BLOZ UP

The stainless will heat soak too, it just takes longer. I think the heat the air picks up from the piping itself is going to be minimal--or at least not worth rerouting everything to try and ensure it never sees warm air. It would probably just be easier and more effective to get a slightly taller intercooler to make up for the difference. What I don't understand are people who have their compressor inlets right next to the radiator. That's just adding 30+ degrees to the intake temps for no reason.

I never liked MIG. I tried it a few times, but much preferred to learn on the TIG. And so I did, eventually bought a TIG for my own work, and never looked back.

I'd love to build a little shifter kart/a-mod/whatever car someday.

Miller Diversion 180 or whatever the Hobart equivalent is. Basically a Miller Dynasty without the adjustability. Around $1500 to your door. HF Start, AC/DC, 180Amp.

I hear Nick's Garage is the place to go.

You used to just use the same software for the dyno. Appears there's another link though: http://www.dynojet.com/downloads/zip/7.5.2_Install_.zip

I have a '77 Cali ECU. I also have a wiring harness, but it is cut all up.

I've got unlimited free flatbed towing up to 50mi a time through Hagarty.

reliably interfacing with sliders and controls that need 10 ft-lbs of force, while keeping it clean looking is my concern.

That's a very good question. I am working on swapping a maxima motor in. I have all the supplies, and I'll have some time friday and early saturday. It shouldn't take that long... but I have my doubts. I might go in the daily if I can't finish.

I've got a 3 row eBay. Has a small leak on the lower passenger side end tank. Good thing I have a welder.

Yeah I didn't really have a PD controller at all, except the P part. Hm, worked well! Working on it now....

injector drivers went out in flames.

I have a burnt up one!

Done-ish but needs a new motor. Current one has low compression, among other things. I sort of lowered it even more on the dyno. I'm working on a maxima motor swap. Slowly.

Maybe they would have. Lots of people like to nit-pick on there if your setup isn't 110% full race spec. Sometimes I forget if it's the Z31 board or the GT3 board. That dual 3" looks cool. Where's you wastegate dump going to go? Wait... where is your wastegate?

The proportional part is normalized to percent since the distances can vary from 500 to 8000 or so, and I figured this was an easy way to keep the output within the range of 0-100. Actually, I think I just thought of how to fix it.... I'm doing a PID of distance... I need to control speed. And before setting the output, I can make the desired speed a function of percent done. That should do the ramp up and down for me, and leave the PID to keeping the motors sync'd. Hmm... Now I need to drive all the way back to the lab....

AFAIK, The ARP studs can help better with keeping the head from lifting and are stronger overall.

Any engineers out there know how I can have a PD/PID controller ramp up slowly initially? I am controlling two motors and I need it to not just jump up to the PWM specified by the current difference between distance and targetDistance (and speed), which causes jerk on my robot: pwm = Kp * (targetDistance - currentDistance)/targetDistance + Kd * (targetSpeed - currentSpeed)/targetSpeed Do I need the integral part to do this? I thought that's just to avoid overshoot. Right now it hardly ever overshoots--maybe 1-2 motor encoder clicks, which is more than fine for my application. However, the motors jerk on start up which kind of throws it off trajectory. I tried changing it to PID of speed, distance, accel but it did exactly what I thought it would do. Kept on driving past the goal. My goal is to arrive at a certain distance. Although keeping the speed in check would be nice--without limiting the PWM, since the motors don't go the same speed given the same PWM value. I could think of a couple ghetto ways to ramp it up slowly based on time--maybe, but surely there's a more common, elegant solution?

Looks like the same car wreck that's photo'd in the latest SCCA mag.

I don't know any Nissan, or import really, that uses stretch bolts. You are allowed to reuse them. As long as they aren't corroded, pitted, rusted, whatever, I reuse them. If they are, I find a used one in my stash that isn't. Never had this happen. Man, I thought exhaust studs were bad, must suck to have to take the head off again and get a new head gasket.

I'm pretty syre they were 420CC injectors from a Mitsubishi. Couldn't tell you what the other ones are or aren't.

It's only going to be a 500-750 RPM shift in powerband.

If it's backfiring it's probably too rich. Be sure your wideband is calibrated (both the controller itself and setup correctly within MS). Adjust your req_fuel so you have ~25 VE at idle.

Yeah, assuming you have no misfires, it sounds like you have a untuned AFR table and O2 correction turned on.