BLOZ UP

Any details? I'm guessing it will be VG compatible by default, but just checking.

Going through Argon like water.

Where do I send my money? Very interested in one as long as it's compatible with the VG30E dizzy.

My mostly stock 280Z, with compression in the 120 (psi) range across the board, felt incredibly slow. I bet it was lower than 100hp. Let's see, roughly estimating from the lower compression, assuming stock was 150hp, I get 105hp. Anyway, it's one of the slowest cars I've ever driven. I have Tokico springs and new shocks, but I haven't driven it hard enough in corners to really tell you anything. I'd say it was only slightly faster than the 3 cylinder VW Polo I drove over the summer in Europe. However, like the posters above, the long sloping hood and seating position definitely put a smile on my face every time.

You don't even have to tell them you did anything, or what?

Yes, but you need to point it at the number one contact on the distributor (cap).

Are you sure you used cylinder #1? since number 2 fires 60 degrees later.

I really, really, wish LEOs around my area would enforce this. I'm with slownrusty, there are tons of people now that get these done, usually with the color way too high, and they blind everyone. It doesn't matter where you aim them, the glare is the problem when you put them in non-projector housings. I'm tempted to veer in to their lanes when someone with a conversion is oncoming, and blame anything that happens on their headlights.

That's because they are cars on the line-up. But really, why is this? Because they share parts with other Nissan models? I think if you include the 280ZX and 300ZX (Z31 and Z32) as Z cars, then you have to accept the Z33 and Z34. The Z31 shares many parts with many other vehicles of the time. Purists will tell you that anything after the 280Z (or 240Z!) are not Z cars. Less purist people will tell you that the S30, Z32 and up are the only Z cars and that the S130 and Z31 were "mistakes". It varies a lot depending on who you talk to, but they were all sold as Z cars. I'm not sure what makes something like the Z31 elusive, especially since the Z31 sold the most in the states, had the worst suspension and handling, and was quite lethargic compared to the other series. ZR8ED has quite a lot of experience with Zs, I believe. Also, your inflation figures are a little exaggerated. And the Z32 was closer to 40k back in the 90s, so 60k in today's money. I think the Z33/34 feel like Zs, it's just that they are new Zs, so you don't have that suspense back in your mind where you are wondering if somethings going to break. What would be really, really, cool would be to swap a VQ in to it, like a couple other people on this board has. The VQ has proven itself quite the successor of the VG. That's a little condescending; care to explain what's so mysteriously complicated about it? Did you read about how ZR8ED already started, completed, drove for 10 years, and sold a VG30ET S30?

You could with the optional outputs from MS-Extra/MS3. There's a small transistor circuit you have to build (depending on output port used, the FIDLE can drive up to a 1 amp relay), to be able to drive a relay to open it. The type of relay will depend on how the cutout functions. I believe they are usually just +12v, open, -12v close. See: http://www.msextra.c...are.htm#outputs You can use up to any two of the variables to control it. So, yes, MAP > 100 and coolant > 180 = CUTOUT However, if you don't have a MAF, your tune will be off. You could integrate dual fuel/timing maps at the same cutoff points as well.

More stuff. Driver's side doesn't fly, will need to be redone.

The highest HP figure (to the rear wheels) on an NA VG30E I have ever seen is Russ, and he made 227HP. And that took quite a lot of work, IIRC. There's also someone on Z31Performance making similar power, but that's it. 250HP is a lot from those motors, without a turbo. I would keep the L, maybe turbo it, and spend more time driving it instead of swapping engines. I say this as I am 6 months in to my VG30ET->S30 swap, and getting anxious to get it driving again.

Yeah, the original signal is a A/C pulse, the cluster converts it to 0-5v DC.

Is 200 degrees hot for the SR?

Yes, very helpful. I too lost a bunch of those stupid things, and knew there had to be a place to get a bunch of ones for cheap. Ones that are better then the non-retaining mechanism on the OE fasteners.

There's a bypass on the VG33 that you have to plug. You also have to add a bypass on the 3.3L oil pump's filter location. Or loop.

Alot of the rubber/rubber like core AN lines still emit fumes, get some with Telfon/PTFE.

I think on most diesels, everything is controlled by the injectors. So, your gas pedal really is a gas pedal.They don't have throttle plates for that same reason. Also they run eleventy billion psi on the fuel lines.

This appears to be the only picture of them installed on my car. I had them working before I started my engine swap.

I have these, almost a direct swap: http://www.amazon.co...s&zgid=15736071 It requires making a little ground wire from the horn to the chassis, but that's about it.

I've heard it's "bad", and that's about it. Corky Bell also says it's "bad". I'd take his advice and angle it in. Plus it will look like a wastegate to downpipe connection instead of some boiler system. Yeah, I've seen some on Summit. I thought about the same thing you have.

Are you notching your wastegate tube and downpipe? Why can't you just 45 degree (or more) bend and notch that in?

I took mine off with 2 12mm or 14mm box end wrenches. You will need to put the rear wheels up, and take it out of gear to turn the driveshaft and loosen one or to bolts at a time. Each time pulling the handbrake to keep it from turning. I was able to get the bolts off and on without removing the sway bar

Which meet where?

Not a bad idea, what with all the building and electrical codes you are supposed to comply with.