simple tools there have lifetime warranties. Some of the ratchets are "OK", but most of mine are from Sears. I have a couple Snap-On ones. I also have one slightly wobbly extension that Snap-On had and I couldn't find anywhere else at the time--and I love it. While you usually get what you pay for, some companies are just milking that attitude. I also have a roller cabinet from HF, that's been great. I've only had it for a couple years, but no signs of it failing. I've heard stories though. Don't bother with anything without ball-bearing slides, but get something cheaper than a $10,000 Snap-On scam.