BLOZ UP

Fixed some of the exhaust leaks. Manifolds line up now, from just 60 seconds of on time.... I guess they aren't that misaligned to begin with. You can kind of hear the beginning's of it's exhaust note when I rev it up. 350Z?

Lots of exhaust leaks, but it runs.

He's fixed it.

And his Tomcat server has debugging on, so it's displaying his API key and yahoo market password. I've emailed him.

This uses the optical sensor in the 82-83 turbo diistributors, or the VG30E's optical sensor.

Thanks. This motor has 60% compression, so I don't trust it will last that long. Although, maybe since it has lower compression, it will! Either way I got a CLSD and other parts with it so I couldn't pass up a running and driving parts car. I have a VG33 waiting to be built, only then can I, "let the carnage begin". So, I will try and limit it to 300HP for now.

It's on the intake.

Small update: Finished the manifolds: How they'll look installed: "Occupy Engine Bay": Crowded: Manifolds are at the machine shop and getting flattened, and a hole put in the secondaries for the wastegate tube. I'd like to put a flex tube on the secondaries, but I am having trouble sourcing one short enough (3"). Otherwise it's just some oil, coil wiring, and cleanup away from starting.

I just realized I would need two of these. One for my L, one for the VG.

Thanks, I'd welcome any constructive criticism, these are my first tubular manifolds. I've made only log manifolds before out of carbon steel. I will see if I can find a ~2-3/8" flex pipe. Any recommendations on cleaning out all the grinding debris from the inside? Can I just tell the machine shop to dunk it? Or spray brake cleaner/acetone all in it?

So, to follow up... [bracing myself for any criticism...] I finished my manifolds. I was using 3/32 thoriated on one side, but switched to 1/16" and had better results. I used various sized gas lenses, finally settling on a #10 (!) with about 15CFH flow rate. I could not do continuous 90 degree beads on a lot of the joints like johnc suggested, most are 30-45 degrees. I had what seemed the least amount of heat when I did a little on each joint at a time, rather than completely welding one joint before going to the next. This also made it faster since I moved the weldment into position and then welded all the joints that I could get to. I also noticed that adding more tacks before welding greatly reduces expansion problems later on. I ended up having about 2" (!) of tungsten sticking out and 17CFH on the hard to reach areas, with as much tape and argon as I could shove in to the area. I had a couple mishaps where I didn't get enough shielding gas, but by increasing the postflow (it's a fixed amount so I have to tap the pedal to get more), I could keep the bead and the tungsten clean. I used ~10CFH pre-welding purge for one minute (or more on the larger pieces), then ~5CFH while welding. I say "~" because it's a Harbor Freight regulator and it seems to be going a lot faster than it indicates. Those low flow rates (at least) are probably inaccurate. Anywho... I made the driver's side manifold first, then the secondaries, then the passenger side. I should have done the secondaries last, duh, but refitting after the manifolds moved was not too bad, luckily. I made the driver's side collector myself, and it was a lot more work than I thought, with the tools I don't have. So, I had Adam at Columbia River make the passenger side one, and was very satisfied (only $120 bucks!). His collector was a lot smoother on the interior, among other things... Before you say it, yes, I plan on bracing the turbo with a heim joint. But I have a question, where should I place a flex joint? Do I really need one? About the only place I can see to place one is after the passenger v-band (as in, on the turbo side), where there's about 4 inches of straight.

That's what I did. In my garage my fuse box lies, and I just added it to the closest stud. Ran the wire behind it and in to an empty hole in the fuse box. Tapped a 50A breaker in to each phase of the power, and done. I also kept it at the same height the other plugs were at. Wire gauge is a step up the required capacity. Nothing really wrong with it but I doubt it meets all the codes. Total cost: $30

You'll be limited to output amperage. I don't have enough experience to say how much though, whether it's linear or not. CS Major, not EE.

The DC is for output, how long it can hold the output current. But it looks like it does around 40A, so you'd need a 50A circuit.

Did you set the trigger angle in TunerStudio? You need to set that, and align the distributor itself, and check with a timing light to verify that both are the same. Also be sure that your distributor is installed correctly, although I believe the L's have a key to prevent it from going in the wrong way.

It does if you want your intake and exhaust valves opening at the right time.

Yes, it will lower the value if the buyer is interested at all in originality. But like mentioned above, depends on the market you are selling it in. Cars are rarely investments. And old Japanese car is a totally different market then old American cars, and different still from any new car. You won't see me buying one any time soon, but gasoline powered vehicles use most of the energy making heat. Electric cars use most of the energy moving the car. Nuclear power is the safest (fewest fatalities) per KWh, by far. If you plan on driving the car at all, modify it for you, not the next buyer. I've never bought a car that I kept "clean" and original for resale. I drive mine in to the ground.

I used the OE EFI relay and it powers the injectors only when the ignition is on.

Man I've been looking for a decent BT adapter. I tried one of the plug-in ones from Fry's without success (Linux). I'll have to try that.

Do you have pics of this crank pulley? Never heard of that.

I just picked up 6 Z32 COPs, but I need that stupid ignition box.

GT5 and 4 have the Z32 and Z33. I think they both have the Z31 as well. One of them does, anyway. Can't remember.

You talking about the bias resistor? It's installed on the MS board. Systems built for GM sensors have a 2490 Ohm bias resistor installed. Usually. http://www.bgsoflex.com/v22/assem.html - Step 53 explains it.

So should we pay LEOs to pull someone over and judge if they are capable of talking on their cell phones while driving? How do you test for this? How do you make a reliable test for this?